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This Week in Reviews – October 7, 2005

Each Friday, A Guy In New York publishes “This Week in Reviews (TWIR),” with quick links to New York City restaurant reviews and mentions from the previous seven days in blogs, magazines, and newspapers.
The Asia Society is sponsoring a panel discussion, “Dim Sum and Then Some” … moderated by Mimi Sheraton … panelists include Michael Tong, Harley Spiller, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Phil Suarez, Patricia Yeo, Handel Lee … $15 members, $30 nonmembers … October 25, 2005, 6:30-8:30 pm … 725 Park Avenue, at East 71st Street, 212-517-2742

Salli Vates likes the tuna sandwich at 718 Restaurant … 35-01 Ditmars Boulevard, Queens, 718-204-5553
Plate Of The Day says that the “‘cubana’ empanada which is roast pork” … is “pretty good” at Empanada Mama … 763 9th Avenue, between 51st and 52nd Streets, 212-698-9008 [MenuPages | Citysearch]
Mona’s Apple had a surprise dinner and her socks blown off at Bellavitae … enjoyed the orrecchiete … and the “black squid ink pasta with calamari … the pasta was actually in the form of squid! It totally blew our socks off.” … 24 Minetta Lane, between 6th Avenue and MacDougal Street, 212-473-5121 [MenuPages | Citysearch] .. also see her review of Kitchen and Cocktails … where she “died and went to macaroni heaven” when eating the macaroni and cheese … 199 Orchard Street, between Houston and Stanton Streets, 212-420-1112 [MenuPages | Citysearch]
Moira Hodgson also likes Bellavitae, which “is as much a wine bar as a restaurant, so there are lots of small plates meant for sharing and for accompanying wine” … the “tagliata, a sliced steak served with a robust green sauce—a good buy at $19” … and she would definetely go back for the “spaghetti cacio e pepe (literally, ‘cheese and pepper’)” … “Bellavitae is something of a rarity in New York: It’s a genuinely friendly, laid-back neighborhood restaurant where the food is simple, the prices are low and the wine is good. Even in Italy, it would be a find.” …
Pascale Le Draoulec went to Sol y Sombra … “the cooking at Sol y Sombra couldn’t be more traditional, read predictable. On the other hand, if you have fond memories of trolling for tapas in San Sebastian or Logrono, this is a fine place to relax and reminisce.” … liked the leeks on mushrooms … the “chicken breast with Spanish-style ratatouill … the chicken was cooked so brilliantly it tasted, well, better than chicken.” … not so fond of the “marinated quail with roasted figs” or the “merluza (hake) in a parsley and clam sauce” … 462 Amsterdam Avenue, between 82nd and 83rd Streets, 212-400-4036 [MenuPages | Citysearch]
Amateur Gourmet said the beet salad at Deborah “may surpass the Balthazar beet salad as my favorite beet salad of all time.” … loved the seared Alaskan halibut … and awarded “4 Adam stars” … 43 Carmine Street, between Bedford and Bleecker Streets, 212-242-2606 [MenuPages | Citysearch]
NYC Nosh discovered the Fairway Cafe, in the back of the Fairway Market … “Brunch with a Theme: Fairway Café” … and said the pancakes “might be the most perfect brunch food we’ve had in a long time.” … 2127 Broadway, between 74th and 75th Streets, 2nd floor, 212-595-1888 [MenuPages | Citysearch]
Twenty Bucks a Day likes Good Burger and warns, “It’s going to be unbelievably hot and probably as crowded as Shake Shack or Burger Joint as soon as yesterday’s lunch run, so get in on the ground floor and enjoy while possible.” … “I pretty much inhaled the burger. It was REALLY tasty. The bun was also of high quality – I like these Shake Shack-style buns that are soft, yet don’t fall apart after being inundated with burger juices” … “The real star here, however, was the potato.” … 800 Second Avenue, at 43rd Street, 212-922-1700 [Citysearch]
A Hamburger Today also likes Good Burger … “Preliminary analysis: Excellent, juicy burger. Heftier than Shake Shack farther downtown but not so insanely thick you can’t get your mouth around the thing. Crisp, fresh red onion and plenty of thickly cut, sweet pickle rounds.” … with pics …
Forbes gives green GO (scroll down) to … Strip House where the steak is “outstanding” and the “lobster bisque, herb French fries, and grilled sea bass are excellent” … 13 East 12th Street, 212-328-0000 [MenuPages | Citysearch] … The Alamo: “The ceviche sampler and the salad of calamari and bananas are divine” … 304 East 48th Street, 212-759-0590 [MenuPages | Citysearch]… Alto … “the risottos and pastas, meat and fish, … are wonderful” … 520 Madison Avenue (entrance on 53rd Street between 5th Avenue and Madison Avenue), 212-308-1099 [MenuPages | Citysearch]
Gael Greene likes the “luscious udon-noodle salad with citrus sorbet, and delicate lobster shumai with crème fraîche and caviar” … at Yumcha … 29 Bedford Street, at Downing Street, 212-524-6800 [MenuPages | Citysearch]
eater say Yumcha is closing October 9 …
Rachel Wharton recommends trying 10 places along Ludlow Street “while it’s still truly eclectic – and affordable” … Ludlow Street, between Houston and Rivington Streets …
Frank Bruni gave one star to Sette Enoteca e Cucina … liked the roasted asparagus appetizer … tuna “rolled in ground fennel seeds before being seared and topped with olives and preserved lemons” … and “a fantastic plum crostata” … but it “had a few too many letdowns” … 207 7th Avenue, at 3rd Street, Brooklyn, 718-499-7767 [Citysearch]
Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld list 3 places “The Chefs Recommend” … Park Blue, 158 West 58th Street, between 6th and 7th Avenues, 212-247-2727 [MenuPages | Citysearch] … Landmarc, 179 West Broadway, at Leonard Street, 212-343-3883 [MenuPages | Citysearch] … Bar Veloce, 175 Second Avenue, between 11th and 12th Streets, 212-260-3200 … [Citysearch]
Adam Platt reviews 2 … Upstairs at Bouley … “Petit Bouley” … “The menu is a schizophrenic mingling of sushi, salads, Japanese hors d’oeuvres, and various specialties, including a new ‘Bouley Burger.'” … “[Chef] Bouley was present in the kitchen on only one of my visits. … The rest of the time he was absent, and all hell tended to break loose.” … NYC.com also had complaints about the service (TWIR, September 16, 2005) … liked the “very fresh portion of halibut” and the lobster … 130 West Broadway, at Duane Street, 212-219-1011 [NYC.com] … Maremma … “The menu at Maremma is varied and cheap, but given Casella’s facility with big, hearty dishes (his Tuscan spareribs are a specialty at Beppe), many of these recipes promise more than they deliver.” … “pasta is your best bet, particularly the spaghetti with lamb meatballs” … 228 West 10th Street, between Bleecker and Hudson Streets, 212-645-0200 [Eater | MenuPages]
David Rosen also visited Upstairs at Bouley … “Tender squid cooked on a flat top over crisp Boston Bibb lettuce is the best salad among the five offerings in this category.” … liked the monkfish … “Meats, on the other hand, are all exceptional” … and complains about the service …
Owen Phillips in Tables for Two says Maremma is an “earnest, weird little place … named for the arid part of Tuscany where Sergio Leone filmed his raw horse operas.” … liked the bean sampler, a “terrific piece of sautéed bluefish,” and the grilled rabbit …
Peter Gianotti has a mixed review of Angelfish Undersea Cuisine in Long Beach … “Looking for its sea legs, but still a good catch” … crab cakes are “very good” … shrimp cocktail gets “four big stars” … “But the Caribbean-style seafood salad is equal parts mushy and tough, depending on whether you’ve encountered the scallops or the conch.” … “try the rich, moist crabmeat-crusted slab of swordfish; or the light, steamed red snapper with julienned vegetable.” … 180 West Park Avenue, Long Beach, 516-431-0044
Andrea Strong was “Chowing Down at Fatty Crab” … and had “a seriously life-altering dish called Nasi Lemak … the most buttery soft and sensual piece of chicken I have ever eaten in my life” … “I was not about to skip dessert and neither should you. The Sweet Roti—a fried roti pancake wrapped around sweetened condensed milk … may put you into a diabetic coma, but it’s worth it. You should also try the Ice Kachang … the Malaysian version of a snow cone: shaved ice doused in palm sugar syrup topped with nuts and assorted Malaysian jellies.” … 643 Hudson Street, between Horatio and Gansevoort Streets, 212-352-3590 [MenuPages | Citysearch]
Andrea Strong says “my burger at Luger’s was awful. It was a disgrace. It was completely unseasoned—utterly flavorless.” … “I mean, they make a much better burger at Five Points. What’s the fuss people?” … “All was not lost. Our creamed spinach was lovely” … “I will be back to see what this steak fuss is about for sure. But for my burger fix, I’ll stick to Five Points” … this contrasts with A Full Belly’s opinion that the best hamburger in NYC is at Luger’s (TWIR, September 16, 2005) … Peter Luger Steak House, 178 Broadway, Brooklyn, 718-387-7400 [Citysearch] … Five Points, 31 Great Jones Street, between Bowery and Lafayette Street, 212-253-5700 [MenuPages | Citysearch]
NYC metroblog likes the pizza at Fascati Pizza … “The two slices we ordered to take away were sublime, thin baked bases with the cheesiest toppings.” … 80 Henry Street, Brooklyn, 718-237-1278 [slice | Citysearch]
A Small Victory reviews Candy Corn and Caramel Apple soda … from the Jones Soda Company … “It’s a Halloween Soda, it’s a dessert topping, it’s a floor wax!” … Ai yi yi …
A Full Belly likes the biscuits at Popeye’s … so does gothamist … locations in NYC plus links to coupons … [Citysearch]