This Week in Reviews – November 11, 2005

Each Friday, A Guy In New York publishes “This Week in Reviews (TWIR),” with quick links to New York City restaurant reviews and mentions from the previous seven days in blogs, magazines, and newspapers.
- Cassandra Uretz and Leo Standora report that Hallo Berlin “won the Vendy Award for the top street-vendor food in New York.” … “Accepting a foot-high silver loving cup was chef-owner Rolf Babiel, who has been delighting customers with his food at Fifth Ave. and 54th St. for 25 years.” … Tony Dragones was a runner up … but Tony and his brother John are winners with us …
- The Food Section has a pork-packed roundup … perfect for DC …
- Moira Hodgson gave Blue Hill 3 stars … and reports that it has “a sophisticated modern cuisine that’s on a par with some of the city’s best restaurants.” … “a plate of exquisite tiny fall vegetables … permeated with the aroma of purple basil and was unbelievably good” … “The crabmeat salad, with mint and cilantro, micro greens, green-tomato marmalade and diced apple was pure heaven.” … 75 Washington Place, between 6th Avenue and MacDougal Street, 212-539-1776 [MenuPages | NYT | Gayot | Citysearch]
- Irene Sax says that “Brie on a crusty baguette. That’s what you should eat at” Zucco: Le French Diner … “In this tiny, candlelit room, the kitchen takes up so much of the floor space that there’s room for only 18 seats, most of them at the counter. It’s owned and run by Zucco himself, a bearded and jeans-clad type with a French accent and a warm welcome who does everything in the place.” … 188 Orchard Street, between Houston and Stanton Streets, 212-677-5200 [Chowhound]
- Peter Meehan says Goodburger is OK … “Goodburger’s burgers fell somewhere between the ones at Shake Shack and the ones at the Burger Joint at the Parker Meridien, the two places that Nick Tsoulos, Goodburger’s driving force, cited as New York spots he likes.“… but it “does have the best chocolate shake ($4.75) of the current bunch” … (Twenty Bucks a Day reviewed in October (TWIR, October 7, 2005)) … 800 Second Avenue, at 43rd Street, 212-922-1700 [A Hamburger Today | Citysearch]
- A Guy In New York has added links to a few more reactions this week to the Michelin New York 2006 … and recommends the Soulaki and delicious charcoal grilled hamburgers from Tony Dragones at 62nd Street and Madison Avenue … and his brother John Dragones at 64th and Madison … pics and maps here …
- gothamist‘s favorite at Dinosaur Bar-B-Q is “the ‘Swag Sampler Plate’ which allows you to try spicy shrimp, deviled eggs, fried green tomatoes, and chicken wings. The chicken wings are quite exceptional” … 646 West 131st Street, 212-694-1777 [NYT | Gayot | Citysearch]
- David Rosen visited Land Thai Kitchen … “Appetizers are universally good” … “a crispy red snapper cooked with cherry tomatoes and a well-seared duck breast with sweet potatoes and a zesty lime-leaf demi-glace steal the show.” … “Prices are low for food of this caliber.” … (Mona’s Apple reviewed in October (TWIR, October 28, 2005)) … 450 Amsterdam Avenue, between 81st and 82nd Streets, 212-501-8121 [MenuPages | NYT]
- Robert Sietsema writes that the “omnibus vegetarian platter–highly recommended–called Nepali dal-bhat” at Himalayan Yak is “a perfect introduction to Nepalese cuisine” … “definitely worth ordering, is sadeko gundruk” … … (Twenty Bucks a Day reviewed in October (TWIR, October 28, 2005)) … 72-20 Roosevelt Avenue, Queens, 718-779-1119 [NYT | The Taste Land | A Year In Food]
- Andrea Thompson says the “the monstrous Mo Burger, a thick, juicy meat patty, topped by a fried egg and fried onions and sandwiched by two generous smears of chicken liver and a bulky, soft bun [is] too overblown to really enjoy.” at Mo Pitkin’s House of Satisfaction … (Andrea Strong reviewed in October (TWIR, October 21, 2005) and Peter Meehan reviewed in September (TWIR, September 30, 2005))… 34 Avenue A, between 2nd and 3rd Streets, 212-777-5660 [MenuPages]
- Amateur Gourmet says the “Famous Dancing Shrimp with spicy pineapple & orange coconut dipping sauces” at Redeye Grill “tasted good.” … the “miso salmon on wasabi mashed potatoes with bok choy … wasn’t bad, but it didn’t justify the $26 price” … “When mom and dad asked us later how it was, I said it was awful and [brother] Michael said: ‘Oh he’s just mad because he ordered something stupid.'” … 890 7th Avenue, at 56th Street, 212-541-9000 [MenuPages | NYT | Gayot | Citysearch]
- Mona’s Apple had a so-so breakfast at Petite Abeille … “for a good-tasting experience (beyond its good taste in decor) there are better options in the city” … multiple locations, [MenuPages | NYT | Gayot | Citysearch]
- Frank Bruni says that D’or Ahn “isn’t a great restaurant, and on its clumsier nights it isn’t even a very good one. But it’s a terrific example of why anyone who loves eating out has to love New York, a welcome reminder of the optimism and the deep well of ideas that drive the city’s dining scene.” … “inconsistent” seems the best description … (Adam Platt reviewed last week (TWIR, November 4, 2005), Paul Adams and Moira Hodgson reviewed in October (TWIR, October 21, 2005)) … 207 10th Avenue, at West 22nd Street, 212-627-7777 [Chowhound | Citysearch] … he also reviewed Bann … “an offshoot of Woo Lae Oak in SoHo” (Yi Wah, Chug’s son/Peter’s nephew, is helping open the bar at the new Woo Lae Oak in Tyson’s Corner, in between his gig at Citronelle) … had “a terrific dish of rabbit that had been braised in sake, molded into thumb-shaped clumps and rolled in bacon.” … “At least as much of the food we tried was ordinary or disappointing.” … “The prudent strategy at Bann may be to order conservatively, to stick to those grills.” … 350 West 50th Street, between 8th and 9th Avenues, 212-582-4446 [Citysearch]
- NYC nosh reports that Hell’s Kitchen “advertises its culinary approach as modern ‘Mexican Fusion,’ and the décor reflects this” … the lobster fritters and butternut squash soup were disappointments … “main courses were a little better, especially Nosher’s ancho-crusted tuna” … “the service was a little terse and snappy” … 679 Ninth Avenue, between 46th and 47th Streets, 212-977-1588 [MenuPages | NYT | Gayot | Citysearch]
- Andrea Strong says “Cookshop is Five Points with a more ambitious agenda.” … “The menu at Cookshop changes daily, according to farmers’ supply, though several items are usually available. Among the stationary menu items is the pizza.” … “the wood-roasted troutlings ($6) were the surprise hit of the evening.” … (NYC Nosh reviewed in October (TWIR, October 14, 2005)) … 156 10th Avenue, at 20th Street, 212-924-4440 [Citysearch]
- Pascale Le Draoulec gave 2 stars to Cookshop … the clam chowder “ranks among the best I’ve had” … “In addition to the glorious beet salad, a mesmerizing mizuna salad graced with Crispin apple matchsticks, spiced pecans and blue cheese had the bright, crisp crunch of a fallen fall leaf.” … the cod and rotisserie rabbit were cases of “the bland leading the bland.” … the grilled rib eye and “wood-oven roasted white halibut” were also winners … last month, the hot plate said, “while the PR buzz will surely keep the seats packed for the next few months, you’re better off waiting until the crowds cool off, and the kitchen heats up.”
- gothamist likes Leela Lounge … had “a fig chutney that was so tasty we wouldn’t let the waitress remove our plate until we were able to wipe it clean with a piece of warm naan.” … 1 West 3rd Street, between Broadway and Mercer, 212-529-2059
- Mark Ellwood has a fusion roundup … “Fusion without confusion: 8 eclectic spots where the blending of cuisines proves delicious” … Sushi Samba & Sugracane (45% Japanese, 55% Brazilian) … “The trademark sashimi ceviches, whether lobster ($16) or yellowtail ($11), are briefly marinated in citrus so that they don’t ‘cook’ for as long as traditional ceviche and retain an Asian freshness.” … 245 Park Avenue South, between 19th and 20th Streets, 212- 475-9377, or 87 Seventh Avenue South, at Bleecker Street, 212-691-7885 [MenuPages | NYT | Gayot | Citysearch] … La Caridad 78 (90% Chinese, 10% Cuban) … “rock-bottom prices (you’ll struggle to spend more than $10) and superb food more than make up for any lack of ambience. … best to stick with those Latino staples” … 2199 Broadway, at 78th Street, 212-874-2780 [MenuPages | NYT | Citysearch] … Maremma (80% Italian, 20% Southwestern) … “unusual but delicious … try a Sloppy Giuseppe ($11), chunks of oxtail on grits, or a hearty portion of wild boar papardelle ($17), here known as Wild Bill Cody.” … 278 West 10th Street, at Bleecker Street, 212-645-0200 [MenuPages | NYT | Gayot | Citysearch] … Mo Pitkin’s House of Satisfaction (50% Jewish, 50% Latino) … “a stunning ropa vieja-like slab of brisket” … (Andrea Strong reviewed in October (TWIR, October 21, 2005)) … 34 Avenue A, at 2nd Street, 212-777-5660 [MenuPages | NYT | Citysearch] … Aki (70% Japanese, 30% Caribbean) … “alongside standard sushi ($19 for one person), you can nibble tangy jerk chicken rolls ($18 for three different rolls) or tuna tartare with fruit chutney” … 181 West 4th Street, between 6th and 7th Avenues, 212-989-5440 [MenuPages | Citysearch] … Hip Hop Chow (60% comfort food, 40% Chinese) … “the place to go if you’ve always wanted a portion of jasmine rice with your buttermilk-fried chicken” … 129 2nd Avenue, between St. Marks Place and 7th Street, 212-674-2469 [MenuPages | Citysearch] … Chinese Mirch (75% Chinese, 25% Indian) … “fill up on delicious mains including chili paneer ($9.99) – much like Indian cottage cheese – or scorching Szechuan prawns” … 120 Lexington Avenue, between 28th and 29th Streets, 212-532-3663 [NYT | Citysearch] … Chennai Garden (90% Indian, 10% Kosher) … “a standout, since it’s not only animal-friendly but also kosher-certified … $6 lunchtime buffet may be frantic, but it’s a delicious, inexpensive way to sample the cuisine here” … 129 East 27th Street, between Lexington and Park Avenues, 212-689-1999 [MenuPages | NYT | Citysearch]
- eater says “The Michelin-starred Jewel Bako’s evolution from delightful to debacle is chronicled in one single thread, spanning the better part of four years.” … “Jewel Debako” … 101 2nd Avenue, at 6th Street, 212-253-7848 [NYT | MenuPages | Gayot | Citysearch]
- Kris Ensminger has a list of 6 places to eat in Harlem … “Harlem: The A Train’s Dining Car,” November 6, 2005 …
- Steve Cuozzo “dropped by Etats-Unis, surprise recipient of a coveted Michelin star. How, I wondered, could a place so good just a few blocks from my Upper East Side home have escaped my notice for so long?” … “Except for terrific meatloaf, most of Etats-Unis’ dishes, like weird “lobster lasagna,” were the sort of overreaching duds you find in second-class food towns like Miami. This is Michelin’s idea of a star-worthy restaurant, but not The Four Seasons or L’Impero?” … 242 East 81st Street, between 2nd and 3rd Avenues, 212-517-8826 [NYT | MenuPages | Gayot | Citysearch]
- Isabel Forgang has a list of 5 places that serve … sandwiches … $7 to $19.95! … where are the Bahn Mi places? Ai yi yi yi yi … see comments under “The URL of Sandwich” at kottke for many more suggestions …
- Thanks to Slashfood for pointing us to Brunch.org … which “documents and quantifies the ongoing search for the best of the best” Eggs Benedict from restaurants across the country, including New York City …
- Twenty Bucks a Day sounds like our kind of guy: looking for excellent food and good value … he ate lunch every day at Ray’s Super Deli last week … “roasted pork shoulder (pernil) was tender and delicious” … Cuban sandwich … “stew chicken, or pollo guisado…this chicken was fall-off-the bone tender, infused with the stew’s spices and color” … “codfish salad (ensalada de bacalao)… it might become my new Friday favorite meal” … (also listed as Ramon’s Super Deli), 452 Hudson Street, between Morton and Barrow Streets, 212-242-7912 [Citysearch] … and was “absolutely impressed” and gives a thumbs up to Spicy Mina … first visit: “the palak paneer … [and] chicken dopaiza … were excellent bordering on amazing.” … second visit: “I’m now of two minds on the Mina experience … I thought the portions were a little small and the prices [$80 for 4 people] a little big.” … (also see eater “Inside Chowhound’s Cult of Mina,” October 19, 2005“) … 64-23 Broadway, Queens, 718-205-2340 [Chowhound: “the best Indian restaurant in New York.”]
- Plate of the Day likes the fries and burgers at Prime Burger … “The fries are deep fried to a thick crunchy golden crust and are crunchy delicious. The burgers are amazing.” … 5 East 51st Street, 212-759-4729 [MenuPages | NYT | Gayot | Citysearch] … and also went to Krik Krak (and ignored Anthony Bourdain’s (Kitchen Confidential) advice: “absolutely do not order fish on a Monday”) … “an entree’ of Poisson creole – deep friend red snapper … turned out to be not an extremely fresh fish and maybe even previously deep fried and just heated and served” … (David Rosen reviewed Krik Krak in October (TWIR, October 28, 2005)) … 844 Amsterdam Avenue, between 101st and 102nd Streets, 212-222-3100 [MenuPages | NYT | Citysearch]
- Slashfood likes the pastries at Le Pain Quotidien … “the croissants at Le Pain are heavenly, and their display case also houses some wondrous hazelnut raisin flute breads.” … multiple locations [MenuPages | NYT | Citysearch]
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