“Does street food make the best cuisine?”

The hawkers who came to New York had been handpicked by K.F. Seetoh, a Singaporean of Cantonese descent, whose connection to hawker food is similar, on a smaller scale, to the connection the France family has had with stock-car racing; that is, he has managed to recognize a lot of scattered, un-exalted activity as a cultural force and figured out how to merchandise it.

“Three Chopsticks: Does street food make the best cuisine?” by Calvin Trillin, The New Yorker, September 3 & 10, 2007 (abstract only online)