One of the nation’s favorite junk foods is getting a makeover. Thanks to Atkins-style diets, gourmet chefs whose toppings extend as far as sashimi and heavy discounting by the big chains, the independent establishments that account for the majority of pizzerias have been getting squeezed for years. In response, many new places are dedicating themselves to the basics. Instead of stuffed crusts and Thai seasonings, the idea is to focus on pure ingredients: the dough, the cheese, the sauce.

“Pizza’s Next Act: Buffeted by low-carb diets and chains that serve pineapple-topped pies, the local pizzerias that still dominate the business are fighting back — focusing on basics like crust and cheese. Our look at the country’s hottest joints,” by Katy McLaughlin, The Wall Street Journal, January 14, 2006
According to a sidebar (1-page pdf) accompanying this article, the “pizza places that are getting buzz [“Hot”], as well as highly regarded but more traditional spots [“Classic”]” in New York and Washington, DC are

NYC

• NYC Hot: Pinch-Pizza by the Inch: “Crispy crust, subtle toppings …unconventional by-the-inch pricing strategy inspired by the way pizza is sold in Uruguay.” … slice says “the pizza was good, and it was fun to get a long, sub sandwich–like slice. The crust was very thin, which is just how I like it. … One of the few things we found to complain about was the convoluted ordering scheme. The price seems pretty inexpensive until you start adding various toppings willy-nilly.” … gave it a “Six-Slice rating out of a possible eight.” … web site, 416 Park Ave South, between 28th and 29th Streets, 212-686-5222 [Menupages | NY Post | NY Metro | openlist | Citysearch]
• NYC Classic: Lombardi’s: “The real deal — ultrathin-crust pizza made in the 100-year-old coal-fired oven” … slice‘s take: “For the purists among us, sadly, Lombardi’s has become another frayed page in Gotham’s gastronomic history book. As loyal Slice readers know, Lombardi’s is the elder statesman of New York pizza. Founded by Gennaro Lombardi nearly one hundred years ago, this is America’s original pizzeria (even if it is a few doors down from the patriarch’s famed beginnings). … the pies at the Little Italy pizzeria were uneven.” … 32 Spring Street, between Mott and Mulberry Streets, 212-941-7994 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Metro | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch]

DC

Although we’re not pizza experts (see slice) … Chug made hand-tossed pizzas and “little hats” (a calzone) for 2 years during high school in a pizza place that made everything from scratch … we wonder why Pizzeria Paradiso wasn’t on this list …