A Guy in New York » Blog Archive » This Week in Reviews

This Week in Reviews – September 30, 2005

Each Friday, A Guy In New York publishes “This Week in Reviews (TWIR),” with quick links to New York City restaurant reviews and mentions from the previous seven days in blogs, magazines, and newspapers.
Steve Cuozzo says “Restaurant reviews are over. History. Outta here. It’s time to report on restaurants in a new and better way, and this is why: More than ever before, reviews have a shorter shelf life than unpasteurized milk. If you’re one of the millions of New Yorkers who rely on them for guidance, you’re likely mystified – and annoyed – by some of your recent dining-out adventures. … So from now on, The Post will tell you what’s going on without pretending that what’s true this week will be valid for all time – or even for the next month. Starting today, we’re going to tackle restaurants in a different way.” … read the whole thing … and then contrast with the article by Pascale Le Draoule, “Michelin rates the Apple” … the Michelin Guide is coming to NYC in November …

NYC Metroblog went to Public … “the service was flawless.” … 210 Elizabeth Street, between Spring and Prince Streets, 212-343-7011 [MenuPages | Citysearch]
Salli Vates liked the miso soup … at Komegashi … “salmon, yellowtail and yellowfin tuna were tasty and tender, and the accompanying olive-anchovy tapenade was addictive.” … 928 Broadway, at 22nd Street, 212-475-3000 [MenuPages | Citysearch]
A Guy In New York declares the best roti canai in NYC is at Sanur … 18 Doyers Street, 212-267-0088
Plate of the Day ate at The Friar’s Club … “rich wood paneling and ornate imported Italian marble” … “food was excellent and impressive” … members only, 57 East 55th Street, 212-751-7272 [Citysearch]
slice actually reviews the Nyfork, aka the “pizza fork” … which he tested at Franny’s … “The dim light of the overhead fixture glinted off its tines. The cutting wheel jiggled ever so slightly on its axle, broadcasting a faint but satisfying jingle of metal on metal.” …
Peter Meehan recommends that “anyone with the change to spare and an interest in heightened cholesterol levels should go for the Mo burger” at Mo Pitkin’s House of Satisfaction … “Chopped Liver and Chilies on Avenue A” … the shrimp cocktail, “often a throwaway at other places, is worthwhile” … 34 Avenue A, at Third Street, 212-777-5660 [MenuPages | Citysearch]
A Hamburger Today has a quote from Mike Piazza, catcher for the Mets … about pizza and hamburger … and “Schnäck has opened a branch inside the Brooklyn Lyceum.” … [Citysearch]
Cynthia Kilian writes “After the low-carb craze caused some restaurants to ditch the traditional pre-dinner bread basket, loaves are back in the limelight on some of the most buzzed-about menus in town.”
Forbes gives the green GO to … Circus … “Delicious feijoada, churrasco and vegetarian stew.” … 132 East 61st Street, between Lexington and Park Avenue, 212-223-2965 [MenuPages | Citysearch] … La Masseria … “Favorites: fritto misto, bianca salad … and tagliolini with lobster” … 235 West 48th Street, 212-582-2111 [MenuPages | Citysearch] …
Andrea Strong visited Thor … “the menu at Thor, which is nicely priced on the modest side, is just too large” … “the winners—a steamed red snapper … the duck” … “The one clunker was the poached lobster” … “to me the reason to go back to Thor is for the desserts” … 107 Rivington Street, at Ludlow Street, 212-475-2600 or 646-253-6700 [MenuPages]
Rob Patronite asks, “Which foods are worth the wait” … wait time vs quality at 7 places … Tomoe Sushi not worth an 81 minute wait … Sarabeth’s not worth a 55 minute wait … Shake Shack worth a 37 minute wait? “An emphatic yes for the best burger in town” … Burger Joint worth a 26 minute wait … Magnolia Bakery not worth a 25 minute wait “if it were the last cupcake on Earth” … DiPalo’s worth an 18 minute wait: “the Parmigiano-Reggiano is top-notch, the ricotta divine” … Chipotle worth a 10 minute wait: “Still, nearby Pampano Taqueria’s tacos are better, but the wait there is unpredictable.” …
Gael Greene gave a quick review of Centrico … “The pow of his mole poblano overwhelms perfectly cooked pork tenderloin, but on another night, the spare ribs are first-rate.” … 211 West Broadway, at Franklin Street, 212-431-0700 [MenuPages | Citysearch]
Tables for Two gives a mixed review of Convivium Osteria … “a passable mackerel seviche” … “the enormously pleasing shrimp-and-béchamel fritters” … “the attention-grabber of the menu is the Niman Ranch rib eye for two, which comes on a great wooden slab, oozing juices—the seasoned crust is a bit overbearing, and the meat can be a little too marbled, but it’s still satisfying.” … 68 Fifth Avenue, at St. Mark’s Place, Brooklyn, 718-857-1833 [Citysearch | NYPress | geegaw | openlist]
Robert Sietsema went to Mom Mam 1 Thai Cuisine … and liked the “yum nam sod, a steaming heap of ground pork, tomatoes, red onions, coriander leaf, and—crunch, crunch—peanuts, shellacked with a tart dressing of lime juice, ginger, lemongrass, and green chiles spewing fire (but only if you request “very spicy”). Underneath lurks a bed of shredded pork skin, an ingredient you’re more likely to find in Vietnamese restaurants, and a detail omitted from every other version of this Thai classic I’ve seen in Queens.” … curry puffs … “a distinguished green papaya salad” … “Mam’s version [of pad thai] is elemental, a few simple ingredients that, with a final squeeze of lime, add up to gustatory elation.” … sounds wonderful … 77-05 Woodside Avenue, 718-672-5266
Frank Bruni gave 3 stars to Nobu 57 … “Nobu is to Matsuri and Koi as McDonald’s is to Wendy’s: a tutor and template.” … “most of the food was terrific” … “the sushi was exemplary” …
jules at The Bruni Digest looks at Frank Bruni’s review of Nobu 57 … “Nobu 57: Spankin’ it all over town!” … “after all this exhausting work, including a torrid night of sequentially banging both Nobu and Newbu, Frank concludes that Matsuhisa still has the original magic, three stars’ worth.” …
a brooklyn life reviews Nobu 57 in 5 words … “Three words: Not worth it.” … 40 West 57th Street, 212-757-3000 [MenuPages | Citysearch]
David Rosen also went to Nobu 57 and gives it a mixed review … “Getting a couple of reservations at Nobu 57 proved as cumbersome as ever. We succeeded, thanks to a good dose of luck and persistence. However, the reward more than justified the effort.” … “Among the hot dishes, the widely imitated glossy-looking black cod with miso and the rich arctic char with moro miso are still winners. On the contrary, the tough squid ‘pasta’ with garlic sauce and the salty halibut cheeks in the same repetitious preparation are clearly losers.” …
Adam Platt went to Nobu 57 with two friends … “After a taste of the chef’s much-praised creamy spicy crab, they rendered their initial verdict. ‘This crab reminds me of something you’d get at Chili’s,’ one of them said. ‘Is this food always so salty?’ asked the other” … “Classic Japanese sushi has never been a Nobu strong point, and it’s no different here.” … “The best of the bunch, even the Oregon social workers agreed, was a $26 serving of very tender, very fresh king crab” …
Nina Lalli, in “The Meaning of Mulberry” .. says that the Festival of San Gennaro “proves if you’re south of Canal for dinner, stick with Chinatown” … and offers 5 lessons learned …