This Week in Reviews Archives

This Week in NYC Reviews - July 21, 2006

Each Friday, A Guy In New York publishes "This Week in NYC Reviews (TWIR)," with quick links to reviews of New York City restaurants that sound interesting to us and that we believe represent a good value ... places we would take our friends.

To see a list of upcoming food events in the NYC area, see "New York City Wine Tasting, Dinners, Food/Drink Events."

For DC restaurant reviews, see This Week in DC Reviews at Hobnob Blog, and Tyler Cowen's Ethnic Dining Guide ....

NYC Restaurant inspection results online

Although Jules at The Bruni Digest has decamped for Chicago, she continues to write about Frank Bruni's "reviews" ... "Le Cirque: Fancy Pants, but No Family Jewels" ... "Time to take off those thatched heather pajamas and put on your fancy pants! The Count, feeling very Countly today, drops in on Le Cirque, flush with seeming nostalgia for the starchy, star-studded brand." ... good luck in Chicago Jules!
Robert Sietsema says the best place for Sichuan peppercorn-spiced food is Xiao La Jiao ... "In a tawdry bi-level strip mall next to Golden Golden Szechuan stands newcomer Xiao La Jiao (English name: Little Pepper)." (this used to be Spicy & Tasty) ...the dried rabbit "wasn't dry in the least, and the subtle smoked flavor was enhanced by dipping each bite-size piece in the accompanying saucer of salt and toasted huajiao." ... "The best thing on the menu, though, is a dish that dry-cooks swatches of lamb with a coating of cumin and Sichuan peppercorns, three ingredients and one technique inconceivable in southern Chinese restaurants." ... 133-43 Roosevelt Avenue, Flushing, Queens, 718-939-7788

Steve Cuozzo asks, "Where does less than $6 worth of food cost $32?" ... our answer: Any place where there are people with more money than judgement (MMTJ) ... and at the kind of places we don't go and don't think you should either ...

eat drink one woman, after eating ja jang myun at Shanghai Mong, is still searching "for the delicious ja jang myun of my memory. Anybody have any recommendations?" [Citysearch]

Augieland does his typical thorough review, with pics, of Moto ... and Devin Tavern ... we wonder why the NYT can't hire someone to put together reviews half as good as Augie's - just wondering ... and he has a nice overview of the "top of the world of junk food," Chicago Dogs ... we love this:

The last stop of this journey was Hot Doug’s. When Chicago area magazines do surveys, Hot Doug’s often appears on the “favorite places to eat” lists of the Chicagoland chefs I respect most. On a little corner far from the city center (the 3300 north block), across from an empty field with a crew using a backhoe to dig a hole deep enough to fit an extension ladder, is a small (about a dozen four-top tables) lunch-counter kind of place somewhat haphazardly decorated with things like pictures of Brittney Spears, an 8x12 print-out of sausage-centric German phrase translations, and in large white lettering the slogan that “the two nicest words in the English language are encased meats.”

A Guy in New York visited several "good value" eateries with his friend from Italy, Mietta Buitoni ... yeah, those Buitonis ...

Veal Cheeks has a roundup of Four Asian Spots ... Lao Bei Fang Dumpling House ... Mie Jakarta ... New Asha Cafe ... Skyway ...

The Girl Who Ate Everything has a picture of omurice at Hiroko's Place and it looks interesting (according to wikipedia, Omurice is "a contemporary Japanese dish consisting of an omelet made with fried rice") ... "Each plump little grain of rice was coated in ketchup. I've never had rice and ketchup before, but it works (if you like ketchup). While I wouldn't want it slathered on in a goopy fashion, the coating was just a tint of flavor." ... 75 Thompson Street, between Spring and Broome Streets, 212-625-1303 [MenuPages | Yelp | The Gaijin Girl's Guide to Chinatown]

pushcart NYC

took my first visit to Roosevelt Avenue in Jackson Heights -- or is it Rego Park? -- at any rate, near 79th Street, where the legendary Arepa Lady is rumored to hang out.

I was amazed -- here is another piece of the city, unlike any other, as throbbing and busy as Chinatown, and supposedly open later. Queens truly is where the city that never sleeps lives now. Service industry=all hours.

There are a great number of carts of varying degrees of sophistication strung out along the sidewalks flanking the elevated portion of the R. I have singled out two of the simpler ones for this first review, and I fear I haven't even done them particular justice...I'll have to go back soon. Of particular interest: a food-truck specializing in ceviche and the countless fruit salad and fruit-drink carts, particularly the ones that seem to use some kind of crisp pastry as a dish (almost like an sugar cone).

He promises more soon ...

Twenty bucks a day says the food at Damascus Gate is "totally delicious" ... and "the mtabbal, which seemed to be comprised of garlic mashed up with eggplant and peppers, was good and unique enough that I considered taking home a gallon" ... but commenters on zabihah say this place is overpriced ... 7224 5th Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-680-8844 [zabihah | New York Food | Village Voice] ... and says Spartan Souvlaki is "the only restaurant I’ve been to in the last few years (with the possible exception of the dining room in my great-grandmother’s nursing home) that has had flowers painted on the ceiling" ... "the gyro sandwich - a true monsterpiece that adds enormous heapings of yummy meat, lettuce and red onions to the tomatoes, and adds a generous dollop of tzatziki to bind it all together. Warning: this tzatziki has so much raw garlic in it that it is just as pungent as a hot pepper" ... sounds good to us, but we like garlic .... 6820 Eighth Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-748-5838 [Go Brooklyn | Village Voice | insider pages]

____________________________________

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Did we miss your favorite review?

Let us know: aguyinnewyork [at] gmail.com ... we're especially interested in hearing about mom and pop places from NYC bloggers ... . . . . . . . . .

Technorati Tags: New York, NYC, Manhattan, restaurants, restaurant reviews, this week in reviews, week in reviews

Posted July 21, 2006 08:37 AM · Permalink · This Week in Reviews · Comments (1) · TrackBack (0)

Good value

We've been talking about the kind of restaurants we want to tell other people about ... and very few of them have PR budgets and "buzz" ... Eater, Bruni, Andrea Strong, and hundreds of other folks can and do adequately cover those kinds of places ... there's nothing wrong with those kinds of places - we even eat at and like some of them! ...

But we're more interested in, and prefer to support, the numerous great "mom and pop" places, where the owners - and often their families - are much closer to the business of cooking and not so focused on showy and expensive artistry ... again, nothing wrong with showy and expensive artistry, but those places have many people who want to swoon over and gossip about them ... and we don't need to add to that ... plus, we're not the swooning types ...

Steer away from all the fancy flowers, silverware, bottled still or sparkling water, sexy female hostesses and publicity-seeking chefs ... we are not impressed with all the extra noise ... we are only interested in the food and great value ...

Moreover, some would claim that ethnic eateries are not hygenic but we have not seen any empirical evidence from the City health authorities to substantiate that claim ... we have never caught any sickness from eating street vendor food and at ethnic eateries ...

From now on, we will highlight reviews of places that sound interesting to us, and we'll continue to try and spread the good word about places we like ... places we would like to take our friends ... and we hope that you will try them, too, so that they can stay in business and thrive ...

NYC is a town where you can eat at fantastic restaurants and street vendors every day on less than $20 ... yes, we like him, too ... so, from now on we will share reviews and tell you about those places that we believe are a good value ...sometimes those will be expensive places ... but more often they won't be ...

Posted July 19, 2006 06:37 PM · Permalink · This Week in Reviews · Comments (0) · TrackBacks (0)

This Week in NYC Reviews - June 23, 2006

Each Friday, A Guy In New York publishes "This Week in NYC Reviews (TWIR)," with quick links to New York City restaurant reviews and mentions from the previous seven days in blogs, magazines, and newspapers.

To see a list of upcoming food events in the NYC area, see "New York City Wine Tasting, Dinners, Food/Drink Events." Also see our roundup of Michelin 1, 2 and 3 star restaurants with links to reviews ...

For DC restaurant reviews, see This Week in DC Reviews at Hobnob Blog, and Tyler Cowen's Ethnic Dining Guide ....

NYC Restaurant inspection results online

snack can save you $7.98 ...
Slice NY has a a great pic of how to enjoy the World Cup ... GO Ecuador! GO Argentina! GO Mexico! GO Brazil! ... and reposts something worth reading: "Di Fara: 'Why the hurry? Life's too short'" ...

Off The Broiler is looking forward, as are we, to a new Pixar movie coming next summer ... Ratatouille ... web site ... btw - if you go see Cars, stay all the way through the credits at the end ...

NYC nosh says Jordan Lobster Farms is worth the trip ... "if you really, really love fresh shellfish, this is exactly where you want to be" ... web site, 1 Pettit Place, Island Park, 516-889-3314 [NYT] ... and likes the tacos at Tehuitzingo Mexican Deli: "might just be the best on our tiny island" ... 695 10th Avenue, between 47th and 48th Streets, 212-397-5956 [MenuPages | NYT | Yelp]

The Food Section has "discovered the Best New Brunch Dining With a View in New York" ... "one of the most spectacular views of the East River and the Statue of Liberty you’ve ever seen" ... Fairway in Red Hook ... web site, 500 Van Brunt Street, Brooklyn, 718-694-6868 ... directions ...

Veal Cheeks says Veritas "is a restaurant where one can easily spend $200+/person, yet hear more of one's neighbors' conversations than that of one's partner." ... "None of the dishes were transcendent, but both the appetizers and entrees were well-conceived and stalwart." ... web site, 43 East 20th Street, at Broadway, 212-353-3700 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Mag | openlist | Gayot | Savory NY | Yelp | Citysearch]

Gotham Gal says Chinatown Brasserie "is good not great." ... Disneyland Brasserie ... (previous reviews: Steve Cuozzo (TWIR, June 9, 2006), Off the Broiler (TWIR, June 2, 2006)) ... web site, 380 Lafayette Street, 212-533-7000 [MenuPages | Savory NY | Citysearch]

Twenty bucks a day liked the pljeskavica at Djerdan ... "Regardless of price, the meat can’t be faulted. The pljeskavica arrived on an aluminum plate bearing twin containers of chopped white onions and ajvar, (a red pepper spread that, if I can find a jar or six to take with me to the Cape, will be the hit condiment of the summer with my family)." ... 221 West 38th Street, between Seventh and Eighth Avenues, 212-921-1183 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Mag]

Forbes gave 3 Green GOs ... Cafe D'Alsace: "Try the petatou (warm potato salad appetizer laced with Munster cheese), the roast chicken, the grilled trout with buttered spinach and a Riesling sauce, and the choucroute garnie" ... web site, 1695 2nd Avenue, at 88th Street, 212-996-1706 [Shecky's | NYT | NY Mag | Yelp | Citysearch] ... Shelly's New York: "Portions are large and delicious" ... web site, 41 West 57th Street, 212-245-2422 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Mag | openlist | Gayot] ... Woo Lae Oak: "Make it a point to try the tempuralike calamari: yummy" ... web site (Flash and music), 148 Mercer Street, between Prince and Houston Streets, 212-925-8200 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Mag | openlist | Gayot | Yelp | Citysearch]

Gael Greene wonders why she hadn't heard of Sfoglia ... Andrea Strong reviewed it in May (TWIR, May 26, 2006) ... web site, 1402 Lexington Avenue, at 92nd Street, 212-831-1402 [MenuPages | NYT]

Adam Platt gave 0 stars to Mr. Chow Tribeca ... "Always, the food is served by bow-tied waiters in an exaggerated, pseudo-swank, Continental style. Always, it’s outrageously expensive, a canny tactic designed to alleviate the hidden fear, among the masses who flock there, that it might not be very good after all." ... "the chicken satay they recommended turned out to be two scraggly portions of chicken breast ($5.50 each) marinated in some indistinct orange substance and obscured in a kind of boiled cream sauce tasting vaguely of peanuts. The harried (mostly Italian) waiters also brought us some rock-hard, midget-size pot stickers, a petite mound of the famous Mr. Chow diced squab (costing roughly $9 per petite spoonful), and a single, shopworn scallion pancake about the size (and texture) of one of my daughter’s breakfast mini-waffles. Our frog’s legs were muffled in an elderly batter crust, and a dish called Drunken Fish ($31 à la carte) consisted of a couple of wet pieces of sole sunk in a curious gelatinous substance which had no color and very little taste and looked perilously like pond slime." ... uh huh: it's expensive, so it must be good ... "Pay your bill, and get out of there as fast as you can." ... or better yet, STEER CLEAR and then you won't have to pay a bill ... web site, 121 Hudson Street, near North Moore Street, 212-965-9500 [Gayot | Citysearch]

Lauren Collins says the signature noodles at Mr. Chow Tribeca are "as gelatinous as the lo mein at your neighborhood Golden Dragon, and the accompanying meat sauce, oversugared and tomatoey, tastes exactly like Chef Boyardee Beefaroni." ... yum, yum ... MMTJ ...

Joshua Bernstein says that although Burgers and Cupcakes (458 9th Avenue, between 35th and 36th Streets, 212-643-1200) and Zip Burger (300 1/2 East 52nd Street, 212-308-0623) "are excellent role players, in this hypercrowded meat market they’re hardly destinations. Instead, these newcomers will ably serve their local, under-burgered neighborhood crowd…until another trend boots cheesesteaks, tacos and burgers to food’s fickle curb." ... no foul, no goal ...

Frank Bruni gave 2 stars to Degustation ... warning: "You should not visit Degustation in a group larger than two, because the side-by-side seating would make conversation awkward. You should not go if you're keen on desserts, because Degustation doesn't excel at them. You can easily spend $40 or more to assemble enough modestly priced dishes -- maybe four, maybe even five -- to fill you. And if your reserved seat isn't ready, there's nowhere comfortable to wait." ... (previous reviews: Leo Carey (TWIR June 16, 2006), Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite (TWIR, June 9, 2006)) ... 239 East 5th Street, between 2nd and 3rd Avenues, 212-979-1012 [Augieland | Yelp | Citysearch] ... and 1 star to Jewel Bako ... "a few pieces of its sushi -- pike eel with a dab of pickled plum, chopped jack mackerel with baby ginger, scallions and shiso -- are noteworthy." ... 239 East 5th Street, 212-979-1012 [NY Mag | Gayot | Savory NY | Citysearch]

eat drink one woman went to Mercadito Grove for drinks and appetizers and reports "the bill came out to a whopping $270 for six (only four actually ate dinner) with tax and tip. $270, and I was still hungry and completely sober!" ... easy to avoid that place ... 100 7th Avenue South, at Grove Street, 212- 647-0830 [MenuPages | NYT | Gayot | Yelp | Citysearch]

David Rosen gave 1.5 stars to Peking Duck House ... "the pancakes were superior to any I have consumed in other Chinese restaurants, but the duck lacked the intense flavor that characterized Mainland¹s and the crispy texture that is a hallmark of Shun Lee West¹s. Altogether, it was a good Peking duck, but certainly not the best I have ever had." ... web site, 28 Mott Street, between Chatham Square and Pell Street, 212-227-1810 [MenuPages | NY Mag | Savory NY | Citysearch]

Big Apple Dining Guide liked the ice tea at Prune ... and says the "simple [poussin] dish was truly terrific." ... 54 East 1st Street, 212-677-6221 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Mag | openlist | Gayot | Yelp | Citysearch]

____________________________________

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Did we miss your favorite review?

Let us know: aguyinnewyork [at] gmail.com ... we're especially interested in hearing about mom and pop places from NYC bloggers ...

Link to TWIR

If you want to place a TWIR logo with a review that was featured, feel free to link to one of the banners on the TWIR page.

. . . . . . . . .

Technorati Tags: New York, NYC, Manhattan, restaurants, restaurant reviews, this week in reviews, week in reviews

Posted June 23, 2006 08:57 AM · Permalink · This Week in Reviews · Comments (0) · TrackBacks (0)

This Week in NYC Reviews - June 16, 2006

"The pleasures of the table, and of life, are infinite."
-- Julia Child

To see a list of upcoming food events in the NYC area, see "New York City Wine Tasting, Dinners, Food/Drink Events."

Also see our roundup of Michelin 1, 2 and 3 star restaurants with links to reviews ...

For DC restaurant reviews, see This Week in DC Reviews at Hobnob Blog, and Tyler Cowen's Ethnic Dining Guide ....

NYC Restaurant inspection results online

This week's TWIR is late and light due to World Cup interference ... GO Ecuador! GO Mexico! GO Argentina! GO Brazil! GO USA! ...

Augieland gave 871 spritezillian stars to Little Owl ... the gravy meatball sliders, " three airy meatballs about an inch and a half in diameter dressed in simple tomato sauce, topped with pecorino and chopped parsley, sandwiched in perfectly fitting home made garlic rolls [must] be about as good as a meatball sandwich is ever going to taste." ... "It is definitely worth a visit, whether it is because you want to say you were there back when, or you live close and want a good meal, or the reason I’ll probably be back most often: you like to eat great food in noisy little places." ... web site, 90 Bedford Street, on the corner of Grove Street, 212-741-4695 [NY Mag | Citysearch]
Off The Broiler has great pics of the Big Apple Barbecue Block Party 2006 ... and declares that Shake Shack is "one of the very best fast food establishments in the entire city, if not the best, bar none" ... web site, southeast corner of Madison Square Park, near Madison Avenue and East 23rd Street [A Hamburger Today | MetropolisMag | MenuPages | NY Mag | Yelp | Citysearch] ... and had "the Wazwan, the multicourse tasting menu composed of both hot and cold items" at Tabla ... beautiful pics ... (previous reviews: foodite (TWIR, February 3, 2006), Veal Cheeks (TWIR, December 23, 2005)) ... web site, 11 Madison Avenue, at East 25th Street, 212-889-0667 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Metro | Village Voice | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch]

Steve Cuozzo declares that "heaven is a burger made of fresh-ground, high-quality chuck beef grilled to a juicy turn under a crackling crust." ... " my favorite restaurant burger is Nice Matin's 'Five-Napkin' ($16.75), which uses nothing more exotic than 10 slurpy ounces of fresh-ground chuck on a soft french roll." ... and then looks at 6 places that sell "shamburgers" ... and concludes: "Luger's $7.95 burger (lunch only) is the bargain in the bunch - a slurping-good slab of juicy, fatty meat on a simple, seeded bun, and a fine introduction to the place's legendary way with beef. Though smaller than the others, it's still the Great American Hamburger." ... Nice Matin: web site, 201 West 79th Street, next to the Lucerne Hotel, 212-873-6423 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Mag | Gayot | Village Voice | Yelp | Citysearch] ... Peter Luger's: web site, 178 Broadway, Brooklyn, 718-387-7400 [A Hamburger Today | openlist | NYT | Gayot | Citysearch]

Peter Meehan likes the braised short rib sandwich, the skirt steak salad, and the "Starwich Cobb salad ($11.95), classically composed, hit the spot, even if I wouldn't go out of my way for it." ... at the chain Starwich Salads & Sandwiches ... web site (Flash and music), 63 Wall Street, at Pearl Street, 212-809-3200, 72 West 38th Street, 212-302-7775, 525 West 42nd Street, 212-736-9170, 153 East 53rd Street, 212-371-7772, 1055 Lexington Avenue, at 75th Street [MenuPages | openlist | Yelp | Citysearch]

Leo Carey writes that Degustation Wine & Tasting Bar has "food that is striking and occasionally inspired." ... (previous review: Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite (TWIR, June 9, 2006)) ... 239 East 5th Street, between 2nd and 3rd Avenues, 212-979-1012 [Augieland | Yelp | Citysearch]

Veal Cheeks writes that at Country "it is the food that requires panache. The service at this newly opened restaurant at the Carlton Hotel near Madison Park is as slick, convivial, and confident as that at any four star restaurant. The kitchen's handiwork, while never failing, lacks the flair of genius." ... "The problem was not Executive Chef Doug Psaltis's gaffes, but a deficit of delight, an absence of astonishment. Psaltis is a B+ chef. Psaltis is a pro at synthesizing high-middle cuisine, creating a restaurant free of complaint. Indeed, the high point of the evening was Country's "Carlton House Rolls," a soft, comforting, and polished bread modeled on the Parker House brand." ... (previous reviews: Steve Cuozzo (TWIR, March 10, 2006), Pascale Le Draoulec (TWIR, January 20, 2006), Frank Bruni (TWIR, October 28, 2005)) ... web site, 90 Madison Avenue, at 29th Street (in the Carlton Hotel), 212-889-7100 [MenuPages | Gayot | Savory NY | Citysearch]

Adam Platt says Craftsteak "is big and snazzy, but the beef doesn’t quite measure up." ... and "The lobster I sampled was dull (it’s served in the shell, swimming in an opulent lobster broth), and not worth its $55 price tag." ... web site, 85 Tenth Avenue, at 15th Street, 212-400-6699 [MenuPages | Citysearch]

Frank Bruni gave 2 stars to Dona ... "a fillet of marlin [was] hijacked by an intrusively sweet orange vinaigrette and a too-salty twofer of caper berries and olives" ... "A zippy 'paella soup' took many of the components and seasonings of paella, let orzo play the role of rice and turned it all into a sort of bouillabaisse. Even better was a kind of bacalao Parmigiana, which combined fried salt cod, buffalo-milk ricotta, pecorino and cherry tomatoes." ... (previous reviews: VittlesVamp (TWIR, June 2, 2006), Adam Platt (TWIR, May 26, 2006)) ... web site, 208 East 52nd Street, near Third Avenue, 212-308-0830 [Diners Journal | NY Mag | Citysearch]

Gotham Gal reports that Le Cirque "has reopened once again. Sirio Maccioni and his family gets huge credit for continuing to reinvent their signature restaurant." ... "The fish was a tad over done and the large pieces really didn't have tons of flavor but the key was the fennel au jus. Our waiter came over and poured that jus around the plate. That changed the entire taste of the dish. My friends both had the snapper. 7 spices crushed and covered over the fish and baked with a green curry relish. It was good. Keep in mind that each of these plates were $37." ... we agree with the commenter: "that's ridiculous" ... web site (Flash), 151 East 58th Street, 212-644-0202 [NY Mag | Gayot | Yelp]

____________________________________

Subway MTA map | Straphangers interactive map | schedules | HopStop | Interactive Transit Map

Did we miss your favorite review?

Let us know: aguyinnewyork [at] gmail.com ... we're especially interested in hearing about mom and pop places from NYC bloggers ...

Link to TWIR

If you want to place a TWIR logo with a review that was featured, feel free to link to one of the banners on the TWIR page.

. . . . . . . . .

Technorati Tags: New York, NYC, Manhattan, restaurants, restaurant reviews, this week in reviews, week in reviews

Posted June 16, 2006 06:47 PM · Permalink · This Week in Reviews · Comments (0) · TrackBacks (0)

This Week in NYC Reviews - June 9, 2006

"The pleasures of the table, and of life, are infinite."
-- Julia Child

Also see our roundup of Michelin 1, 2 and 3 star restaurants with links to reviews ...

For DC restaurant reviews, see This Week in DC Reviews at Hobnob Blog, and Tyler Cowen's Ethnic Dining Guide ....

NYC Restaurant inspection results online

pushcart NYC says the kebab cart at the NW corner of 32nd Street and Broadway in Queens "is the hands-down winner in the kebabs category, serving fresh-cooked meat from noon to 6 in the morning, 7 days a week. This is a hard-core operation." ... "The meat is so perfect though, any way you have them they'd be great." ...
Slashfood agrees with our assessment of the pizza, hot dogs, and chicken bakes at Costco ... "The best place to get a cheap meal is no longer your local McDonald's, Burger King or other fast food establishment - it's Costco." ... all-beef foot-long hot dog, with drink, for $1.50 ... "the foods taste great and are an incredibly good deal" ... 18-inch pizzas for $10 ... berry smoothies for $1.55 ... no whiny emails please ...

Robert Sietsema likes Mie Jakarta ... "Next to satays, gado-gado is probably Indonesia's most famous dish, and it has been embraced throughout the island chain and in neighboring Malaysia. Mie Jakarta's version is more rudimentary than the one found at New York's Malaysian cafes, consisting mainly of shredded lettuce, bean sprouts, bean curd, a boiled egg, and decorative shrimp crackers--but what could be more perfect?" ... "The most spectacular offering is ayam rica ($6.50), a quarter fried chicken paved with a coarse red coating that, upon closer inspection, turns out to be mainly pickled chiles" ... 86-20 Whitney Avenue, Queens, 718-606-8025 [Chowhound]

The Girl Who Ate Everything liked the massive burgers and fries at Corner Bistro ... "My rare burger was fortunately cooked to my order ... a mass of soft pink innards that made me feel more carnivorous than I normally do." ... (previous review: Twenty Bucks a Day (TWIR, March 17, 2006)) ... web site, 331 West 4th Street, 212-242-9502 [A Hamburger Today | The Economist | MenuPages | NYT | NY Mag | openlist | Gayot | Yelp | Citysearch]

foodite also likes Corner Bistro ... "There's hardly a burger place with less pretensions as this West Village burger haunt that serves thick and juicy, sometimes even too-bloody, burgers on nothing more than flimsy coffee filter saucers." ... has pics of the $24.07 lunch at Gotham Bar and Grill ... web site, 12 East 12th Street, at 5th Avenue, 212-620-7810 [MenuPages | NYT | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch] ... and congratulations to foodite on starting Level 2 at The French Culinary Institute!

Savory Tidbits added 4 new videos: "Devi with Suvir Saran, Il Buco with Donna Lennard and Ed Witt, 'inoteca with Joe Denton and Eric Kleinman and Veritas with Scott Bryan."

Vittles Vamp likes the "perfectly crisp Blintzes stuffed with sweet farmer's cheese and fresh blueberries" at Teresa's ... 80 Montague Street, Brooklyn, 718-797-3996 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Mag | Citysearch]

NYC nosh warns that when eating the Carolina Pulled Pork BBQ Sandwich at Daisy May’s BBQ USA, "grab extra napkins. Let me repeat that: grab extra napkins! The bun will be soggy toward the end (i.e. not much help), and the sauce gets, well… absolutely everywhere." ... "The ‘Texas Chopped Beef Brisket’ sandwich ($9.50) arrives with meat that is so tender it falls apart as you eat it" ... says the "quality of its sides [is] a bit more uneven." ... web site, 623 11th Avenue, at West 46th Street, 212 977-1500 [White Trash BBQ | MenuPages | NYT | "The Pushcart Prize," by Carl Swanson, NY Mag | Village Voice | openlist | Gayot | Yelp | Citysearch] ... but they weren't so impressed with El Centro: "we found lots of passably decent dishes–and we ordered quite a bit of food–with nary a standout in the bunch." ... 824 Ninth Avenue, at 54th Street, 646-763-6585 [NY Mag | Citysearch]

Andrea Thompson's review of A Voce sounds ... confused ... "one evening, the duck meatballs, sour and sweet, were well received on one side of the table but dismissed on the other" ... "An entrée of black sea bass was equally divisive: to her, the fish was succulent, the broth bright and fresh, the addition of mussels and croutons a delight. To him, the plate was sparse, the fish too fishy, the vegetables too meagre." ... just the kind of place we want to go and spend $30 for fish ... no thanks ... (previous reviews: Augieland and Frank Bruni (TWIR, March 24, 2006), Andrew & Karen's web log and Big Apple Dining Guide (TWIR, March 17, 2006)) ...

Salli Vates says the sushi sashimi lunch at Restaurant Yamaguchi is "Worth the trip from Manhattan, just take the Port Washington line from Penn Station." ... "Yamaguchi is for the purist; you won't find any spicy mayonnaisey maki here, but you'll be totally fulfilled by the excellent quality of the fish." ... 63 Main Street, Port Washington, 516-883-3500 [AOL Cityguide | Citysearch]

Steve Cuozzo bemoans the loss of real Chinese restaurants and says Chinatown Brasserie "is the Disneyland version of a Chinese restaurant." ... "Mastering the techniques of fine Chinese cooking from any region - stir-frying, steaming, braising - can take a lifetime." ... "Another problem is the perception of younger New Yorkers that Chinese food, historically one of the world's healthiest cuisines, is greasy and fatty - which it often is from takeout joints that load dishes with flour to withstand a 15-block bicycle ride." ... (previous review: Off the Broiler (TWIR, June 2, 2006)) ... web site, 380 Lafayette Street, 212-533-7000

Restaurant Girl confirms that Chinatown Brasserie is "Nothing like Chinatown, this dramatically vibrant space possesses more old world opulence than all of the gritty Canal Street haunts stacked together." ... "If you close your eyes and click your heels together, you might just find yourself in Beijing" eating "a caramelized banana-topped peanut butter parfait surrounded on all sides by peanut brittle and a gentle ginger syrup" ... Oh yeah, that famous Chinese dessert, caramelized banana-topped peanut butter parfait ... uh huh ... Chinese food without the gritty Chinese haunts stacked together, and without Chinese people ... yeah, that's the ticket ... Steve Cuozzo got it right - this place attracts those looking for Disneyland ...

Augieland gave 450 gaugeillian stars to Cento Vini ... "On the whole, I would say Cento Vino has promise: all the food was of serious quality in execution and freshness. What is there at this point is simple, sometimes excellent and sometimes a little short of that, but their dishes can easily evolve as the wine list and menu fill out. It is worth mentioning that the dishes are actually appetizer size, not larger, and are on the more expensive side." ... web site, 25 West Houston Street, 212-219-2113 ... and says the food at Hearth "was as fresh, lively, light, and well made as it looks. The layers of herbs, lettuces, and aromatics are all right there to see. Feast your eyes [on the pictures in the post]." ... web site, 403 East 12th Street, 646-602-1300 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Mag | openlist | Savory NY | Gayot | Yelp | Citysearch]

Off The Broiler declares that Union Square Cafe "is as vibrant and warm and as satisfying a dining experience as the day it opened" 21 years ago ... web site, 21 East 16th Street, between Fifth Avenue and Union Square West, 212-243-4020 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Metro | Village Voice | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch]

Big Apple Dining Guide ate at SriPraPhai ... "WOW! As good as I've heard and then some. This will likely go down as one of the best dinners I'll have in New York. The flavors and balance of ingredients were incredible. Truly an eye opening and mouth watering experience. A true wake-up of the senses." ... 64-13 39th Avenue, Queens, between 64th and 65th Streets, 718-899-9599 [NYT | NY Mag | Village Voice | openlist | Savory NY | Gayot | Yelp | Citysearch]

A Hamburger Today and gothamist are hosting a Beach Burger Party on June 24, 2006, starting at 6:00 pm, at Water Taxi Beach ... details here ...

Peter Meehan writes that the cookies and pies at Pies n Thighs "are on a par with the best homemade baked goods I have ever had the fortune of eating." ... "In Pies 'n' Thighs Mr. Tanner and Ms. Buck have cobbled together a restaurant that makes their loves clear: good Southern cooking and great baked goods. It's a compelling combination, well executed and put forth with real heart -- the sort of restaurant that's hard to find, especially in the big city, but easy to love once found." ... web site, 351 Kent Avenue, Brooklyn, next to the Williamsburg Bridge, 347-282-6005 [NY Mag | NY Press | Citysearch]

Frank Bruni gave 2 stars to Dressler, which "promises, and delivers ... food that's sophisticated without being too clever, in a room that's beautiful without being too flamboyant." ... web site, 149 Broadway, Brooklyn, 718-384-6343 [MenuPages | NY Mag | Savory NY | Citysearch]

Gael Greene says "the abundant hills of tantalizing, gently priced food are real, too" at Dressler, "a joy in this era of foam and froth" ...

Twenty bucks a day says he has "disparaged the Mexican food of New York City for the last time, quite possibly" ... after eating at De Guerreros Taqueria ... "an unbelievable selection of tacos, sandwiches, and other meat-and-starch combinations at prices that will bring a smile to your face." ... 719 5th Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-499-8881 [Village Voice] ... and warns there is "some maddening variation in quality" at Pio Maya ... "Go get your chorizo tacos at a peak lunch hour, and be prepared to wait for them to make it fresh." ... 40 West 8th Street, between 5th and 6th Avenues, 212-254-2277 [NY Mag | Village Voice | Yelp | Citysearch]

Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite report that "The sixteen-seat space has seamlessly become an elegant tapas bar" at Degustation Wine & Tasting Bar ... The chef is "Wesley Genovart, a Perry St. grad who looks to be about 12" ... "Flavors, for the most part, are bold and harmonious, and often so rich that the smallish portions make perfect sense." ... 239 East 5th Street, between 2nd and 3rd Avenues, 212-979-1012 [Augieland | Yelp | Citysearch]

UPTOWN flavor says the chicken in the $2.99 snack pack at Harlem Wing And Waffle "was well seasoned and fried to perfection" ... web site, 2394 Adam Clayton Powell Blvd., Seventh Avenue and 140th Street, 212-281-1477

Veal Cheeks had lunch at Per Se ... "if my finest New York meal was at Per Se, my second finest New York meal was at Per Se as well" ... (previous review: Veal Cheeks (TWIR, January 20, 2006)) ... web site, 10 Columbus Circle, at 60th Street and 8th Avenue, Time-Warner Center, 212-823-9335 [MenuPages | NYT | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch] ... and says even if Jovia "does not provide the finest meal or even the finest lunch, it surely is the champion prix fixe. A happy occasion for tongue and wallet. Cheap at twice the price." ... (previous reviews: Frank Bruni (TWIR, December 9, 2005), Forbes (TWIR, December 2, 2005), Moira Hodgson (TWIR, November 25, 2005), Steve Cuozzo (TWIR, November 18, 2005)) ... web site, 135 East 62nd Street, at Lexington Avenue, 212-752-6000 [MenuPages | NY Mag | Savory NY | Yelp | Citysearch]

Word of Mouth likes the tapas at Las Ramblas: "Every item was a winner, which is a not-too-frequent occurrence. Each dish had very particular, bold flavors, and the chef has clearly paid great attention to seasonings and taste combinations. Nothing was timid, nothing was heavy-handed."... web site, 170 West 4th Street, 646-415-7924 [MenuPages | Citysearch]

____________________________________

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Technorati Tags: New York, NYC, Manhattan, restaurants, restaurant reviews, this week in reviews, week in reviews

Posted June 9, 2006 09:07 AM · Permalink · This Week in Reviews · Comments (0) · TrackBacks (0)

This Week in NYC Reviews - June 2, 2006

"The pleasures of the table, and of life, are infinite."
-- Julia Child

Also see our roundup of Michelin 1, 2 and 3 star restaurants with links to reviews ...

For DC restaurant reviews, see This Week in DC Reviews at Hobnob Blog, and Tyler Cowen's Ethnic Dining Guide ....

NYC Restaurant inspection results online

Robert Sietsema liked Mazorca ... "picada mixta mazorca ($18.25), an amazing square-foot haymow of meat randomized with lime wedges, lettuce, purple onions, sliced tomatoes, fibrous fried yuca, salty skin-on potatoes, and miniature masa cakes called arepitas. The meat roster includes grilled beefsteak, cumin-laced chorizo, pork ribs, and crispy pork skin. Rifling through the heap is half the fun." ... 83-17 Northern Boulevard, Queens, 718-205-2484
The Bruni Digest looks at Frank Bruni's recent review of Cafe d’Alsace ...

Off The Broiler had dinner at Chinatown Brasserie ... "serving what I would probably call 'Tweaked' American Chinese food with interesting twists, along with very hardcore Hong Kong Dim Sum." ... web site, 380 Lafayette Street, 212-533-7000 ... doesn't "really have words that can adequately describe just how amazing the pizza that Domenick DeMarco makes at" DiFara ... (previous reviews: A Year In Food (TWIR, December 2, 2005), Clareified (TWIR, August 26, 2005)) ... 1424 Avenue J, Brooklyn, 718-258-1367 [slice] ... writes that Market Cafe is "an eclectic sort of regulars neighborhood bistro joint serving really top notch food at very reasonable prices" ... 496 9th Avenue, between 37th and 38th Streets, 212-967-3892 [MenuPages | NY Mag | Village Voice | openlist | Gayot | Yelp | Citysearch]

NYC nosh visited Salud, a "mostly tapas joint just off the main drag of downtown’s rapidly changing South Street Seaport area" ... favorite dish is "paellita, or mini-paella" ... 142 Beekman Street, between Front and South Streets, 212-566-2220 [MenuPages | openlist | Yelp | Citysearch]

Veal Cheeks writes that "The jewel of the evening" at Salut Kosher Restaurant "was lagman, a lamb and noodle soup, given surprising flavor by cilantro, cumin, and a sharp taste of anise. The broth was rich and aromatic. The bowl had a distinctive taste that I will long treasure." ... 63-42 108th Street, at 63rd Road, Queens, 718-275-6860 [NY Mag]

Adam Platt gave 1 star to Quality Meats ... "In a city teeming with mediocre veal chops, the one at Quality Meats is among the best I’ve tasted, but the best dish of all was the suckling pig, cooked to a kind of melting, crackly crispness and mingled, ribs and all, with a savory apricot sauce." ... "Three stars for the room, and three stars for the suckling pig. But this is a steakhouse, and the steak is good, not great." ... web site, 57 West 58th Street, between 5th and 6th Avenues, 212-371-7777 [MenuPages | Urban Daddy | Citysearch]

Pascale Le Draoulec is grateful for Le Miu ... "Finally: An innovative Japanese restaurant that a) isn't in the Meatpacking District and b) doesn't price its sushi like diamonds." ... web site, 107 Avenue A, between 6th and 7th Streets, 212-473-3100 [MenuPages | Citysearch]

Mona's Apple likes the outdoor terrace at La Bottega despite the slow service ... "I think every New Yorker should go to La Bottega" ... web site, 88 9th Avenue, between 15th and 16th Streets, in the Maritime Hotel, 212-242-4300 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Mag | Gayot | Yelp | Citysearch] ... and "went cuckoo" for the soft-shelled crabs at Blue Water Grill ... web site, 31 Union Square West, at 16th Street, 212-675-9500 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Mag | openlist | Gayot | Yelp | Citysearch]

VittlesVamp says that although Dona "was a culinary winner" she has "no urge to return ... Quite simply, it wasn't a fit. Between its decidedly Midtown East address, over-dressed and overly-botoxed clientele and its overly-pimped decor complete with wall-to-wall zebra carpeting - reminiscent of Carmela Soprano's version of "classy" - we just couldn't take pleasure in Dona's ambience" ... (previous review: Adam Platt (TWIR, May 26, 2006)) ... web site, 208 E. 52nd Street, near Third Avenue, 212-308-0830 [Diners Journal | NY Mag | Citysearch]

The Girl Who Ate Everything says Cafe Kashkar has manty, which she describes thus: "Take a normal sized Chinese dumpling, enlarge it by 400%, inject it with Uygur superpowers and you'll get something that looks like manty." ... "these are some tasty, meat juicy dough bags" ... also liked the lamb pilaf, samsa, and the geiro lagman ... web site, 1141 Brighton Beach Avenue, Brooklyn, NY, 718-743-3832 [Twenty Bucks a Day | NY Daily News | Village Voice]

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Technorati Tags: New York, NYC, Manhattan, restaurants, restaurant reviews, this week in reviews, week in reviews

Posted June 2, 2006 09:07 AM · Permalink · This Week in Reviews · Comments (0) · TrackBacks (0)

This Week in NYC Reviews - May 26, 2006

Also see our roundup of Michelin 1, 2 and 3 star restaurants with links to reviews ...

For DC restaurant reviews, see This Week in DC Reviews at Hobnob Blog, and Tyler Cowen's Ethnic Dining Guide ....

NYC Restaurant inspection results online

Forbes gave 3 Green GOs to Philippe: "exquisite and unusual jade dumplings, great Singapore noodles, divine filet mignon and delectable Peking duck ... very expensive" (previous review: Moira Hodgson (TWIR, February 3, 2006)), web site, 33 East 60th Street, between Park and Madison Avenues, 212-644-8885 [MenuPages | NY Mag | Gayot | Citysearch] ... La Focaccia: "be sure to try the mushroom polenta" 51 Bank Street, at West 4th Street, 212-675-3754 [MenuPages | NYT | openlist | Yelp | Citysearch] ... Roberto Passon: "a charming spot at which to eat absolutely first-rate Italian fare before or after the theater." (previous review: Moira Hodgson (TWIR, Sept. 23, 2005)), web site (Flash and music), 741 Ninth Avenue, at 50th Street, 212-582-5599 [MenuPages | NY Mag | Village Voice | Yelp | Citysearch]
foodite has no complaints about the food at Chickpea ... but reports that the service is sloooooooowwwwww ... web site, 210 East 14th Street, between 2nd and 3rd Avenues, 212-254-9500

Robert Sietsema says the bean curd at En Japanese Brasserie "is indeed wonderful." ... "aji sashimi ($15) was the most remarkable special, a horse mackerel rearing up from a bed of ice, the flesh laid out in planks and curls along the length of its gray glinting body. And it's eyes were as clear as any in the former Fulton Fish Market." ... web site (Flash and music) 435 Hudson Street, 212-647-9196 [Citysearch]

Peter Meehan says Jerk City "serves exceedingly moist jerk chicken, infused with and crusted in an aromatic, lightly sweet and assertively spicy jerk seasoning" ... 3402 Church Avenue, at 34th Street, Flatbush, Brooklyn, 718-941-3800

Adam Platt gave 3 stars to Dona ... "the almond-crusted prawns and the octopus, which was simmered in red wine and served in little candy-size nuggets with peaches and salty wafers of crisped guanciale [is] exceptional" ... "The pastas are probably the weakest part of the menu" ... the "buttery, heavily truffled reprise of the tiresomely fashionable Florentine dumplings called gnudi drew gasps of wonder from the assembled gastronomes at my table and are, in fact, worth a special trip." ... web site, 208 E. 52nd Street, near Third Avenue, 212-308-0830 [Diners Journal | NY Mag | Citysearch]

Gael Greene declares that the burger at Barmarché "is a juicy triumph" ... but says the food is "Not worth a long trip perhaps, but in tune with the hood." ... web site, 14 Spring Street, at Elizabeth Street, 212-219-2399 [MenuPages | NYT | Village Voice | openlist | Yelp | Citysearch]

Andrea Thompson reviews Morimoto and Buddakan ... Buddakan: "At Buddakan, on the other hand, nothing could mitigate the unpleasantly garish atmosphere. The upstairs lounge is clogged with slick-haired men doused in cologne and young, look-alike women" ... (previous reviews: Frank Bruni (TWIR, March 24, 2006), Augieland (TWIR, March 10, 2006)) ... 75 9th Avenue, between 15th and 16th Streets, 212-989-6699 [MenuPages | Citysearch] ... Morimoto: "How much Morimoto actually contributes to putting food on the plate is unclear, but the kitchen deserves praise. The Japanese-fusion menu has its low moments: a tuna-pizza appetizer paired oddly tasteless, almost mushy fish with an unappealing anchovy aioli." ... (previous reviews: Frank Bruni (TWIR, March 24, 2006), David Rosen and Mona's Apple (TWIR, March 3, 2006), Steve Cuozzo and Augieland (TWIR, February 17, 2006), Augieland (TWIR, February 10, 2006), Augieland (TWIR, February 3, 2006)) ... web site, 88 10th Avenue, between 15th and 16th Streets, 212-989-8883 [MenuPages | NY Mag | Citysearch]

Frank Bruni gave 1 star to Sascha ... and uses old emails to "write" the review ... web site, 55 Gansevoort Street, at 9th Avenue, 212-989-1920 [Urban Daddy | NY Mag | Gayot | Citysearch]

The Bruni Digest looks at Frank Bruni's recent cross country trip ... and imagines Frank as "a pampered diner, my diet richer in squab and poorer in chili dogs than most Americans'.” ...

Veal Cheeks says his lunch at Roberto's "was hardly distressing, but the main course specials were undistinguished" ... "Entrees were moist flubs" ... "[Veal Scallopine] edged toward the sloppy and gloppy" ... 603 Crescent Avenue, near Arthur Avenue, Bronx, 718-733-9503 [NYT | NY Mag | Village Voice | Citysearch]

Andrea Strong reviews Sfoglia ... "Pastas are also just plain old wonderful—they are truly al dente, firmer than most pastas in town. Capers are the high note in a glorious ragu of Apuglian lamb and tossed with chickpeas that coats pinky-finger sized ricotta cavatelli" ... web site, 1402 Lexington Avenue, at 92nd Street, 212-831-1402 [MenuPages | NYT]

The Hedonista looks at toy food ...

NYC nosh says the Golden King Bakery serves "traditional Chinese pastry-light spongey cakes, vegetable and meat buns, and a variety of sweet-ish rolls" ... did not like the steamed pork bun ... 92 Bowery, 212-680-0138 ... and sings the praises of Cincinnati’s Aglamesis Brothers ice cream and chocolates ... web site, 3046 Madison Road, Cincinnati, OH, 513-531-5196 [Citysearch]

Twenty bucks a day continues in his quest to try all the places on Tom Sietsma's 100 best and most inexpensive list ... wanted the chicken in palm oil at Fatima, but "ended up with the proprietor-recommended hacked up fish parts in a red-brown sauce (it had a little kick) with the most enormous plate of rice I’ve ever seen" ... "The sauce was excellent and the rice was fine - I’m just not that wild about bone-in fish chopped into large chunks" ... 789 Franklin Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-221-8681 [Village Voice | Citysearch]

pushcart NYC recommends Moshie's Falafel cart on the SE corner of 46th Street and 6th Avenue ... "sit down to eat, and take the time to savor the complex layering of flavors" ...

Slashfood is inspired by KFC's Cheesy Chicken Mashed Potato Bowl ... and comes up with several variations ... we like "The Bachelor Bowl: base of microwave pizza, then leftover Chinese take-out, then salsa, finally finished by whatever's still in the 'Crisper' drawer" ...

slice has a pic of the "The coolest wedding reception EVER" ...

snack plugged the Cans Film Festival ... "the Food Bank's three-day cinema event" ...

Big Apple Dining Guide says the NY Culinary Festival was "The Story of a Disaster" ... "an awful event" ... "Truly the world's worst run event." ... but admits the food was "pretty good for the most part (of what I sampled)" ... and foodite agrees: "For the most part it was unexciting, unorganized, and most notably, not worth the $20 admission fee." ... The Girl Who Ate Everything: "If you went to the festival just to eat, your $20 were wasted" ... lovescool "was shocked at the lack of organization and selection of food vendors. Despite a few bright spots, the event was one that left more people disappointed than full" ... NY Culinary Festival web site ...

Augieland reviews the bar food at Eleven Madison Park ... the Gougères "deserve to keep their place on the bar menu" ... the "Smoked Salmon Brioche and Horseradish Cream [is] a good, solid dish that plays on the lighter side of the menu" ... and the "Grilled Cheese Pork Belly and Gruyère Réserve [are] wonderfully tender, rich, and generally succulent. An order is five tea-sized sandwiches, but the sumptuousness made one or two enough" ... web site, 11 Madison Avenue, at 24th Street, 212-889-0905 [MenuPages | NYT | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch] ... gave Home 320 habitationillian stars and described it as "A humble neighborhood place you can stop by in your commuting clothes, sit down, and have a well prepared meal much like the one you would have made yourself had time and energy been on your side." ... web site, 20 Cornelia Street, at 6th Avenue, 212-243-9579 [NYT | NY Mag | openlist | Gayot | Yelp | Citysearch] ... and gave 471 brokerillian stars to Harry's Steak ... "Dry Aged NY Strip on the Bone: Aged in-house 28 days, this was a decent steak with nice browning, not overly charred. There were both sweetness and richness, good salt and pepper, and no need to do much more to this than apply a knife and fork." ... "If there are three levels of steak house in New York, on its first night Harry’s was solidly at the top of the middle -- far better than many, and only subjugated to a few." ... 97 Pearl Street, 212-785-9200 [MenuPages]

megnut's recent dinner at Eleven Madison Park didn't start out too well: "no bread nor water nor even server for nearly fifteen minutes" ... but things improved: "The third amuse, and best presentation of anything I'd seen in a long time, was a beet and apple forest. Two kinds of beets and apples, carved into cylinders of various lengths, were standing on end, nestled together. Delicious and so artfully assembled, this was the highlight of the meal for me" ...

____________________________________

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Did we miss your favorite review?

Let us know: aguyinnewyork [at] gmail.com ... we're especially interested in hearing about mom and pop places from NYC bloggers ...

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Technorati Tags: New York, NYC, Manhattan, restaurants, restaurant reviews, this week in reviews, week in reviews

Posted May 26, 2006 06:57 AM · Permalink · This Week in Reviews · Comments (0) · TrackBacks (0)

This Week in NYC Reviews - March 24, 2006

For a roundup of DC restaurant reviews from DC food bloggers and media, see This Week in DC Reviews at Hobnob Blog ...

NYC Restaurant inspection results online

the 2006 James Beard Foundation Restaurant and Chef Awards are out ... nominees for best chef in NYC include: Dan Barber, Blue Hill; David Burke, davidburke & donnatella; Floyd Cardoz, Tabla; Gabriel Kreuther, The Modern; and David Waltuck, Chanterelle (page 11 of 11 -page pdf) ... in the mid-Atlantic: Mark Fustenberg, Breadline; Peter Pastan, Obelisk; and Fabio Trabocchi, Maestro at the Ritz-Carlton Tyson's Corner (page 10 of 11 -page pdf) .. Del Posto and The Modern are among the nominees for Best New Restaurant ... Outstanding Chef nominees include: Tom Colicchio, Craft; Alfred Portale, Gotham Bar & Grill; and Michel Richard, Citronelle (page 10 of 11 -page pdf)
Big Apple Dining Guide had lunch and a tour at Blue Hill at Stone Barns ... worth seeing the entire piece for many pics and a review of lunch ... (previous review: eat drink one woman (TWIR, January 13, 2006)) ... web site, 630 Bedford Road, Pocantico Hills, NY (just past Tarrytown), 914-366-9600 [New York | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch]

WhiteTrashBBQ reminds us about Grillin' on the Bay - NYC's first sanctioned BBQ contest this Saturday, Corner of Avenue Z and East 18th Street, Brooklyn ...

pushcart NYC says the "the beef steak and spicy pork tacos were unbelievable" at the taco truck at 96th Street and Broadway, SW corner, 917-837-6052 ...

Steve Cuozzo goes to Piano Due ... and asks, "[W]hy won't spoon-fed food writers with great influence over public taste wake up to it?" ... to which he answers: "Thank a food media that's hung up on televised chefs, 'master mixologists' and gimmicks, but is too often palate-dead." ... "Its richly spiced pasta and sauces have thrilled me since last October. Its earthbound menu moves my earth." ... "Since it opened to a brief, enthusiastic Gael Greene write-up in New York magazine, Piano Due has suffered a virtual media blackout. It has neither been reviewed in any large-circulation publication nor enjoyed the feature coverage routinely lavished on big-league openings. Cetrulo doesn't have the gift of gab of a Batali, Bobby Flay or David Burke. But he does run Scalini Fedeli in TriBeCa, recipient of a Michelin star and also one of the highest-ranked Italians in the Zagat Survey. Even if you don't place a fig of credence in either Michelin or Zagat, shouldn't the fact that both rate Scalini Fedeli so highly at least stir the curiosity of media types who rush to every Meatpacking District barn?" ... "Piano Due has no gimmicks, only some of the most sensuous Italian cooking in town." ... (previous reviews: Moira Hodgson (TWIR, November 18, 2005), Gael Greene (TWIR, October 14, 2005), David Rosen (TWIR, September 9, 2005)) ... web site, 151 West 51st Street, between 6th and 7th Avenues, 212-399-9400 [MenuPages | Citysearch] ... if the food media wants to see an interesting review, check out Big Apple Dining Guide's review of Blue Hill at Stone Barns above ... read Augieland, eat drink one woman, Veal Cheeks, Mona's Apple, NYC nosh, Twenty Bucks a Day, and Waiter Rant ... and stop reviewing the same 50 restaurants ...

David Rosen gave 3 stars to Tia Pol ... the "fluffy tortilla espanola, crispy potato bravas, delicate croquettes and garlicky chorizo [are] magically and consistently great" ... web site, 205 Tenth Avenue, between 22nd and 23rd Streets, 212-675-8805 [NYT | NY Mag | Yelp | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch]

eat drink one woman warns that at Da Andrea "Don't fill up on the generous focaccia basket with the dish of olive oil and pitted kalamatas. Instead, get those tigelles that got written up in all the initial reviews. They're still fab -- hot silver dollar flatbreads you split and fill with melty prosciutto and grated parm" ... web site, 557 Hudson Street, 212-367-1979 [NYT | NY Mag | Yelp | openlist | Citysearch]

Mona's Apple had dinner at Blue Ribbon Bakery ... asparagus vinaigrette "was perfectly cooked with a slight crispness to it with the vinaigrette drizzled on top. The vinaigrette made this dish, and now whenever I see or hear asparagus I'm going to want BR's vinaigrette to go along with it." ... "the mushroom ravioli [were] rich in mushroom and cream, like pillows of goodness." ... "the fried chicken with mash potatoes and collard greens [was] was soft and tender on the inside with a cackling crispness on the outside-just how fried chicken's supposed to be." ... "The generous filet of salmon was grilled to perfection and topped with crispy potato flake" ... web site, 33 Downing Street, at Downing Street, 212-337-0404 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Mag | Village Voice | Yelp | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch]

Augieland gave 211 lewinskibillion stars to A Voce ... "I am sorry to say I did not like it at all. I don’t say this meaning that you won’t like it, you may, but as far as my experience last night goes, they managed to do enough things exactly the opposite of how I believe they should be done that I would suggest not going." ... it looks like Augieland's 211 lewinskibillion stars is the equivalent of 1 star from Frank Bruni ... (see Bruni below for links) ... awarded 651 swellzillian stars for lunch at Cookshop ... "Wife and I shared the soup and split the Grass fed mini burgers, Vermont cheddar, onion rings, fries, chipotle ketchup & a Guss' pickle as our other appetizer. Grass-fed beef may never be as soft as wagyu or as fatty as prime, but boy is it flavorful. The accoutrements for this little slider would have walked all over the beef typically being used these days. Here, though, there is a strong matching of sharp cheddar, ketchup with the warm reminders of capsicum, and a rather sweet roll, with the very flavorful almost mineral tang of good beef." ... (previous reviews: Robert Sietsema (TWIR, March 10, 2005), Forbes (TWIR, February 10, 2006), Veal Cheeks (TWIR, February 3, 2006), Andrea Thompson (TWIR, December 16, 2005), Frank Bruni (TWIR, December 2, 2005), Hal Rubenstein (TWIR, November 18, 2005), Andrea Strong (TWIR, November 11, 2005), NYC Nosh (TWIR, October 14, 2005)) ... 156 10th Avenue, at 20th Street, 212-924-4440 [MenuPages | Yelp | Citysearch] ... attended a "vertical wines of Giacomo Conterno dinner with the wine maker Roberto Conterno at Babbo" ... "Truly great Babbo is truly inspired Italian food that sticks with the ethos that in Italy you would never use sub-par ingredients to fit a recipe but would adapt your recipe to fit your greatest ingredients. So here in America, what is best, not what is traditional, is served." ... (previous reviews: Veal Cheeks (TWIR, February 24, 2006), Big Apple Dining Guide (TWIR, October 28, 2005)) ... web site, 110 Waverly Place, 212-777-0303 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Metro | Village Voice | openlist | Yelp | Gayot | Citysearch]

NYC nosh was disappointed with Boca Chica ... "Coco Shrimp were completely enjoyable: dredged in a savory coconut batter and deep fried" ... the "Pastel de Choclo, a casserole-like dish made with chicken, tomato, golden raisins, olives, and a cornmeal topping smelled absolutely fantastic [but too] little spice and a burnt tomato taste together destroyed any chance of this dish’s success." ... "Grilled Chicken Breast with Black Beans and Avocado, should have been an easy home run, or at least a base hit. ... Yet the chicken breast’s interior was rubbery and desiccated, and worse, the cardinal sin of chicken cookery was performed to cover the dryness of the meat–the breast was served swimming in a salty lagoon of broth and oil." ... 13 1st Avenue, 212-473-0108 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Mag | Yelp | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch]

Salli Vates "made a happy discovery" at Kanoyama ... "the early-bird special" ... web site, 175 2nd Avenue, 212-777-5266 [NY Mag | Citysearch]

Forbes gives Green GOs to Piola: "pizza baked in a wood-burning oven. Crusts are thin and crispy, and the choice of toppings is dizzying" ... 48 East 12th Street, 212-777-7781 [Citysearch] ... and Pascalou: "Favorites: stuffed roast chicken and salmon Wellington" ... 1308 Madison Avenue, between 92nd and 93rd Streets, 212-534-7522 [Citysearch] ... and a Yellow CONSIDER to Manhattan Grille: "Steaks and chops are still first-rate" ... 1161 First Avenue, between 63rd and 64th Streets, 212-888-6556 ... [Citysearch]

Moira Hodgson gave 2 stars to Urena ... "began with a superb confit of rabbit leg shredded in strips, topped with sliced shiitake mushrooms and served with cauliflower purée. An equally wonderful Spanish onion–tamarind purée graced two seared, rare scallops on a smoky chorizo sauce" ... "had no quarrel with the halibut I’d ordered" ... "Mahi-mahi with portobello mushrooms ... looked as though it had washed up on the edge of New York harbor: It was a bit of a mush. But tender chunks of steamed lobster on a bed of pickled rhubarb purée with glazed salsify were great" ... (previous reviews: Veal Cheeks and Adam Platt (TWIR, March 3, 2006), Augieland (TWIR, February 10, 2006)) ... 37 East 28th Street, between Lexington Avenue and Park Avenue South, 212-213-2328 [eGullet | NY Metro | Citysearch]

The Girl Who Ate Everything had fruit waffles for brunch at Smorgas Chef ... "it was good! Apple, pear, strawberry, and blueberry" ... (previous review: Big Apple Dining Guide (TWIR, January 27, 2006)) ... web site, 53 Stone Street, 212 422 3500 [MenuPages | Village Voice | Yelp | openlist | Citysearch] ... and "went to Bouchon Bakery on opening day" ... "The brioche was pretty much perfect; light, airy, eggy, tasty." ... Time Warner Center, 10 Columbus Circle, at 59th Street, fourth floor, 212-823-9366 [NY Mag]

Peter Gianotti says Luigi Q is "an Italian restaurant defined as much by the generous, personable owner as it is by the bright, flavorful food" ... recommends the seafood ... 400 South Oyster Bay Road, Hicksville, 516-932-7450 [NYT]

Twenty bucks a day is addicted to the sandwiches at Alidoro ... "A better context in which to sample the prosciutto is in the Mischa ($9.50), which features that meat with provolone, hot peppers with a good balance of spice to flavor, and the ubiquitous arugula, which is always exceedingly fresh" ... and likes "the semolina [bread], which is crusty on the outside, soft on the inside, and has a strong flavor to match its outer dusting of sesame seeds" ... 105 Sullivan Street, between Spring and Prince Streets, 212-334-5179 [NY Mag | Village Voice | Yelp] ... and doesn't sound like he'll go back to Cono and Sons O’Pescatore ... "if one wants old-school Italian-American cuisine, it would be better to save money for a splurge at Roberto’s in the Bronx rather than half-ass it at Cono’s or something like it" ... 301 Graham Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-388-0168 [Village Voice | openlist] ... and is "jealous of people who work near Union Square" because of Ennju ... "a serious contender for best 'fast' Japanese food in the city" ... 20 East 17th Street, between 5th Avenue and Broadway, 646-336-7004 [Village Voice | openlist]

Frank Bruni goes to A Voce: loved the "quartet of meatballs made from duck leg meat, foie gras and pork" ... (previous reviews: Andrew & Karen's web log and Big Apple Dining Guide (TWIR, March 17, 2006)) ... web site, 41 Madison Avenue, at 26th Street, 212-545-8555 [Citysearch] ... and Buddakan: "One of our favorites among the dishes we did try was arguably one of the least fanciful: crispy Cantonese spring rolls with shrimp, chicken and bamboo shoots." ... (previous reviews: Augieland (TWIR, March 10, 2006)) ... 75 9th Avenue, between 15th and 16th Streets, 212-989-6699 [MenuPages | Citysearch] ... Industria Argentina: "succulent short ribs and rack of lamb were much better than an “Andean corn and seafood chowder,” which didn’t have much seafood in it, or a smoked pumpkin risotto, which didn’t have much flavor" ... (previous review: Pascale Le Draoulec (TWIR, February 24, 2006)) ... 329 Greenwich Street, between Duane and Jay Streets, 212-965-8560 [MenuPages | Citysearch] ... Kellari: "young goat, or kid, braised in yogurt [was] one of its best dishes" ... 19 West 44th Street, near Fifth Avenue, 212-221-0144 [OpenTable] ... and gave 1 star to Morimoto ..."The appeal of the dishes at Morimoto, like their ethnic associations, was all over the place, due in part to their frantic nature and in part to the kitchen's uneven performance." ... "a roasted lobster was overcooked, as was just about all of the shellfish, including shrimp and crab" ... "high concept repeatedly supplanted sound judgment, resulting in dishes more amusing to behold than to ingest" ... "Although plenty expensive, Morimoto is an often undisciplined restaurant, prone to silliness and crammed with servers whose extraordinary friendliness didn't mask their mistakes." ... (previous reviews: David Rosen and Mona's Apple (TWIR, March 3, 2006), Steve Cuozzo and Augieland (TWIR, February 17, 2006), Augieland (TWIR, February 10, 2006), Augieland (TWIR, February 3, 2006)) ... web site, 88 10th Avenue, between 15th and 16th Streets, 212-989-8883 [MenuPages | NY Mag | Citysearch]

Adam Platt also went to Morimoto ... "There is the varied sushi menu (the fish is flown in four times weekly from the Tsukiji market in Tokyo), which even my most effete sushi-snob friends conceded was irreproachable. There is the main menu, which is filled with clunky but often enjoyable riffs on simple Asian dishes (Korean bibimbap made with yellowtail tuna, pork gyoza dunked in crème fraîche). And there is the chef’s special omakase menu, which features Japanese fusion cooking of the highest kind, designed to be enjoyed while sitting in zaisu chairs with your shoes off, at the elite 'omakase bar.'” ... the "signature tempura is possibly one of the most grisly things I’ve ever tasted (the batter is thick and greasy, and there’s a pot of oily Gorgonzola sauce on the side). But there’s also plenty of intriguing food on the menu" ... including "lumps of soft buffalo mozzarella with slices of the freshest salmon or octopus ... lamb carpaccio with a rich ginger-scallion sauce [and] a poached-lobster salad (with a soy beurre blanc) that’s as good as anything at the hoity-toity Continental restaurants uptown" ... "'Japanese Bouillabaisse' is worth ordering solely for the delicious broth made with sake and red miso. Best of all, however, is the 'Duck, Duck, Duck,' an inspired postmodern dissertation on the wonders of Peking duck, composed of a single duck leg cooked in the classic Peking style, a duck egg, and a roast-duck sandwich made not with Chinese pancakes but with a croissant infused with foie gras." ... the omakase menu "costs $120 and is worth every penny" ...

Nick Paumgarten says "there is something preposterous about Del Posto" ... "The extreme pomp of the place--the footstools for ladies’ purses, the high-tea piano music, the miles of marble, the fleets of flatware--can feel like a put-on, as though this were the setting for a reality show in which celebrity chefs compete to see who can charge out-of-towners the most for offal" ... (previous reviews: Frank Bruni (TWIR, March 3, 2006), Steve Cuozzo (TWIR, February 17, 2006), David Rosen (TWIR, February 3, 2006)), Andrea Strong (TWIR, January 20, 2006)) ... 85 Tenth Avenue, between 15th Street and 16th Streets, 212-497-8090 [MenuPages | NY Mag | Village Voice | Citysearch]

Pascale Le Draoulec also went to Del Posto ... "While there were moments and dishes at Del Posto that were indeed transcendent, too many were merely 'good,' given the price and pageantry of the place, starting with a whooaaa-Nelly $29 valet parking service." ... Peter says if you want good Italian food, cook at home ... where you're already parked ...

Christine Muhlke has some "highlights of my cross-country feeding frenzy," reporting on the highs and lows of restaurants on a drive from San Francisco to NYC ... and says Avec in Chicago is "Noisy, but worth a plane ticket just for the wild boar with pappardelle" ... web site, 615 West Randolph Street, Chicago, IL, 312-377-2002 ... [MetroMix | NYT | Chicago Tribune | Yelp | Chicago Reader | openlist | CenterStage | Gayot | Citysearch]

Jean Tang has an advertising roundup of "Indian bistros" ... "There's a new form of Indian restaurant in town, and it's the bistro. Sure, the curry houses of yore are still around, but the old-style traditional tackiness is now replaced with minimalist design, campy drinks, groovy soundtracks and tongue-in-cheek menus." ... Mint: "biryani, not steak frites, is one of the house specialties" ... 150 East 50th Street, 212-644-8888 [Citysearch] ... Leela Lounge: "dishes are typically authentic, but tweaked to Western tastes" ... 1 West Third Street, 212-529-2059 [Citysearch] ... Moksha: "Moksha's food, created by ex-Tamarind chef Peter Beck, is remarkable" ... 18 Murray Street, 212-608-0707 [Citysearch] ... Yuva: "the tandoor - which makes up a startling quarter of the menu - sends out remarkably charred-tender food" ... 230 East 58th Street, 212-339-0090 [Citysearch] ... Bombay Talkie: a "two-level paean to street food and Indian pop culture" ... 189 Ninth Avenue, 212-242-1900 [Citysearch] ...

VittlesVamp reminds us that Spring Has Sprung (Shake Shack is open) ... and says "pork rinds dipped in white chocolate ... is long overdue for a quickie divorce" at Compass ... (previous reviews: The Hungry Rose (TWIR, January 20, 2006), Frank Bruni (TWIR, November 25, 2005)) ... web site, 208 West 70th Street, between Amsterdam Avenue and West End Avenue, 212-875-8600 [MenuPages | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch]

A Hamburger Today comments on Shake Shack opening: "And the line no doubt goes down the block. It's good, people, but come on." ... we agree ... try Tony Dragonas' grilled hamburger ...

Amateur Gourmet liked the coconut samosas at Milon ... "The food was decent [but] the environment and decor (have I mentioned the decor?) made up for it." ... 93 1st Avenue, 212-228-4896 [MenuPix | NY Mag (scroll down to 23) | Yelp | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch]

Rachel Wharton interviewed Tim Zagat ... "[W]hen it comes to eating out, says Tim Zagat, the man behind the famous restaurant guides, bad service is what ticks us off. When filling out surveys for the 2006 city guide, he says, a whopping 49% of New Yorkers named bad service - mostly attitude, inattentiveness, reservation issues and waiting - their No. 1 grumble. 'It's by far the largest,' says Zagat of this category of complaints, noting that it would have been even higher if we weren't getting increasingly fed up with noise and crowds (32%) and the cost of eating in the most expensive dining destination in the country (14%)." ...

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Posted March 24, 2006 08:37 AM · Permalink · This Week in Reviews · Comments (0) · TrackBacks (0)

This Week in NYC Reviews - March 17, 2006

This weeks TWIR is lighter than usual because we've been spending a lot of time working as a volunteer on a U10-U15 girls invitational soccer tournament. We apologize if we missed your review, but look for a regular TWIR next week.

For a roundup of DC restaurant reviews from DC food bloggers and media, see This Week in DC Reviews at Hobnob Blog ...

NYC Restaurant inspection results online

If you want to know how hard some wait staff work, read this from Waiter Rant ...
Augieland gave 444 againijrillian stars to Cru ... "The fish was fantastic, the pheasant was perfect but the best part was the asparagus with the veal. Sweet and fresh and unlike any other I had." ... (previous reviews: Veal Cheeks (TWIR, February 24, 2006), Augieland (TWIR, February 17, 2006)) ... web site, 24 5th Avenue, at West 9th Street, 212-529-1700 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Mag | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch] ... and 630 bestozillian stars to Taim for the "Best Falafel I have had in NY" ... 222 Waverly Place, 212-691-1287 [MenuPages | NY Mag | Citysearch]

CityRag is "totally addicted to the heavenly pizza made with vodka sauce from" Lazzara's ... web site, 221 West 38th Street, 212-944-7792 [MenuPages | NY Mag | openlist | Citysearch]

Salli Vates says Cheeks Bakery "sells delicious goods which are made exclusively with organic eggs and rBst-free milk"... web site, 378 Metropolitan Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-599-3583

Peter Meehan says El Centro "has some significant shortcomings on the menu, including its tacos and many of its seafood dishes, which seemed dashed off with unintegrated flavors" ... but the "dishes that kept me going back for more were the posole and any version of chilaquiles with meat." ... 824 Ninth Avenue, at 54th Street, 646-763-6585 [NY Mag | Citysearch]

Andrew & Karen's web log ate at A Voce and "on its third official night in business, we found it to be kink-free" ... "Lamb Shank Tortellini [:] It may have been the lemon that provided the 'je ne sais quoi' that put the dish over the top." ... web site, 41 Madison Avenue, at 26th Street, 212-545-8555 [Citysearch]

Big Apple Dining Guide also went to A Voce ... "Service was perfect. I can't believe how well this place is running after just a week or so of being open. [And] the food was delicious as well" ... "the Lamb Shank Tortellini [was] very good. The warm tomatoes were incredible as they popped and melted in your mouth" ...

Irene Sax reports that at Yuva Frontier Indian Grille "The music is Western, the cocktails strong, and the small room pleasantly dark" ... "the real action is in the tandoor" ... "Rack of lamb cut into chops, drenched in yogurt and cooked in the tandoor stayed miraculously rare. Salmon fillet was bright pink in the center, charred on the outside and totally blah in flavor." ... "the naan was wonderfully charred and chewy, so hot that we could barely pull it apart when it came fresh from the oven." ... "prices mount rapidly when you order from a steakhouse-like menu, where everything is à la carte. It hurts to pay $5 for a bowl of rice that was not enough for the four of us." ... 230 East 58th Street, between 2nd and 3rd Avenues, 212-339-0090 [MenuPages | Citysearch]

Mona's Apple "can't really rate" Salt as she "was abnormally polite that night, and did not insist on trying everything that came to the table" ... " appetizer was the slow roasted eggplant, beet tartare and blue cheese fondue ... eggplant and beet combination worked really well and the blue cheese gobs meshed it all together. The eggplant was perfectly cooked and maintained a soft but not soggy texture. I think I left a squeaky clean plate." ... "entree was the grilled Newport steak with mashed potatoes and roasted Brussels sprouts. Both dishes were excellent." ... web site, 58 Macdougal Street, between Prince and Houston Streets, 212-674-4968 [NYT | NY Mag | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch]

Frank Bruni gave a Satisfactory rating to P.J. Clarke's On The Hudson ... "It does nothing spectacularly well. It does some things badly." ... "16-ounce rib-eye or that 36-ounce T-bone, both slightly charred, very juicy and just fatty enough when I tried them." ... web site, 4 World Financial Center, near the intersection of Vesey Street and the West Side Highway, 212-285-1500 [MenuPages | Citysearch]

Twenty Bucks A Day finally had dinner at Queen's Hideaway ... "Arriving on our table roughly concurrently were peanuts, boiled with what looked like dried red chiles. My girlfriend exclaimed her excitement and explained that boiled peanuts are a southern roadside staple. I’m pretty sure I like the Fenway ballpark peanuts better, but I suppose that’s what the Waffle-House-IHOP line will do for a relationship." ... "oyster casserole ($16), which promised to include artichoke hearts, chestnuts, and leeks [was] good, particularly the oyster parts, but [the] rest seemed a bit mush-like." ... "I was more impressed with my pulled pork dish ($17) – it wouldn’t surprise me to hear that the proprietor had smoked it herself, and it was served in two amazing crepe-like cornmeal cakes, making these the best dry enchiladas I’ve had, possibly ever." ... 222 Franklin Street, near Green Street, Greenpoint, Brooklyn, 718-383-2355 [NYT | NY Mag | Yelp
| Citysearch] ... and didn't quite make it to Hadramout ... (previous review: Robert Sietsema (TWIR, December 16, 2005)) ... says Corner Bistro "is unlikely to please your neat freak friends" ... but has, "hands down, the best burger I’ve ever been served in a restaurant." ... "the Bistro has thus far slain the legendary Shake Shack, the well-regarded Burger Joint, the less-regarded mini-Burger Joint, the also-miniature burgers of Schnack, Roll N’ Roaster’s old-time fast-food-style sandwich, the faux-Californian Blue 9, the late and lamented McHale’s, the eponymous Goodburger…plus probably dozens of places you’ve never heard of in cities across the nation." ... web site, 331 West 4th Street, 212-242-9502 [A Hamburger Today | MenuPages | NYT | NY Mag | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch] ... 172(d) Atlantic Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-852-3577 ... but ended up at Yemen Cafe instead, where he had "an admirable rack of baby lamb arrive on the side of my salta. It wasn’t roasted in your grandmother’s style and served with mint jelly, mind you, but the meat was falling off the bone and flavorful without being skanky" ... "Better was my roommate’s 'special Yemeni fateh,' a stew made with diced lamb and day-old pita" ... but "The best part of the meal was absolutely the pita bread" ... 176 Atlantic Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-834-9533 [zabihah | Village Voice | Citysearch]

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Posted March 17, 2006 09:57 AM · Permalink · This Week in Reviews · Comments (0) · TrackBacks (1)

This Week in NYC Reviews - March 10, 2006

For a roundup of DC restaurant reviews from DC food bloggers and media, see This Week in DC Reviews at Hobnob Blog ...

NYC Restaurant inspection results online

Waiter Rant has some good observations and some good advice for young men ...
The Impetuous Epicure had a "really creamy (ie:Rich and fat-full) and delicious" quiche at Patisserie Claude ... but the croissants, oh, the croissants ... "what a first bite it was! The crisp skin gave way to a multi-layered heaven. I could have teared up and broke down into joyful tears." ... "Monsieur Claude! You must be trying to take over the world with these croissants! But for these, the world is worth it!" ... 187 West 4th Street, 212-255-5911 [food-plan | NY Mag | Citysearch]

slice has a nice overview of pizza in NYC ... "classic Neapolitan-American pies, made in coal-fired brick ovens with fresh mozzarella. New York has Lombardi's " ... "Then there's the New York City whole-pie culture that utilizes gas ovens. Estimable pies come our of the ovens of Denino's in Staten Island, Mario's in the Bronx, and Nick's Pizza in Forest Hills, Queens, and the Upper East Side of Manhattan." ... "Interested in individually sized, Neapolitan-inspired pies that come out of a wood-buming oven? New York has those, too, starting with La Pizza Fresca in the Flatiron district, Celeste on the Upper West Side, Naples 45 in Grand Central for commuters in need of a good pizza fix, and Caserta Vecchia and Franny's in Brooklyn" ... read the whole thing ...

Augieland says his first wine dinner at Tribeca Grill "was great. It was well organized, going as far as presenting each wine with an identifying label on the glass's base. The food was all good, the highlights being the passed appetizers during the cocktail hour." ... web site, 375 Greenwich Street, corner of Franklin Street, 212-941-3900 [NYT | NY Mag | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch] ... gave 882 liveatjrllian stars to Buddakan New York ... "The food is interesting, if not daring. These are the well-heeled versions of flavors you know, more Asian-themed or inspired than Asian." ... "was most pleased with the dish that had a direct correlation in the more familiar versions of Chinese restaurants, the Crab Fried Rice. The rice was soft, the eggs were fluffy, the crab was real and sweet, each thing showed its own flavor and the whole tied together harmoniously. The Shaken Chili Beef Tartare was fantastic" ... "I found the Lobster Dumplings hard to handle and thought the Black Beans Lobster was a little dull, but the people next to me chose the lobster as their favorite dish" ... 75 9th Avenue, between 15th and 16th Streets, 212-989-6699 [Citysearch] ... gave Jack Bistro 280 notyettjillian stars ... the "Moules with fennel cream sauce in the appetizer size [was] not quite cooked to our preferences so we sent them back for a couple more minutes in the pan. On there second coming they were nice." ... "It is too close to my house, too early to judge, and pretty cheap by neighborhood standards, so I may go back again for a second look, but I won’t do it enthusiastically." ... 80 University Place, at 11th Street ... and gave 433 homonymillian stars to Gilt ... "Someone has decided to wedge one of the most modern chefs in NY into one of the most traditional and staid rooms in town." ... had the chef's tasting menu: "the food is both creative and exact. There was great technique and very sound method. Great balance and subtlety was omnipresent while dishes benefited from new methods like the process to powder a chorizo. Somehow, I was let down though." ... "The truth is the food is fantastic, and I will go back soon to see it without the weight of expectation. I wanted Dali, I got Van Gogh. In general, I probably much prefer Van Gogh, unless I thought I was going to a Dali show." ... "At this point I am sure of two things: Paul Liebrandt is a great chef, and $25 is RIDICUOUS money for a cocktail." ... (previous reviews: Adam Platt (TWIR, February 17, 2006), Frank Bruni (TWIR, February 10, 2006), Steve Cuozzo, David Rosen, Gael Greene (TWIR, January 20, 2006)) ... web site, 455 Madison Avenue, at 50th Street, 212-891-8100 [NYT | Citysearch]

Peter Meehan says Little Dishes "is the sort of restaurant any neighborhood would be happy to call its own." ... "a massive, meaty lamb shank [was] braised to unctuous tenderness and a burnished glow, scattered with rosemary and served over pan-fried spaetzle studded through with black olives." ... 434 Seventh Avenue (15th Street), Park Slope, Brooklyn, 718-369-3144

A Hamburger Today had a playful week ...two perfect foods combined: "Krispy Kreme Bacon Cheeseburgers" ... yuck (too furry): "Cat Burger" ... "Body by Burgers" ... no burgers on Friday for us, it's Lent ...

Paul Lukas writes about the "Dames of Beef" ... "a dozen rather fabulous women [who dress] in 1940's and 50's dresses, vintage hats, jeweled brooches, Art Deco earrings, black-seamed stockings and lots of bright red lipstick" ... "12 retro-minded women who get together every few months to patronize the city's vanishing old-school restaurants" ... sounds like fun ...

Twenty bucks a day says the dosas from Pongal are "a bit soggy when delivered, their spicing is impeccable." ... web site, 1154 1st Avenue, 212-355-4600 [Citysearch]

The Girl Who Ate Everything finally got to Katz's Delicatessen and had a corned beef sandwich ... "I've never seen a sandwich like this in real life before. Thick slices of tender meat that practically fell apart just from my wide eyed gaze" ... "Although I though that the corned beef was great, the pastrami beat it down with a gigantic 'haha, I'm tastier than you' mallet; yeah, it was better. With mayo, it was even better than better" ... web site, 205 East Houston Street, 212-254-2246 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Mag | Village Voice | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch] ... and would much rather have the hot chocolate at Jacques Torres ... but went to Joe, "the art of coffee" instead ... and had the spicy "European drinking chocolate" ... "had a great tatse [but it] isn't something you can comfortably drink. It's not quite pudding and it's not quite a liquid you can sip from a cup." ... looks like sin in a cup to us ... web site, 9 East 13th Street, 212-924-7400 [NY Mag | openlist | Citysearch] ... Jacques Torres: web site, 350 Hudson Street at King Street, 1 block South of Houston, 212-414-2462 ... also at 66 Water Street, between the Brooklyn and Manhattan Bridges, Brooklyn, 718-875-9772 [NYT | NY Mag | Village Voice | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch]

New York Magazine posted its Best of NY Food: 2006 ...

cityrag writes that "If you're looking for a yummy multi-course meal with paired wines, but don't want to break the bank, check out L'Ecole at The French Culinary Institute." ... "The food is very good, not exceptional, but very tasty, a little inventive, and fresh." ... web site, 462 Broadway, 212-219-3300 [NYT | NY Mag | openlist | Citysearch]

Peter Gianotti visits a classic, L'Endroit ... "And everyone seems content. The mild onion soup laced with Calvados might have something to do with it. Likewise, the penne in a hearty veal ragu. Or the neatly manicured asparagus au gratin." ... "Calf's liver, sauteed with shallots, herbs and white wine, is textbook correct, and recommended. The steak au poivre, in a lush Cognac-black peppercorn sauce, extols tradition with flair, plus two spears of carefully trimmed asparagus. Filet mignon, treated similarly to the liver, is equally fine." ... web site, 290 Glen Cove Road, East Hills, NY, 516-621-6630 [NYT | openlist]

pushcart NYC says the wraps at From Atlantis With Love are "a savory melange, a robust torpedo wrapped in a tortilla and two layers of tinfoil, enough food for a meal now and a snack later. Enough to launch a story of its own." ... East 2nd Street at the Bowery [Village Voice] ... and the cart on the NW corner of Forsyth Street and Division is "Heaven 'on the Stick'" ... "It's just this -- the fresh flavor of the meat, the perfect juice inside and the sweet fats brought to the surface by the intense heat of the coals. Simple. Simple and perfect." ...

NYC nosh is glad the menu changed at Marseille ... "foie gras with grilled toast batons was smokey and very smooth, tasting rich without being too fatty on the palate [and the] hangar stake was also a real treat, served with very crispy, thinly-sliced shallots" ... web site, 630 9th Avenue, at 44th Street, 212-333-2323 [NYT | NY Mag | Village Voice | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch]

Lauren Collins went to Hong Kong Station ... "Since the dishes are mix-and-match, like a liquid salad bar, there are many choices to be made, and, since the ordering is done cafeteria-style, they have to be made quickly so as not to antagonize those waiting in the (often long) line." ... "pig’s feet, served on the bone, are a spicy treat, although they might be even better if you could eat them blindfolded. Most beloved is the 'faux fin soup,' made with filaments of pork and mushroom instead of shark fin." ... (previous reviews: NYC nosh (TWIR, February 3, 2006), Plate of the Day) ... 128 Hester Street, east of Bowery, 212-966-9382 [NY Metro]

Adam Platt looked at 5 instant dinners ... and concluded that 2 were Tasty: FreshDirect Fresh Dining Smart and Simple Massaman Chicken Curry and South Beach Diet Cashew Chicken ... 2 were Edible: Smart Ones Grilled Chicken and Healthy Choice Grilled Turkey Breast ... and 1 was Bad: Lean Cuisine Salmon With Basil ...

Joshua Bernstein reviews Pho Grand, using way too many unappetizing words, which makes us wonder where his editor was ... "options number more than a dozen, running from flank steak to omosa (tripe) to chewy tendon. I favor the duo of fingernail-thin slices of eye of round and brisket. The round is served rare, still cooking in the just-below-boiling broth, while sloppy brisket chunks are fatty and flavorful." ... 277C Grand Street, between Forsyth and Eldridge Streets, 212-965-5366 [NYT | Village Voice | openlist | Citysearch]

Robert Sietsema reports that the entrees at Cookshop range "from mediocre to pretty damn good" ... "Pretty damn good describes an entrée of Vermont suckling pig, on a menu that subscribes to the modern mania for identifying raw materials by source—as if you cared that the asparagus, say, came from the Marquis de Sade Organic Farms in Piscataway, New Jersey." ... "Aside from making too much of beans and, in an Atkinsy way too common today, substituting root vegetables where potatoes or noodles should be, the menu chugs along in a predictable fashion through a far-flung terrain of soups and salads and steaks and chicken and fish." ... "But here is what I love about Cookshop. At the top of a menu is a category called Snacks. Priced around $5, these small savory dishes are not only delicious, but solve many dining dilemmas." ... (previous reviews: Forbes (TWIR, February 10, 2006), Veal Cheeks (TWIR, February 3, 2006), Andrea Thompson (TWIR, December 16, 2005), Frank Bruni (TWIR, December 2, 2005), Hal Rubenstein (TWIR, November 18, 2005), Andrea Strong (TWIR, November 11, 2005), NYC Nosh (TWIR, October 14, 2005)) ... 156 10th Avenue, at 20th Street, 212-924-4440 [MenuPages | Citysearch]

Joan Reminick says "all the Italian words [are] spelled correctly" on the menu at Pronto ... "the food is imbued with the kind of honest rusticity that might lead one to (wrongly in this case) suspect a caring nonna in the kitchen." ... was "impressed with gamberi prosciutto, marinated shrimp wrapped in prosciutto and baked to salty succulence." ... "Our friendly waiter suggested ordering chicken scarpariello, which wasn't on the menu. What came was a classic saute of chicken and sausage, herbal and garlicky, given an unusual twist by the addition of crisp fried zucchini on top." ... 111 Deer Park Avenue, Babylon, NY, 631-422-7955

Frank Bruni gave 1 star to Blaue Gans ... "For a satisfying entree, a whole brook trout is sautéed, festooned with capers, fringed with carrots and bathed in creamed kohlrabi, a turniplike root vegetable." ... "Of the restaurant's many presentations of sausage, two were especially good. A pale pork and veal sausage, served with sweet mustard and a soft, salty pretzel, had the lightness of mousse. A mash of blood sausage and fingerling potatoes was molded into a circle and placed on a roomy bed of sauerkraut." ... (previous reviews: Maria Hodgson (TWIR, February 17, 2006), Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld (TWIR, January 20, 2006)) ... 139 Duane Street, between West Broadway and Church Street, 212-571-8880 [MenuPages | NYT | Citysearch]

The Bruni Digest opines that Frank Bruni "seems to have stumbled upon a pleasant if uninspiring sibling of Kurt Gutenbrunner's more celebrated culinary endeavors, not so much a delightfully nostalgic re-run of a fresh new formula as a rough distillation of themes and ingredients that have already regaled dining audiences in more sophisticated forms. Let's call Blaue Gans 'The Nanny' to Thor's 'Who's the Boss?'" ...

Andrea Strong says El Bocadito is "tiny but it’s got a big heart (and great food)." ... "the horacha--a wide long rectangular tortilla sheet that was topped with tender shredded steak, a creamy white hot sauce and then smothered with a beautiful bubbly mess of melted cheese" was excellent ... 79 Orchard Street, between Broome and Grand, 212-343-3331 [NYT | Gayot | Citysearch]

Steve Cuozzo reports that Peacock Alley "launched with much hoopla after a $5.5 million redesign last fall, pulled in its feathers [because] Not enough people wanted to eat Tovar's $30 entrees in a prefab-looking lobby restaurant amidst noisy Texans and piles of luggage." ... "Yet, while Peacock Alley has all the buzz of a half-empty tour bus, Country is so swamped with demand for tables it's had to limit the number of bookings [and] There's excitement - not pandemonium - in the air, and it compounded the pleasure I took in Zakarian's $85, four-course, prix-fixe menu." ... Peacock Alley: ( previous review: Owen Phillips (TWIR, March 3, 2006)) ... web site, 301 Park Avenue, 212-872-7335 [NYT | openlist | Citysearch] ... (see how Peacock Alley got its name) ... Country: (previous reviews: Pascale Le Draoulec (TWIR, January 20, 2006), Frank Bruni (TWIR, October 28, 2005)) ... 90 Madison Avenue, at 29th Street (in the Carlton Hotel), 212-889-7100 [MenuPages | Gayot | Citysearch]

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Posted March 10, 2006 09:22 AM · Permalink · This Week in Reviews · Comments (0) · TrackBacks (1)

This Week in NYC Reviews - March 3, 2006

For a roundup of DC restaurant reviews from DC food bloggers and media, see This Week in DC Reviews at Hobnob Blog ...

NYC Restaurant inspection results online

A Guy in New York says the best Malaysian restaurant you never heard of is Sanur ...
Jean Tang recommends the dumplings at 4 dumpling places ... Fried Dumpling: "The boiled pork dumplings here (Sui Jiao or Jiao Ze) are still ideal - chewy wrappers with juicy, greaseless filling." .... 99 Allen Street, 212-941-9975 [Citysearch] ... China North Dumpling: "an ugly dumpling saved by an irresistible constitution." ... 15 Essex Street, 212-529-2760 [Village Voice] ... Kingdom of Pancakes: "dumplings are hearty, with chew and flavor. Lingering, we couldn't resist Chen's rustic beef noodle soup, homemade noodles and tender stew beef in rich, peppery pork stock" ... 7 Allen Street, 212-966-5658 [Photo of front by My Life As A Contact Sheet] ... Dumpling House: "better known for its sandwiches, $1.50, deep-fried sesame pancakes stuffed with grated carrot, fresh cilantro and cold sliced beef" ... 118A Eldridge Street, 212-625-8008 [Citysearch] ... Dumpling Man: "the leanest, healthiest and densest dumplings we tasted, little virtuosic miracles with thin, delicate skins, vegetable-laden fillings, and a remarkable absence of grease" ... web site, 100 St. Marks Place, 212-505-2121 [Citysearch] ... Plump Dumpling: "disappointing, but owner Peter Day estimates that dumplings are 50% of his business. The Malaysian buys fresh vegetables from Chinatown every morning, and has released a new menu highlighting items like curry noodle soup, wontons with a weirdly delicious peanut-butter sesame sauce, and eggplant stir-fries." ... 299 East 11th Street, 212-254-2868 [NY Mag]

Slashfood likes the "Bosna Burger, or pljeskavica" at Bosna Express ... "The hubcap-sized burger barely fits onto the plastic plate it's served on." ... and is "mindbogglingly good" ... 791 Fairview Avenue, Queens, 718-497-7577 [Village Voice] (there is also a Bosna Express at 3129 12th Street, Long Island City, Queens - Robert Sietsma review in TWIR, August 5, 2005) ...

Forbes gives Green GOs to Lentini: "One of the best traditional Italian eateries on the Upper East Side" ... 1562 Second Avenue, at 81st Street, 212-628-3131 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Mag | openlist | Citysearch] ... and La Petite Auberge: "offers delicious, well-prepared French food" ... web site, 116 Lexington Avenue, at 28th Street, 212-689-5003 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Mag | openlist | Citysearch] ... and a Yellow CONSIDER to Koi: "may be the most obnoxious spot in town. No one should have to wait 45 minutes for a confirmed reservation" ... Bryant Park Hotel, 40 West 40th Street, 212-642-2100 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Mag | Gayot | Citysearch]

David Rosen describes Morimoto as "a Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde restaurant" ... "The benevolent Dr. Jekyll is represented by the omakase menu; Omakase literally translates from Japanese as: 'I am in your hands.' By relinquishing our order to the chef, we taste a silky tuna-toro tartare; a tender tempura-squid salad; some crispy rock-shrimp tempura; an ethereal grouping of oysters, foie gras and sea urchin; a zesty lobster Èpice; a well-braised codfish in ginger-and-soy sauce and a divine chocolate torte. Mr. Hyde makes his appearance on a second visit, when we decide to order ý la carte. Tasteless yellowtail tartare is further neutralized by a myriad of assertive sauces served in small, square wooden molds. The yellowtail pastrami also succumbs to the spices that encrust the fish. The tuna pizza is as dry as sandpaper." ... (previous reviews: Steve Cuozzo and Augieland (TWIR, February 17, 2006), Augieland (TWIR, February 10, 2006), Augieland (TWIR, February 3, 2006)) ... web site, 88 10th Avenue, between 15th and 16th Streets, 212-989-8883 [MenuPages | NY Mag | Citysearch]

Mona's Apple also went to Morimoto ... after seeing the chef in the kitchen, "My night could have ended there and I didn't even taste a piece of food yet" ...

Owen Phillips writes that Peacock Alley in the Waldorf-Astoria "is now part of the Art Deco lobby [and] With all the racket, it might as well have been a Greyhound-station waiting room." ... "the deep pleasure of the braised pork cheeks with garganelli pasta and a guanciale-and-Parmesan emulsion" ... web site, 301 Park Avenue, 212-872-7335 [NYT | openlist | Citysearch] ... (see how Peacock Alley got its name)

Peter Meehan took a 30-minute walk from the Staten Island Ferry to Nürnberger Bierhaus ... "the sauerbraten [is] not a dish that I'd swim the Kill Van Kull for, but it is a fair rendition of the German classic." ... "I might skip appetizers altogether and hold out for the massive 'wurstteller mit allem drum & dram,' a food coma waiting to happen made up of four varieties of sausage, mashed potatoes, sauerkraut and red cabbage" ... 817 Castleton Avenue, Staten Island, 718-816-7461 [Staten Island Advance]

Robert Sietsema went to Frankies 457, "a cozy tin-ceilinged trattoria founded by a pair of Italian American pals from Queens--both named Frankie" ... says about the cavatelli: "A more savory pasta can hardly be imagined." ... "the best thing I can say about Frankies does not concern its menu, wine, or ambience, and it's something that cannot be said about the welter of mediocre restaurants lining nearby Smith Street: Frankies feels like it belongs in the neighborhood." ... web site, 457 Court Street, Brooklyn, 718-403-0033 [NYT | NY Metro | Citysearch]

The Hungry Rose had dinner at Whym ... "The hit of the appetizers was the Duck Negamaki, a chunks of soy sauce sweet coated duck on a bed of 'forbidden' rice" ... "Chicken Pot Pie [is] covered in melted chedder cheese and chopped chives. It is HUGE. It could have served two, maybe even three people. Underneath a delicious golden, crispy biscuite crust (making a wonderful 'riiip' sound as I plunged my fork in) were bits of chicken apply sausage, carrots and potatoes" ... web site, 889 9th Avenue, between 57th and 58th Streets, 212-315-0088 [MenuPages | Citysearch]

Veal Cheeks says Ureña's "cuisine had both real successes, a few errors, and many satisfying attempts" ... "the chef's tasting menu (nine courses, plus amuses), and the chef attempted to dazzle us: for most courses the table was served two different preparations that demanded sharing." ... "Shrimp over Manchego Rice (rice with Spanish sheep's milk cheese)is Spanish for Shrimp on Cheese Grits. Although not wild, it was a startling and effective mixture, mild and robust, and we loved it." ... "The steamed lobster with pickled rhubarb purée, glazed salisfy, and blood orange sauce might have been a high point of the meal. Instead, it was upended by an sickly sweet sauce of goopy consistency." ... (previous review: Augieland (TWIR, February 10, 2006)) ... 37 East 28th Street, between Lexington Avenue and Park Avenue South, 212-213-2328 [eGullet | NY Metro | Citysearch] ... and says Nobu "is an essential restaurant, the rising sun lighting TriBeCa" ... the "Kumamoto oysters [were] sublime" ... broiled black cod "is a finalist for Dish of the Century" ... web site, 105 Hudson Street, at Franklin Street, 212-219-0500 [sushi NYC | NYT | MenuPages | Gayot | openlist | Citysearch]

Adam Platt says the cooking at Urena "is gourmet-quality" ... "the leap from mastering kitchen technique to running a first-rate restaurant is more difficult than it may appear. This is apparent almost as soon as you walk into Ureña" ... "if you manage to keep your attention focused firmly on the plate, his food is, in the words of my discerning wife, 'really yummy.'" ... "the excellent halibut is blanketed with bread crumbs mingling in a pleasing way with a smooth mixture of sweet onions, zucchini, and saffron broth" ...

Michelle Green went on a "Savor the Caribbean cruise" offered by Carnival ... "Six days into my seven-day jaunt aboard Celebrity's showy Infinity in January (which cost $2,093, with a single supplement), I hadn't found the transcendent experience I hoped for. Instead of getting into the kitchen, my sleeves rolled up while I learned the intricacies of preparing some fabulous Caribbean dish, I'd been slumping in a theater seat watching the guest chef Edgar Leal, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, preparing dishes that included lamb with basil mashed potatoes." ... "There was a lesson to all of this, and it struck me the next day, when our feast on Paradise Island was ending. After 15 dishes emerged from the kitchen at Bimini Road, we were staring, awestruck, at dessert -- an immense platter of guava duff, which was like a jelly roll, with a pastry-cream sauce. Though I could manage only a bite, I thought, fine -- I would never have encountered this if I hadn't joined a cruise." ... web site [TripAdvisor]...

Plate Of The Day likes the pasta at Kuhinya ... "Penne with Salmon and vodka sauce was a definitely a hit. The whole wheat penne was delicious and also cooked al dente. The Salmon and vodka sauce was a cream base and included ample small chunks of delicious fresh grilled salmon." ... web site, 4005 Broadway, at West 168th Street, near Columbia Medical Center, 212-781-3333

NYC nosh notes about the VIP hallway at Blue Owl: "Cozy place, actually. We could imagine spending a few hours back here…as long as we could bring along a plate or two of the upscale cold cuts we sampled on our visit. I think we’d have to rename the area though and let in anyone with a taste for cured meats and cheeses. We’re thinking the Ham Hallway or the Bresola Bunker, but I wonder what Diddy would have to say." ... web site, 196 Second Avenue, between 12th and 13th Streets, 212-505-2583 [Citysearch] ... reports that the ceaser salad at The Half King "While it looked nice, the salad wasn’t good" ... "onion rings were fantastic" ... the Sirloin Burger topped with sautéed onions and "a few slices of swiss cheese [was] the best thing we ate" ... web site, 505 West 23rd Street, at 10th Avenue, 212-462-4300 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Mag | Village Voice | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch]

Frank Bruni says Rare Bar & Grill "is a shrine to burgers of all kinds, arguably to a point of burger apostasy." ... "a respectable burger can transcend its trappings. Rare’s did." ... (for the best grilled burger in NYC, go to Tony Dragonas at 62nd and Madison) ... 228 Bleecker Street, 212-691-7273 [MenuPages] ... and gave 3 stars to Del Posto ... "mostly terrific food, distinguished by first-rate ingredients (the arugula here makes arugula at many other restaurants seem like iceberg in drag), clear flavors and, more often than not, superior cooking." ... "The veal shank, roasted and served with spaetzle, was dull and slightly dry, as was swordfish. Pappardelle with wild boar needed more kick, maybe because this particular pairing of noodle and beast has become so widespread." ... (previous reviews: Steve Cuozzo (TWIR, February 17, 2006), David Rosen (TWIR, February 3, 2006)), Andrea Strong (TWIR, January 20, 2006)) ... 85 Tenth Avenue, between 15th Street and 16th Streets, 212-497-8090 [MenuPages | NY Metro | Village Voice | Citysearch]

The Bruni Digest looks at Frank Bruni's 3-star review of Del Postso ... "the tone of the whole review feels like the Count is defending the honor of a wronged lady, to the point of accusing us New Yorkers of being small-minded." ... "So despite the classiness of the decor, you see, the food is straightforward--not exactly what Giuseppe Schmoe eats every day after cobbling together Fiats, but at least innocent of obnoxious frippery" ... and don't miss this week's episode of "Billy the Often Broken Leg Guy!" ...

The Girl Who Ate Everything "wouldn't necessarily recommend or not recommend" Grand Sichuan ... had "sauteed Shanghai bok choy. I can't think of anything bad about it, so I guess that means it's good." ... and Chong Qing Dry & Spicy Chicken ... and didn't notice the chiles???? ... web site, 19-23 St. Marks Place (East 8th Street), between 2nd and 3rd Avenues, 212-529-4800 [MenuPages | NY Metro | Village Voice | Citysearch] ... had dinner at Piola: "specialty is pizza. Lots of pizza" ... the Margherita with fresh mozzarella "definitely made my taste buds happier" but wanted more basil on it ... the crust "wasn't very crispy, nor sadly limp; it was just in the middle" ... web site, 48 East 12th Street, between University Place and Broadway, 212-777-7781 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Metro | Citysearch]

Twenty bucks a day had "noodles with special brown sauce" at Kum Ryong ... but the "chicken soup ... seemed to lack very much chicken" ... 30 West 32nd Street, 212-629-6450 [Village Voice] ... writes that Kebap G has "the perfect replication of the standard Berlin doner kebap" ... "it’s a damn good sandwich – the warm meat, cold veggies, and soft bread are similar to banh mi in their contrasting texture/temperature pleasures." ... 1830 2nd Avenue, between 94th and 95th Streets, 212-860-5960 [Chowhound] ... and reports that the yum nam sod at Pam Real Thai Food is "amazingly hot" ... (previous review: Veal Cheeks (TWIR, December 9, 2005)) ... web site, 404 West 49th Street, between 9th and 10th Avenues, 212-333-7500 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Mag | Village Voice | Cheapo NY | openlist | Citysearch]

____________________________________

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Technorati Tags: New York, NYC, Manhattan, restaurants, restaurant reviews, this week in reviews, week in reviews

Posted March 3, 2006 10:17 AM · Permalink · This Week in Reviews · Comments (0) · TrackBacks (1)

This Week in NYC Reviews - February 24, 2006

For a roundup of DC restaurant reviews from DC food bloggers and media, see This Week in DC Reviews at Hobnob Blog ...

NYC Restaurant inspection results online

Waiter Rant liked the service and the fluke at Mary’s Fish Camp ... "My fluke’s encrusted in a thick lightly spiced panko coating which delivers a satisfying crunchy resistance before reaching the moist succulent filet. The fish is served atop a chiffonade of brussel sprouts and bacon, accompanied by mashed sweet potatoes and a side of slow roasted elephant garlic. It’s outstanding." ... web site, 64 Charles Street, 646-486-2185 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Metro | Village Voice | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch]
A Guy in New York likes Tangra Restaurant ... "the Okra Tangra Masala is a truly outstanding dish" ... 3923 Queens Blvd., Sunnyside, NY, 718-786-8008/8181 [mnemex]

Augieland gave 1,649,728,211 xings to Xing ... "As for the food, Xing claims it is making Southeast Asian cuisine, and I can pretty confidently say you won’t find food like this in Southeast Asia, unless of course you are in a Western hotel that caters to ex-pats pretending they are enjoying the Far East." ... "What Chef Rexhepi is really doing at Xing is reinterpreting the foods Americans consider Chinese, and in some cases Japanese or Thai. This reinterpretation is very well executed and, in a sea of mundane General Tso’s chickens and spare ribs from a foil bag, fills a huge hole that needed filling." ... web site, 785 9th Avenue, [MenuPages | NY Metro | Citysearch] ... and gave 693 Boobbillian stars to Alto ... "The food is truly great and the restaurant takes it's place among other worldwide greats" ... (previous review: Forbes (TWIR, October 7, 2005)) ... 520 Madison Avenue (entrance on 53rd Street between 5th Avenue and Madison Avenue), 212-308-1099 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Metro | Village Voice | Gayot | Citysearch]

NYC nosh also went to Xing ... "favorite dishes of the night were the sliced hamachi in mandarin and sweet chili sauce appetizer, an uncooked preparation of soft triangles of white fish that had us and our two table companions wishing for a larger portion." ... "BBQ Chinese Spare ribs [are some] of the most tender pork we’ve eaten in a long while" ...

Pascale Le Draoulec says the food at Industria Argentina "delivers as many peaks and valleys as the Andes" ... "had the most luck with dishes that were Argentine to their core, starting with the piping hot empanadas 'saltenas' [and] the sopita, a generous bowl of seafood 'chowder' made sweet and thick with Andean sweet corn, or the roasted pumpkin salad with watercress croppings" ... 329 Greenwich Street, between Duane and Jay Streets, 212-965-8560 [MenuPages | Citysearch]

The Girl Who Ate Everything had a "blackened with cajun mayo burger, which came on an English muffin bun with tomato slices and baby greens toppings on the side" at ZOZO's ... "really liked the soft, chewy English muffin bun and would love it if more sandwiches came that way. One problem I see with this burger is that it's rather small and I think many people could easily eat two...except for $7 a burger (probably more depending on which one you get), people probably won't do that" ... skip the mint milkshake ... web site, 172 Orchard Street, 212-228-0009 [MenuPages | NY Metro | Citysearch]

Steve Cuozzo asks if you're "weary of buzzy, brand-new restaurants, which are often as dysfunctional as they are hot" ... and recommends 5 "established restaurants where everything actually works" ... Churrascaria Tribeca: "meat roster leapt from 12-15 at a time to 15-18; new entries include skewered grilled duck legs and pork tenderloin" ... 221 West Broadway, between White and Franklin Streets, 212-925-6969 [NY Metro | Citysearch] ... db Bistro Moderne: $50 hamburgers and "delicious, unabashedly French dishes" ... 55 West 44th Street, between Fifth and Sixth Avenues, 212-391-2400 [NY Metro | Gayot | Citysearch] ... Sushi of Gari: "It's the only place I know where, when you order the night's special sushi combo, you're cheerfully asked, 'Is there anything you don't like?' - and not have it held against you if you say yes" ... 402 East 78th Street, between First and York Avenues, 212-517-5340 [NY Metro | Gayot | Citysearch] ... L'Impero: "it's better now than when it opened" ... 45 Tudor City Place, near 43rd Street, 212-599-5045 [NY Metro | Gayot | Citysearch] ... and Tamarind: "is more seasonally oriented than Indian places where menus read like museum pieces." ... 41-43 East 22nd Street, between Broadway and Park Avenue South, 212-674-7400 [NY Metro | Gayot | Citysearch]

Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld say "fine Israeli dining isn’t an oxymoron" at Miriam ... "it does not shove its chicken into pita pockets but rather arranges it just-so atop the flatbread in the manner of a delicately composed salad. To drive home the point that the kitchen specializes in what the menu describes as 'modern Israeli' cuisine, the chef layers the marinated and grilled strips of chicken over fresh spinach, surrounds it with a piquant moat of mango chutney (amba, to shawarma cognoscenti), and tops it with an oven-roasted tomato." ... 79 Fifth Avenue, at Prospect Place, Brooklyn, 718-622-2250 [Citysearch]

Leo Carey eats raw chicken and goo at Yakitoti Totto ... "raw chicken is best served with an accompaniment--a marvellously aggressive wasabi, chopped very coarse, or pickled plums that impart a smoky flavor" ... "the strangest thing on the menu is not chicken at all, but seaweed. Forget crispy fried nori or pliant hijiki: mekabu comes in a coating of--there’s no other word for it--goo." ... 251 West 55th Street, 212-245-4555 [NYT | NY Metro | Citysearch]

Moira Hodgson gave 1 star to Dani ... not impressed with the appetizers, and "Things went further downhill when our main courses arrived" ... (previous review: Frank Bruni (TWIR, January 20, 2006)) ... 333 Hudson Street, at Charlton Street, 212-633-9333 [MenuPages | Citysearch]

Peter Meehan says dessert has grown up at Room 4 Dessert ... (previous review: Pascale Le Draoulec (TWIR, February 17, 2006)) ... 17 Cleveland Place, between Spring and Kenmare Streets, 212-941-5405 [eGullet | gothamist (pics) | JoonBlog | Citysearch]

Robert Sietsema reviews two ... Baobab "still rocks. Though the restaurant has pressed the delete button on the palm oil, the bluefish remains well stuffed with herbs, and the orbiting veggies now include cassava, carrots, plantain, eggplant, cabbage, and okra" ... 120 West 116th Street, 212-864-4700 [harlem world news | Citysearch] ... Africa Kine: "lunch features traditional tribal fare, while the evening meal is quasi-French, showcasing wonderful grilled lamb chops (debe, pronounced "dibby," $10), an astonishing eight to a plate; whole grilled porgy with mustard-onion relish; and lackluster chicken brochettes. Still, the most interesting thing we ate were nems. Offered with a fishy-tasting vinegar, these fried spring rolls, bulging with vermicelli and ground meat" ... 256 West 116th Street, 212-666-9400 [DineSite | NY Metro | Veal Cheeks]

Plate Of The Day disagrees with WhiteTrashBBQ and says Dinosaur BBQ is "great" ... and the plates are "enourmous" ... (previous reviews: WhiteTrashBBQ (TWIR, December 9, 2005), David Rosen (TWIR, December 2, 2005), gothamist (TWIR, November 11, 2005)) ... 646 West 131st Street, 212-694-1777 [NYT | Gayot | Citysearch]

Mona's Apple said lunch at Dinosaur Bar-B-Q "was a meat-lover's dream" ... and the fried green tomatoes caused her heart to skip a beat ...

The Hungry Rose ate "'The Big Cheese', a three cheese (Muenster, provolone, Swiss) sandwich with roasted red peppers and garlic, red onions on olive bread" at Say Cheese! ... "but I think I prefer a plain grilled cheese sandwich on that Wonder Bread, even ones with *gack!* Kraft singles" ... 649 9th Avenue, between 45th and 46th Streets, 212-265-8840 [MenuPages | openlist | Citysearch]

Veal Cheeks writes that at Cru "the simpler the dish, the more satisfying" ... "three small bites, a lovely, startling, inspired one-bite Cubano "sandwich," miniaturism at its finest; a squash truffle with Fontina and cocoa nibs, light on the chocolate but a pleasant starter; and an ordinary goat cheese cup. This trio was followed by a salmon spring roll with creme fraiche, simple, clever, profound, and very satisfying." ... but said "a trio of crudos: Kinme Dai (with Micro Shiso, Red Salt, and Olive Oil), Arctic Char (with Smoked Pepper, Apple, Endive, and Vanilla Oil), and Langoustine (with Green Papaya-Truffle Salad, Gooseberry and Gin Sauce) [were] the most elegant and compelling moment of this winter night." ... (previous review: Augieland (TWIR, February 17, 2006)) ... web site, 24 5th Avenue, at West 9th Street, 212-529-1700 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Metro | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch] ... and had dinner at Babbo ... "With the exception of a failed dessert, the dishes were in the upper quintile: 650 culinary SATs. Yet, not a single dish proved astonishing, although the combination of ingredients - as well as Mario's buzz - indicated that this was the goal. True, my companions and I - tough graders all - did not assay the Tasting Menus (either pasta or 'traditional'). Ignore the buzz, and this is a respectable and amiable restaurant that uses Italian ingredients (and Italian labels) to persuade diners that something 'big' is at work. Yet, at the end the dishes are neither transcendent creations nor sublime Italian renditions." ... (previous review: Big Apple Dining Guide (TWIR, October 28, 2005)) ... web site, 110 Waverly Place, 212-777-0303 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Metro | Village Voice | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch]

Frank Bruni gave 2 stars to The Orchard ... and notes: "Its menu sticks to English. The kitchen, without a wood-burning oven, is hidden from view." ... 162 Orchard Street, between Stanton and Rivington Streets, 212-353-3570 [Andrea Strong | Gayot] ... and his description of Il Mulino has us scratching our heads as to why it's so crowded ... "But the prices! The swordfish was $55, as was conventionally lovely, unsurprising and unspectacular Dover sole. A side of broccoli rabe was $14, and according to our unspecific check, four desserts plus a double espresso and a cappuccino totaled $85" ... web site, 86 West Third Street, between Sullivan and Thompson Streets, 212-673-3783 [MenuPages | NY Metro | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch]

The Bruni Digest is enjoying Christmas in February ... "Last week was a shame, a crying shame. Frank Bruni is clearly keeping very close tabs on me, and JUST when (for once!) I get all busy, he launches his massive treasure-trove of satire-hunter’s bounty: his own BLOG. And he throws in for good measure one of the funniest starred reviews in recent memory, where he basically describes the restaurant Telepan as a 17th century Dutch peasant" ...

Amateur Gourmet had breakfast at Balthazar ... "it's wonderful at breakfast. Not crowded, not noisy, and bright with the morning sunlight, the food is terrific and the prices are way reasonable for such a trendy, hard-to-get-into-at-night sort of place." ... web site, 80 Spring Street, 212-965-1785 [MenuPages | NY Metro | Village Voice | Gayot | Citysearch]

Kris Ensimger has a list of restaurants near Public Theater, on Lafayette Street between East 4th Street and Astor Place ... Public Theater, 425 Lafayette Street, 212-539-8500 ... Butter, 415 Lafayette Street, 212-253-2828 [Citysearch] ... Colors (previous reviews: Frank Bruni (TWIR, January 13, 2006), Leslie Casimir (TWIR, January 6, 2006)), 417 Lafayette Street, 212-777-8443 [MenuPages] ... Five Points, 31 Great Jones Street, 212-253-5700 [MenuPages | Citysearch] ... Hedeh, 57 Great Jones Street, 212-473-8458 [MenuPages | Citysearch] ... Il Buco (previous review: Eric Asimov (TWIR, October 21, 2005)), 47 Bond Street, 212-533-1932 [MenuPages | Citysearch] ... Indochine, 430 Lafayette Street, 212-505-5111 ... [MenuPages | Citysearch]

____________________________________

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Posted February 24, 2006 10:27 AM · Permalink · This Week in Reviews · Comments (0) · TrackBacks (0)

This Week in NYC Reviews - February 17, 2006

Also see our roundup of Michelin 1, 2 and 3 star restaurants with links to reviews ...

For a roundup of DC restaurant reviews from DC food bloggers and media, see This Week in DC Reviews at Hobnob Blog ...

NYC Restaurant inspection results online

Waiter Rant says Valentine's "night was one of the most lucrative nights I’ve ever had as a waiter" ... and thanks everyone for their prayers and good wishes ...
slice's "own unscientific research here at the Slice Institute for Pizza Research suggests that if your dearest doesn't like pizza at all, you should consider relationship exit strategies" ...

Salli Vates recommends Supercore Cafe ... "the marinated ginger-and-radish-topped mackerel [of] which there were three moist slabs. My spinach was smothered in sesame sauce, and there was a nice portion of seaweed-sprinkled white rice. And the latte was terrific." ... 305 Bedford Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-302-1629 [Citysearch]

NYC nosh recommends the "combination platter, served with six takoyaki and the okonomiyaki of your choice" at Otafuku ... 236 East 9th Street, between 2nd and 3rd Avenues, 212-353-8503 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Metro | Village Voice | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch]

CityRag says the French Fry-Encrusted Corn Dog is "Possibly the BEST street food EVER invented" ... Seoul, South Korea ...

Robert Sietsema kind of liked Indo Wok ... "The spiciest and also the strangest thing my pals and I encountered on three visits was beef Mongolian ($12.50). Mantled with crisp fried noodles, the seething crimson stew reeked of vinegar [and] like a vindaloo, it was fiery as hell." ... 106 Lexington Avenue, between 27th and 28th Streets, 212-684-1645 [MenuPages]

Opinionated About Dining "was looking for an ethereal meal that only a top three-star chef can serve and that is exactly what I got" at Arpege ... 84 Rue de Varenne, Paris, +33 1 45 51 47 33 [food tourist]

Joshua Bernstein proposes a takeover of McGinn's ... "Trust me: Look beyond looks to find McGinn’s beauty: It’s a blank slate to fill with your friends. All of them. Plus their friends. And their enemies too. Let’s dub this proposed action 'takeoveritis.'" ... 916 Manhattan Avenue, between Kent Street and Greenpoint Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-383-9768

Pascale Le Draoulec describes Naka Naka as a "bento-box-size gem, literally dwarfed by nearby Morimoto" ... "when my tuna sashimi arrived, artfully arranged with broad shiso leaves, it tasted as though it had ridden a wave onto my plate and landed belly up." ... "I highly recommend the crunchy lotus-root salad, as appealing to the eye as to the tongue, and the pan-fried burdock and carrot slivers (kinpira gobo), one of the tastiest coleslaws I've ever had" ... 458 West 17th Street, between 9th and 10th Avenues, 212-929-8544 [NY Metro | Gayot | Citysearch] ... and was "totally charmed by the white-chocolate "margarita," a martini glass layered from bottom to top with Meyer lemon gelée, white-chocolate mousse, yogurt-tarragon sorbet and coarse apricot salt" at Room 4 Dessert ... 17 Cleveland Place, between Spring and Kenmare Streets, 212-941-5405 [eGullet | gothamist (pics) | JoonBlog | Citysearch]

Adam Platt says of Gilt: "The food ($92 for a three-course prix fixe dinner) is a comparative bargain" ... "If you order only one dish, however, make it Liebrandt’s foie gras (another $18 supplement), which is encased in a thin membrane of beets, served over a nori tuile, and eaten on segments of brioche toast, which you can spread with truffle butter served in a tiny silver pot." ... (previous reviews: Frank Bruni (TWIR, February 10, 2006), Steve Cuozzo, David Rosen, Gael Greene (TWIR, January 20, 2006)) ... web site, 455 Madison Avenue, at 50th Street, 212-891-8100 [NYT | Citysearch]

Augieland, after living at Morimoto NYC: Omakase Bar for a week, has a roundup and gave it 903 ryorillian stars ... "if you do not appreciate delicacy and grace in food this may not be the place for you" ... "A big part of the genius of the omakase bar isn't only the creativity that made every single dish completely different, but tying them all together so that they were even better as a whole. Each night had its own flow and its own logic, and at the end of each night the creativity and continuity came together to make it unique and fantastic." ... web site, 88 10th Avenue, between 15th and 16th Streets, 212-989-8883 [Citysearch] ... and had Valentine's Day dinner at Cru ... "the fact that it manages to stay so special, in spite of my being there quite a bit, is a testament to how well its team executes their mission" ... "robiola tart is awesome" ... "Roasted Diver Scallops with Cauliflower-Almond Purée, Wilted Baby Spinach and Hon-shimeji Mushrooms [were wonderfully] golden and crisp on the surface, the scallops were rare enough to maintain their bite." ... web site, 24 5th Avenue, at West 9th Street, 212-529-1700 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Metro | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch]

A Guy In New York says the xiao long bao (soup dumplings) at Shanghai Cafe "are so good we ordered more ... and don't forget to eat the cabbage leaves" ... (previous review: Robert Sietsema (TWIR, August 26, 2005)) ... 100 Mott Street, between Canal and Hester Streets, 212-966-3988 [MenuPages | Add Your Own Column | Citysearch]

Steve Cuozzo says of Del Posto and Morimoto: "So far, though, the heralded 10th Avenue showdown of 'Molto' Mario Batali and 'Iron Chef' Matsaharu Morimoto seems a clash, not of titans, but of kitchen crash-test dummies." ... "Squandering bazillions on architecture with scant regard for common sense, both new joints are overbuilt, over-hyped - and at risk of being just plain over." ... "While the great Morimoto himself fussed over Martha Stewart, the rest of us were getting indifferently cut, generic-tasting sushi and rolls." ... (Del Posto previous reviews: David Rosen (TWIR, February 3, 2006)), Andrea Strong (TWIR, January 20, 2006)) ...

The Hungry Rose enjoyed her dinner at Bistro Du Vent ... "a wild stripe bass with a side of gnocchi in a shrimp-bouillabaisse sauce ... was cooked just long enough to render it soft and flakey which allowed the sauce to shine through instead of the fish" ... 411 West 42nd Street, between 9th and 10th Avenues, 212-239-3060 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Metro | Village Voice | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch]

Joan Reminick looks at "The ethnic restaurant's dilemma: Keep it real or tone it down?" ... and reviews The Wreck Chowder House ... "enjoyed a special of pecan-crusted mahi-mahi, a felicitous union of fish and nuts that, unlike some nut-encrusted piscine dishes, wasn't the least bit oily" ... "liked the beef satay, burnished strips of well-marinated meat on wooden skewers, served with chimichurri and a ramekin of tamarind peanut sauce" ... 37 Shore Road, Port Washington, 516-767-7878 [AOL Cityguide]

WhiteTrashBBQ announces "NYC's first BBQ contest - Grillin On The Bay!" ... March 25, 2006, St. Mark Sports Association, Corner of East 18th Street and Avenue Z, Sheepshead Bay, Brooklyn, 718-769-5374

Big Apple Dining Guide says i Trulli "is the ultimate first date place in Gramercy/Murray Hill but is well suited for your midweek night out with the wife/girl/boyfriend or even solo dining" ... "fresh pasta was cooked perfectly al dente and the stuffing was very flavorful...the veal making its presence known and not hidden in a veil of spinach" ... web site, 122 East 27th Street, between Lexington and Park Avenues, 212-481-7372 [MenuPages | NYT | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch]

Gael Greene liked some things at Spiga ... "I can smell, and my mouth senses chocolate adding depth and luscious richness to the gnocchi with porcini and juicy ribbons of wild boar. It’s the hit of the night. A simple mushroom-and-Gorgonzola lasagne, an almost-classic zucchini parmigiana, and garganelli pasta with broccoletti and pig cheek also stand out." ... (previous review: Eric Asimov (TWIR, January 27, 2006)) ... 200 West 84th Street, Manhattan, 212-362-5506 [MenuPages | Citysearch]

Moira Hodgson gave 2 stars to Blaue Gans ... "The wursts, supplied by a German sausage-maker upstate, are terrific. Weisswurst, bratwurst and burenwurst (pork and beef sausage laced with cheese) come with the most delicate sauerkraut this side of Canal Street, tasting as though it had been braised in champagne." ... (previous review: Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld (TWIR, January 20, 2006)) ... 139 Duane Street, between West Broadway and Church Street, 212-571-8880 [MenuPages | NYT | Citysearch]

David Rosen gave 1.5 stars to Blaue Gans ... "Traditional Austrian dishes such as pork schnitzel and kavalierspitz (boiled beef) benefit from superb potato salad and silky spinach puree respectively" ...

Andrea Thompson also liked Blaue Gans ... "in the Kavalierspitz, the boiled beef has the perfect texture between tender and mushy, and the creamed spinach turns out to be a bowlful of addictively buttery, neon-green purée." ... but the "most pleasing discovery might be the dessert list" ...

Peter Meehan likes Stir It Up ... "there wasn't a single dish I tried on any visit that was a clunker. Not that Ms. Gordon's cooking is some unbridled expression of culinary brilliance; better, perhaps, is that it is the carefully considered product of a diligent home cook who happens to be cooking in a restaurant" ... 514 Atlantic Avenue, at Third Avenue, Brooklyn, 718- 643-3716

Frank Bruni debuted a blog, Diner's Journal, and reviews David Burke at Bloomingdale’s ... he complained that the "Braised short ribs were a perfect example -- dry, dull" ... maybe the kitchen is trying to send Frank a message, because when we had them they were very good ... but what we liked best was this comment by Melvin Snyder: "Mr. Bruni, it’s a good thing for you that Food & Wine’s Pete Wells already published his column about food blogs because you’d effortlessly make his 'tiny empires of boredom' list." ... general web site, Burke in the Box web site, 1000 Third Avenue, 59th Street entrance, between Lexington and Third Avenues, 212-705-3800 [NY | The Strong Buzz | Daily News] ... and gives 2 stars to Telepan ... "It shuns trickery and puts its faith in fundamental virtues: its freshness; the pureness or punch of its flavors; the skill with which it's been cooked." ... (previous reviews: Adam Platt (TWIR, February 3, 2006), Steve Cuozzo (TWIR, January 13, 2006), Andrea Strong (TWIR, January 6, 2006)) ... web site, 72 West 69th Street, between Columbus Avenue and Central Park West, 212-580-4300 [MenuPages | Mouthfuls | Citysearch]

Veal Cheeks says Devi "rides high in comparison with Indian restaurants throughout the five boroughs. I was fully satisfied with what might well have been the best 'ethnic cuisine' of my New York stay" ... "crispy fried strips of okra were magnificent" ... "crab cakes were suffused with pleasure" ... (previous review: Augieland (TWIR, January 27, 2006)) ... web site, 8 East 18th Street, between 5th Avenue and Broadway, 212-691-1300 [MenuPages | NYT | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch]

The Girl Who Ate Everything "ate nearly everything" at Teresa's ... the pierogies "were full of doughy deliciousness, nor can I pick a favorite because I LIKED EM ALL" ... "gigantic blintzes, oozing with cheesy, fruity delight [were] awesome, soft inside with crispy edges" ... 103 1st Avenue, between 6th and 7th Streets, 212-228-0604 [MenuPages | NY Metro | Village Voice | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch] ... and also liked Tiny's Giant Sandwich Shop ... the "buffalo chicken sandwich ... was delicious" ... web site, 129 Rivington Street, 212-982-1690 [MenuPages | Cheapo Travel NY | Village Voice | openlist | Citysearch]

Amateur Gourmet says the pizza at 44 & X is "Gourmet pizza. And somewhat reasonably priced at $12 for an individual pie" ... 622 Tenth Avenue, at 44th Street, 212-977-1170 [MenuPages | NY Metro | Citysearch]

Mona's Apple had dinner at Barca 18 ... "nothing remarkable about either of the appetizers," which were crispy calamari and marinated shrimp ... "The calamari didn't stand out and the shrimp, while glazed in a nice citrus coating, was forgettable." ... "the paella de langosta y camaron [was] enormous and had lobster, shrimp, clams, mussels, chorizo, saffron rice, peas and peppers." ... (previous reviews: Frank Bruni (TWIR, December 23, 2005), David Rosen (TWIR, November 18, 2005)) ... web site, 225 Park Avenue South, between 18th and 19th Streets, 212-533-2500 [MenuPages | NYMetro | Gayot | Citysearch]

Plate Of The Day says Metro Diner "certainly beats Denny’s any day." ... 2641 Broadway, at 100th Street, 212-866-0800 [MenuPages | yelp | openlist]

foodie pleads for help ... "After 10 years of reading restaurant reviews with bated breath and careful attention, I have come to loathe the recycled language and random crap that fills many of the reviews and food writing that I read (and write. Ha.) Food and restaurant reviewer, please help alleviate my pain." ... "Thank you, reviewer, for totally overlooking the $20K line cook who spends their entire existence slinging hot pans in order to fade into an oblivion of underappreciation. Also, when was the last time you've heard about sous chefs in a restaurant review? In many cases, those dudes are impacting the quality of the food more than the executive chefs. Get off your lazy asses and find out who they are - you are probably looking at the next executive chef at a trendy new restaurant coming soon." ...

The Food Section writes, "As restaurants question the inherent value of the Michelin star system, some establishments are even seeking to have their stars removed" ...

Plate Of The Day had Chinese New Year's dinner at Sweet and Tart ... "favorites from the New Year’s dinner were the garlic fried chicken, the fish and lobster and the Red Bean Soup dessert. The chicken was steam cooked just under tender then rapidly broiled over high heat to produce an extremely crunchy crispy skin." ... 20 Mott Street, 212-964-0380 [MenuPages | NYT | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch]

Slashfood declares that "The search is over" for the perfect Bahn Mi ... at 5 Ninth ... "What arrived in front of me was bánh mì as art. Roast pork and tendrils of carrot and daikon spilled out of the sandwich that was kept company by a pile of what are surely the best shrimp chips I've ever had. The bánh mì itself was perfect. The crisp baguette shattered, a perfect foil to the roast pork and creamy sweet mayonnaise. The only downside of 5 Ninth's sandwich was the price. At $12, it's not cheap, but it's a price I'm willing to pay to my end my search for a top-notch Vietnamese sandwich." ... (previous reviews: Veal Cheeks (TWIR, February 3, 2006), foodie nyc (TWIR, December 16, 2005)) ... web site, 5 Ninth Avenue, at West 12th Street, 212-929-9460 [MenuPages | NYT | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch]

____________________________________

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Did we miss your favorite review?

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Technorati Tags: New York, NYC, Manhattan, restaurants, restaurant reviews, this week in reviews, week in reviews

Posted February 17, 2006 09:17 AM · Permalink · This Week in Reviews · Comments (0) · TrackBacks (1)

This Week in NYC Reviews - February 10, 2006

Also see our roundup of Michelin 1, 2 and 3 star restaurants with links to reviews ...

For a roundup of DC restaurant reviews from DC food bloggers and media, see This Week in DC Reviews at Hobnob Blog ...

NYC Restaurant inspection results online

foodite had 26 dim sum dishes at Ocean Jewels Seafood Restaurant: "I will never eat Dim Sum in Chinatown again. I'm a Flushing Dim Sum convert." ... 13330 39th Avenue, Flushing, 718-359-8600 ... sounds like a place we've got to try ... also check out their reviews of DeMarco's ... and Tebaya ...
Veal Cheeks says Brasserie Les Halles "strives for adequacy. It usually achieves its goal, creating a thoughtless cuisine. The usual failings of a misbegotten restaurant were muted."... "Les Halles has figured out just what it must do to get by. It is the slacker of New York City bistros, skating by on roguish charm and good looks." ... web site, 411 Park Avenue South, at 29th Street, 212-679-4111 [MenuPages | Gayot] ... and says "Wallsé is Aquavit on Strudel" ...

A Hamburger Today says the burgers are expensive at Houston's, but "the quality of the food was far superior to anything served at Bennigan's or Applebee's or any of those chain-monsters" ... "will win no points for originality, but they used top-shelf ingredients and cooked them as requested" ... 153 East 53rd Street, at 3rd Avenue, 212-888-3828 [MenuPages | Citysearch]

NYC nosh revisited Grand Central Oyster Bar ... Manhattan clam chowder had "substantially meaty pieces of clam were in evidence, yet there was also something metallic and amiss" ... "loved the chewy and well-fried Ipswich clams in my clam platter" ... but in the squid salad "some of the squid had dried out substantially and none of it was tender; Nosher described eating the rings ‘as like chewing my way through a plate of something you might buy at an office supply store.’ Unfortunately, there was also too much red onion and barely any of the advertised purple basil." ... web site, Lower Level, Grand Central Station, 89 East 42nd Street, 212-490-6650 [MenuPages | NYMetro | Citysearch]

Forbes gives Green GOs to Le Périgord: "excellent foie gras and rack of lamb, superb Dover sole and tempting desserts."... web site, 405 East 52nd Street, at 1st Avenue, 212-755-6244 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Metro | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch] ... and Cookshop: "Strip steak, pasta and scallops are all perfectly prepared" ... (previous reviews: Veal Cheeks (TWIR, February 3, 2006), Andrea Thompson (TWIR, December 16, 2005), Frank Bruni (TWIR, December 2, 2005), Hal Rubenstein (TWIR, November 18, 2005), Andrea Strong (TWIR, November 11, 2005), NYC Nosh (TWIR, October 14, 2005)) ... 156 10th Avenue, at 20th Street, 212-924-4440 [MenuPages | Citysearch] ... and a Yellow CONSIDER to Mainland ... (previous reviews: Frank Bruni (TWIR, September 23, 2005), Adam Platt (TWIR, September 9, 2005), David Rosen (TWIR, August 26, 2005) and Gael Greene (TWIR, August 12, 2005)) ... 1081 Third Ave. between East 63rd and 64th, 212-888-6333 [MenuPages | Citysearch]

Salli Vates took her grandmother to Via Quadronno ... "Although the tartini were small, they did not skimp on sweet crabmeat or a blanket of sparkling fresh salmon roe." ... web site, 25 East 73rd Street, 212-650-9880 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Metro | Citysearch]

Robert Sietsema writes that Los Dos Molinos, "the offspring of a celebrated Arizona chain," is "More than just margaritas" ... "Adovada ribs [are] stewed with chiles till the meat falls off the bone" ... "This is peasant cuisine par excellence, and the café doesn't give a hoot for austere modern notions about plating." ... "Other bargains on the menu include enchiladas, tostadas, and taco salads" ... 119 East 18th Street, between Irving Place and Park Avenue South, 212-505-1574 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Metro | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch]

Joshua Bernstein likes the hot dogs at Port 41 ... and the back room, which is "a wide-open brick room filled with dart boards and three beauties: tournament-size pool tables perpetually 100 percent free." ... 355 West 41st Street, at Ninth Avenue, 212-947-1188

Gael Greene says David Burke at Bloomingdale's "needs only a few therapeutic drop-ins from its peripatetic star chef." ... and wonders "what day the kitchen grilled the bird that’s on my chicken BLT with sweet garlic. It’s almost fossilized. Not that I wouldn’t come back." ... (previous reviews: A Guy In New York (TWIR, January 20, 2006), Slashfood and A Hamburger Today (TWIR, December 16, 2005)) ... general web site, Burke in the Box web site, 1000 Third Avenue, 59th Street entrance, between Lexington and Third Avenues, 212-705-3800 [NY | The Strong Buzz | Daily News]

Peter Meehan says the roasted tomato soup at Giorgione 508 "deftly straddles soupiness and pulpiness, a dollop of ricotta adds a suave creaminess and a faint tang, and a few spoonfuls of aromatic basil pesto push it over the top. If only they could figure out a way to can that." ... 508 Greenwich Street, at Spring Street, 212-219-2444 [NYC]

Frank Bruni says Table XII "is defiantly retro and proudly old-fashioned, in terms of both its food and its setting." ... "Ravioli filled with porcini mushrooms were earthy, rich and expertly cooked. Lemon spaghetti, a recurring special, had butter, cream and the scary-exhilarating richness of an alfredo, but it also had lemon juice and lemon zest, which together cut through the clog and sharpened the dish. We loved it." ... web site, 109 East 56th Street, between Park and Lexington Avenues, 212-750-5656 [MenuPages | Citysearch] ... and gave 2 stars to Gilt: "not as intent on gadgetry and eccentric flavor combinations, but ... remains too invested in intricate constructions, with so many facets they fatigue." ... (previous reviews: Steve Cuozzo, David Rosen, Gael Greene (TWIR, January 20, 2006)) ... web site, 455 Madison Avenue, at 50th Street, 212-891-8100 [NYT | Citysearch]

Steve Cuozzo discovers that the "food at my favorite upscale Mexican restaurant was "cross-contaminated." The cheap-eats chain that most grosses me out is cleaner than some places where I lunch in the glittering heart of Midtown." ... he found NYC Restaurant inspection results online ...

Augieland continues living at Morimoto NYC ... "Omakase bar night 3" ... "Omakase bar night 4" ... "Omakase bar night 5: Night five and no repeats yet I am starting to worry Morimoto's creativity will out last me." ... "Omakase bar night 6" ... web site, 88 10th Avenue, between 15th and 16th Streets, 212-989-8883 [Citysearch] ... and likes the honest cooking at Ureña, which is why he gave it "862 squigzillian stars" ... "In New York City these days it is strange to feel a childlike ambition in a restaurant opening. Designers and publicity machines manipulate everything." ... "There is no new ingredient or trendy preparation in his dishes, just confidence, skill, and a unique instinct for pairings and combination of techniques." ... was delighted with "simple amuse bouche composed of black pepper wafers sandwiching cream cheese and a white anchovy filet, on a reduced sherry vinegar and basil oil" ... liked the steamed lobster with pickled rhubarb, braised chicken breast, seared duck breast ... "I’m sure one day soon a buzz will follow, but right now it is all about the food, and the food is good. I recommend going sooner rather than later." ... 37 East 28th Street, between Lexington Avenue and Park Avenue South, 212-213-2328 [NY Metro | Citysearch]

The Girl Who Ate Everything had a Restaurant Week lunch at Union Square Cafe ... the garlic potato chips "flavor was just right" ... "I was very happy with my entree ... Roasted Monkfish with Lentil-Mushroom Ragoût, Preserved Meyer Lemon, and Rocket " ... "one of my most enjoyable eating experiences in NYC" ... web site, 21 East 16th Street, between Fifth Avenue and Union Square West, 212-243-4020 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Metro | Village Voice | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch]

Andrea Strong found "a killer meal" at The Orchard ... 162 Orchard Street, between Stanton and Rivington Streets, 212-353-3570

____________________________________

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Did we miss your favorite review?

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Technorati Tags: New York, NYC, Manhattan, restaurants, restaurant reviews, this week in reviews, week in reviews

Posted February 10, 2006 02:07 PM · Permalink · This Week in Reviews · Comments (0) · TrackBacks (1)

This Week in NYC Reviews - February 3, 2006

Also see our roundup of Michelin 1, 2 and 3 star restaurants with links to reviews ...

For a roundup of DC restaurant reviews from DC food bloggers and media, see This Week in DC Reviews at Hobnob Blog ...

NYC Restaurant inspection results online

The Hungry Rose has an overview of Chinese sweets ... "Sweets are particularly ubiquitous during the Lunar New Year--Chinese bakeries all over the world produce lots of different yummy and delicious treats because having something sweet to eat will help make your New Year just as sweet as well." ...
Nick Paumgarten says there is more than one La Esquina ... "there are really several Esquinas: a taquería, a cafe, and a 'brasserie' in the basement. The main event--meaning the hardest to get into--is the subterranean one" ... "In spite of the pretense, the place is hard to hate" ... don't count on it ... (previous reviews: Frank Bruni (TWIR, September 2, 2005)) ... 106 Kenmare Street, 646-613-1333 or 646-613-8880 or 646-613-7100 ... [MenuPages | NY Metro | Gayot | Citysearch]

foodite had a Restaurant Week dinner at Tabla ... "the food was good, but it must be noted that the service was even better." ... (previous reviews: Veal Cheeks (TWIR, December 23, 2005)) ... web site, 11 Madison Avenue, at East 25th Street, 212-889-0667 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Metro | Village Voice | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch] ... and says the initial impressions of the franchised Original Soupman "aren't promising" ... (previous reviews and commentary, Cynthia Killian, Eater, NewYorkology, and Jonathan Lemire (TWIR, November 4, 2005)) ...

Gael Greene is fighting at Antonucci "over the marvelous soppressata on the salumi gathering of lardo, cured duck, coppa, and prosciutto" ... "best of the entrées is short ribs with celeriac purée [and] the mushroom risotto is perfect." ... 170 East 81st Street, between Lexington and 3rd Avenues, 212-570-5100 [MenuPages | Citysearch]

sassy radish says Wallsé serves "food that's meant to be eaten rather than admired" ... the "the foie gras terrine [is] heavenly" ... (previous review: Big Apple Dining Guide (TWIR, November 4, 2005)) ... web site, 344 West 11th Street, 212-352-2300 [MenuPages | The Economist | NYT | NY Metro | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch]

eating for brooklyn had brunch at applewood ... "The winter omelet with earthy mushrooms, garlic confit, rapini and cheddar cheese really won me over" ... 501 11th Street, Brooklyn, 718-768-2044 [NYT | NY Metro | Village Voice | openlist | Citysearch] ... and had dinner at Cocotte ... "French onion soup and the Cognac burger. The soup was classic with sweet onions and gooey melted cheese [and I] liked the burger's charred exterior, but I couldn't taste how the Cognac made a difference." ... 337 Fifth Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-832-6848 [NYT | NY Metro | openlist | Citysearch]

David Rosen has an odd review of Del Posto ... "Cauliflower souffle, bucatini with cured pork cheeks and roasted squab are the three dishes that leave the best impression. Whole fish and huge slabs of meat are available to share for large tables constituting the most original feature in the menu and service here." ... "Regardless of the price tag, the Del Posto team failed to see an essential point. Actors in a Tennessee Williams' play in 16th-century costumes and a more ornate set are not necessarily reciting Shakespeare" ... what? ... (previous review: Andrea Strong (TWIR, January 20, 2006)) ... 85 Tenth Avenue, between 15th Street and 16th Streets, 212-497-8090 [MenuPages | NY Metro | Village Voice | Citysearch]

Adam Platt says that "if there were ever a dining trend tailor-made to the appetites of stolid Upper West Side burghers" it's Telepan ... and the "food is generally very good" ... "the best thing of all was the great mound of smoked trout, tossed with olive oil and chives and piled over one of Telepan’s buckwheat blini" ... "the seafood dishes I tasted were close to excellent" ... (previous reviews: Steve Cuozzo (TWIR, January 13, 2006), Andrea Strong (TWIR, January 6, 2006)) ... web site, 72 West 69th Street, between Columbus Avenue and Central Park West, 212-580-4300 [MenuPages | Mouthfuls | Citysearch]

gothamist has a new contender for best burger in NYC at Stone Park Cafe ... "You might pass this burger by at first; the menu unassumingly calls it a 'short rib sandwich.'" ... "The sandwich is a miniature, served as an appetizer. Size notwithstanding, it packs a punch. So much so that you might be tempted, as we were, to order a second one and skip the entrees entirely" ... web site, 324 Fifth Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-369-0082 [NYT | NY Metro | Village Voice | openlist | Citysearch]

Blog Chelsea says that even though "the atmosphere has taken shabby chic a bit too literally to where it’s hard to feel glamorous there. And the menu is pretty much incomprehensible" at Bright Food Shop, "it is always unfailingly surprising and delicious" ... 218 Eighth Avenue, between 21st and 22nd Streets, 212-243-4433 [MenuPages | Cheapo New York | NYT | NY Metro | Citysearch] ... and her favorite burger in Chelsea" is at Half King ...505 West 23rd Street, 212-462-4300 [MenuPages | NY Metro | NYT | Citysearch]

Moira Hodgson gave 1 star to Philippe ... "The service at Philippe, which opened six weeks ago, is astoundingly--and often hilariously--bad." ... "serves the best Peking duck I’ve ever tasted" ... "frizzled seaweed greens are deep-fried with a touch of sugar--and they’re terrific" ... "the green prawns and the crispy XO beef [were] disappointing." ... web site, 33 East 60th Street, between Park and Madison Avenues, 212-644-8885 [MenuPages | Gayot | Citysearch]

Peter Meehan likes Minangasli: "It is very good and very cheap and there are a dozen or more dishes that anyone with even a cursory knowledge of Indonesia cuisine will not be able to pass by." ... "It also turns out that my long-held fear that New York was never going to have an Indonesian restaurant worth traveling to was in vain. Minangasli is it." ... "Nasi rames, combination plates, are the go-to option when dining alone" ... satays "were excellent at Minangasli" ... beef rendang "was in top form here" ... (previous review: Robert Sietsema (TWIR, January 27, 2006)) ... 86-10 Whitney Avenue, Elmhurst, Queens, 718-429-8207 [Mouthfuls | chowhound]

Steve Cuozzo finds out Jovia uses web cams to monitor staff ... and customers ... and so do other restaurants ... "Jovia, it turns out, is wired up the wazoo with cameras that preserve video images on a hard drive. So are lots of other places. Let it be a lesson for cheaters dining out on the sly and executives sneaking a meal with the competition: You're being watched and recorded, too." ... "Daniel Boulud keeps an eye on tables from his kitchen, and Thomas Keller watches his kitchen at Per Se at Columbus Circle from his French Laundry in the Napa Valley." ...

Augieland gave "831 ohwellilian stars" to Tomoe ... "No one could have eaten the pieces I was served in one or even two bites -- they were gy-normous. There was also nothing truly unique offered." ... "All the fish was as fresh as it could be, but nothing was of exceptional quality." ... 172 Thompson Street, between Bleecker and Houston Streets, 212-777-9346 [MenuPages | sushi NYC | NYT | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch] ... and appears to have moved into Morimoto NYC ... "Omakase bar night 1" ... "Omakase bar night 2" ... 88 10th Avenue, between 15th and 16th Streets, 212-989-8883 [Citysearch]

Twenty bucks a day likes the Kwik Meal cart at the "corner of 45th St. and 6th Ave." ... this "absurdly clean cart produces one of the finest lamb sandwiches this side of Kings Highway" ... "The lamb with pita was excellent" ... "At $5.75, on the expensive end of cart food, but on the far-low end of the restaurant price range – and this food tasted like it was made at a good restaurant" ... southwest corner of 45th Street and 6th Avenue [Cheapo New York | NY Metro | Roadfood.com | NY Press] ... and went back to an old haunt ... Mandoo Bar ... "kimchi mandoo ($8) were especially good" ... if you're "in the mood for food that’s a little flashy, bibimbop (basic version is $9) fits the bill - it’s kind of like a liquid-less rice soup crossed with fajitas" ... web site, 2 West 32nd Street, 212-279-3075 [MenuPages | NYT | NY Metro | Village Voice | openlist | Gayot] ... "didn’t like the steak sandwich" at Mooncake Foods ... "The sliced steak was grilled perhaps a little long, and the cut of meat was tough enough that it was nearly impossible to bite through it, but the garlic dill mayo and peppers were still delightful" ... 28 Watts Street, at 6th Avenue, 212-219-8888 [MenuPages | NY Metro | Village Voice | openlist | Citysearch]

Frank Bruni gave 1 star to Barbounia ... "For a starter, try a grilled kebab of minced beef and minced lamb." ... "Or go for saganaki, a pool of molten kasseri cheese." ... "Rabbit braciola is a better bet" than braised duck or veal medallions ... "It serves crispy-skinned red snapper as an entree, and on most nights it also presents the possibility of grilled dourade, branzino or pompano. All of this fish was impeccably cooked." ... (previous reviews: Moira Hodgson (TWIR, January 13, 2006), Andrea Strong (TWIR, December 23, 2005)) ... web site, 250 Park Avenue South, at 20th Street, 212-995-0242 [NY Metro | Gayot | Citysearch] ... and had dinner at Paradou ... "only some of what we ate, including a Kobe-style beef tartare, impressed us" ... "two side dishes we tried, ratatouille and a potato gratin, were terrific" ... web site, 8 Little West 12th Street, between Ninth and Washington Avenues, 212-463-8345 [MenuPages | NY Metro | Village Voice | openlist | Citysearch]

Mona's Apple, after eating at Mo Pitkin's House of Satisfaction, was "drooling rethinking this meal and I might have to go get lunch in the middle of writing this post, if I don't eat my arm first" ... "the chicken club with apple-smoked bacon ... could go down as one of my favorite sandwiches of all time" ... "the garlic fries were incredible" ... (previous reviews: Bergers & More (TWIR, January 27, 2006), Andrea Thompson (TWIR, November 11, 2005), Andrea Strong (TWIR, October 21, 2005), Peter Meehan (TWIR, September 30, 2005)) ... web site, 34 Avenue A, between 2nd and 3rd Streets, 212-777-5660 [MenuPages | Gayot | Citysearch]

A Hamburger Today also went to Mo Pitkin's ... "Our first venture into the world of crazyburgers, is the Mo Burger" ... "a half-pound beef burger topped with fried onions, a fried egg and chopped chicken liver" ... "I loved the mix of the egg, fried onion and ground beef. Both the textures and the tastes complement each other well. Unfortunately, the chopped liver was a disappointing addition to the burger experience. The saltiness of the recipe combined with the quantity of chopped liver was very distracting. More importantly, the meat was just average." ... the "cheddar-burger was in the good-but-not-great category" ...

Veal Cheeks says Mas (farmhouse) is "a restaurant that doesn't need tricks, its kitchen is a treat. Yet, Mas fitfully pretends that it is a farmhouse in a village in Provence, not a hip space in the Village in Manhattan" ... "Of our appetizers, the outstanding issue was Roasted Beets, baked with Goat Cheese, Baby Greens, Almonds, and Cucumbers. This is probably the finest vegetarian dish I have had this year." ... "the Roast Duck with Bahri Date Puree, Sauteed Brussel Sprouts and Chestnuts was one of the better duck treatments I have tasted and surely the best thing to happen to Brussels sprouts since Lambic beer and eel pie." ... 39 Downing Street, at Bedford Street, 212-255-1790 [MenuPages | NYT | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch] ... The Red Cat: "sea diver scallops on a citrus salad ... suffered from scallops not so lissome as the diners. Their chewiness suggested that perhaps the kitchen was offered a wholesaler’s deal, too tempting to resist" ... "Sauteed Muscovy Duck Breast with Sweet and Sour Delicata Squash with Scallion and Rice Salad. I enjoyed this wild poultry, particular with the squash hash. It lacked a sweet/sour tension, but the richness of the squash complemented the duck with wintery eloquence." ... web site (plays Johnny Cash's "I Walk the Line" in endless loop), 227 10th Avenue, at 23rd Street, 212-242-1122 [MenuPages | NYT | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch] ... had dinner at 5 Ninth, "contemporary American cuisine filtered through Singapore nights" ... "Nouveau Amerasian" ... "Best of the three courses was my appetizer, Veal Bacon and Egg Congee, cooked in a clay pot with Chili Paste and Shiitake mushrooms" ... "Loup de Mer (a variety of seabass), steamed, and served with chili lime paste, ginger, and cilantro and bok choy greens. The fish, otherwise well cooked, was swimming in a soupy essence that detracted from the plate" ... (previous review: foodie nyc (TWIR, December 16, 2005))web site, 5 Ninth Avenue, at West 12th Street, 212-929-9460 [MenuPages | NYT | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch] ... says Cookshop "is much like many other medium-priced restaurants found throughout New York neighborhoods. The food is creative, fun, and satisfying, but is limited by constraints of cost and inspiration." ... (previous reviews: Andrea Thompson (TWIR, December 16, 2005), Frank Bruni (TWIR, December 2, 2005), Hal Rubenstein (TWIR, November 18, 2005), Andrea Strong (TWIR, November 11, 2005), NYC Nosh (TWIR, October 14, 2005)) ... 156 10th Avenue, at 20th Street, 212-924-4440 [MenuPages | Citysearch] ... and had lunch at Fleur de Sel ... "I started with the finest soup I have had in New York, [the] parsnip soup with roasted chestnut/parsley ravioli was exquisite." ... entree was "Pan-Seared Drum Fish with Baby Carrots and Mushrooms in a Lobster Whisky Emulsion ... a satisfying alliance of fish and vegetables. However, the emulsion didn't have much of an impact. The fish was rich (Fleur de Sel is a butter peddler), but it was an earthbound contrast to the transcendent soup." ... (previous review: Big Apple Dining Guide (TWIR, November 4, 2005)) ... 5 East 20th Street, between 5th Avenue and Broadway, 212-460-9100 [MenuPages | NYT | Citysearch]

Big Apple Dining Guide also ate at The Red Cat ... "Tempura Green Beans [were] as good as ever.... Better than candy to a kid." ... and had "Roasted monkfish cheeks with hearts of palm salad and sweet hot sauce [and] the Beach Boys" ... and had a Restaurant Week lunch at Eleven Madison Park ... "the champagne pear soup ... was perfect" ... "the braised short ribs with broccoli rabe, blue d'auvergne and puree of a root vegetable that escapes me. ... The short rib was flawless, the puree a nice texture to go with it and the bitterness of the broccoli rabe and the salty earthiness of the blue d'auvergne provided a carnival of flavors and textures." ... ""I simply don't know why this place wasn't packed with people." ... web site, 11 Madison Avenue, at 24th Street, 212-889-0905 [MenuPages | NYT | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch]

Kris Ensminger has a list of dim sum places ... but she missed Chatham Restaurant, 9 Chatham Square, 212-267-0220 ... our review is here ...

The Girl Who Ate Everything had Ethiopian at Awash... the meat sambusa: "Whoaaa, this was good. It reminded me of a delicate spring roll made of phyllo dough whose outside layers were light and crispy and the innermost layers, soft and chewy" ... and liked the "teff injera, a pancake-like bread traditionally made from teff flour" ... and liked the "two-person combination platter of two meat dishes and three vegetarian dishes" ... web site, 338 East 6th, between 1st and 2nd Avenues, 212-982-9589 [MenuPages | Citysearch]

The Impetuous Epicure describes Rai Rai Ken as "a quick pop-in and go ramen restaurant" ... "shoyu ramen was really good. The noodles had a very nice bite to it and broth was very good. The pork was tender" ... (previous review: Twenty Bucks a Day (TWIR, October 28, 2005)) ... 214 East 10th Street, between 1st and 2nd Avenues, 212-977-7030 [MenuPages | yelp | NY Metro | IgoUgo]

NYC nosh's favorite dish at Hong Kong Station "is lai fun noodles with curried fish balls and a few vegetables" ... you "build" your soup here ... 128 Hester Street, east of Bowery, 212-966-9382 [NY Metro]

____________________________________

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Technorati Tags: New York, NYC, Manhattan, restaurants, restaurant reviews, this week in reviews, week in reviews

Posted February 3, 2006 10:07 AM · Permalink · This Week in Reviews · Comments (1) · TrackBacks (1)

This Week in NYC Reviews - January 27, 2006

Winter Restaurant Week starts January 23 and runs for 1 more week, excluding weekends: January 30-February 3, 2006 ...

Also see our roundup of Michelin 1, 2 and 3 star restaurants with links to reviews ...

For a roundup of DC restaurant reviews from DC food bloggers and media, see This Week in DC Reviews at Hobnob Blog ...

NYC Restaurant inspection results online

Culinary Historians of New York will feature Joanna Waley-Cohen talking about "Gastronomy and Gluttony in Early Modern China" on January 31, 2006, 6:30 pm sign-in ... flyer here (1-page pdf) ...

Jeff Vandam looks at Uncle Paulie's Restaurant, "the only restaurant in a neighborhood full of hard-labor businesses" ... "The fare at Uncle Paulie's is a cut above most lunch-counter fodder, much of it cooked fresh by Mr. Pedro himself, who is, in fact, an uncle. He prepares his own veal Marsala, lemon chicken and grilled, roasted pork chops. A full plate costs $6." ... Greenpoint Avenue and Monitor Street, Greenpoint, Brooklyn, across the street from the Newtown Creek Water Pollution Control Plant ... we hope Twenty Bucks a Day checks it out ...
Veal Cheeks compares 2 Filipino restaurants ... Cendrillon ... had "a goat curry, served with plantain and a tangy fruit chutney. The best feature was the light rice pancakes that permitted the belief that one was treated to Moo Shu Goat. It was the high point of the meal" ... as an entree had "Salt Roasted Duck with Mango and Tomatillo Chutney and Cellophane Noodles ... for which the chutney was a necessary accessory" ... (previous reviews: Amateur Gourmet (TWIR, August 26, 2005), and Frank Bruni (TWIR, August 5, 2005)) ... web site, 45 Mercer Street, 212-343-9012 [MenuPages | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch] ... and Ihawan, which "was local to the core" ... "lunch for two was only a bit more than an entree at Cendrillon" ... "Ordering a barbecue stick I imagined a small satay. What was served verged on being half a pig on a stick. The stick must have measured close on two feet with a large fillet of sweet and zesty thin cut pork." ... 40-06 70th Street, at Roosevelt Avenue, Queens, 718-205-1480 [Bridge and Tunnel Club | openlist | Citysearch] ... had lunch at Gotham Bar and Grill, "one of the essential New York restaurants" ... "this could well have been the impressive lunch during my New York stay" ... "Moroccan Spiced Rack of Lamb with Couscous Salad, Roasted Eggplant and Lemon-Black Pepper Jus [:the] lamb was superb, as was its jus. I was less impressed by the couscous and eggplant" ... web site, 12 East 12th Street, at 5th Avenue, 212-620-7810 [MenuPages | NYT | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch]

eat drink one woman says one word describes Hope & Anchor: OVERDRAMA ... and even though her "turkey burger with avocado ($8) was pretty tasty, the fries were crisp and hot, my ginger cosmo (ginger vodka, grand marnier, lime, and white cranberry juice) nice and strong, and the singing proprietor Joe was amiable and adorable... I'M NOT COMING BACK" ... 347 Van Brunt Street, at Wolcott Street, Brooklyn, 718-237-0276 [NYT | openlist | Citysearch]

Augieland gave Devi "272 Jaganmatillian stars" ... had "the tasting menu with its paired wines" ... not-so-great service, but "As for the food, it really was great." ... "dinner was exceptional and I will definitely be going back for the food. I strongly suggest against the wine parings, though." ... web site, 8 East 18th Street, between 5th Avenue and Broadway, 212-691-1300 [MenuPages | NYT | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch]

Plate Of The Day isn't screaming for the ice cream at Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory ... "a cup of the vanilla with chocolate chips [was not] the very best ice cream i’ve ever had but for the scenic view and the amount they give you, it’s definitely worthwhile." ... Fulton Ferry Landing Pier, 1 Water Street, Brooklyn, 718-246-3963 [NYT | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch]

The Girl Who Ate Everything had a Restaurant Week lunch at DB Bistro Moderne ... and had "indescribable duck raviole" ... but the best part of the meal was "the little, lovingly shaped frozen vanilla blop" that accompanied dessert ... web site (not the right use of Cab Calloway tunes), 55 West 44th Street, 212-391-2400 [MenuPages | NYT | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch]

eating for brooklyn says the pizza at Fornino "was excellent. Not in the DiFara's/Grimaldi's league, Fornino is a wood-fired, artisanal league of its own. This pizza really reminds me of the kind you get in Italy. I love both New York style pizza and the Italian pies. Neither is better, just different." ... (previous review: slice (TWIR, January 13, 2006)) ... 187 Bedford Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-384-6004 [NYT | openlist | Citysearch]

Bergers & More "could have had 3" of the spiked egg cream at Mo Pitkin’s House of Satisfaction ... "the food is good, but it is a little gimmicky" ... (previous reviews: Andrea Thompson (TWIR, November 11, 2005), Andrea Strong (TWIR, October 21, 2005), Peter Meehan (TWIR, September 30, 2005)) ... web site, 34 Avenue A, between 2nd and 3rd Streets, 212-777-5660 [MenuPages | Gayot | Citysearch]

gothamist loved the Camembert Panini from Le Kiosk ... 75 East 1st Street, 646-234-1742 [Village Voice]

Salli Vates made it to Gilt: "I found myself commenting that we were eating snowflakes - intricate works of art which melted in our mouths." (see reviews in last week's TWIR, January 20, 2006) ... and Mitsuwa Marketplace, "a sort of Disneyland for those who love Japanese food and culture (but especially food). The food court/grocery/shopping complex used to be known as Yaohan, but after changing names and undergoing renovation, it's even more of a food destination than before. Although Mitsuwa is not technically in New York, it's just a $2.00, 30-minute ride from Port Authority's Gate 51. The shuttle operates about every 30 minutes." ... web site, 595 River Road, Edgewater, NJ, 201-941-9113

The Impetuous Epicure had "Szechuan Chicken Dumplings with chili and white soy beans" at Rickshaw Dumpling Bar, but "the filling wasn’t really up to muster. Sure, it tasted like chicken, just really bland chicken that was slightly spicy" ... however, the "Chocolate Soup Dumplings [were] actually pretty good” ... web site, 61 West 23rd Street, between 5th and 6th Avenues, 212-924-9220 [MenuPages | Village Voice | NYT | Citysearch]

Robert Sietsema makes us want to try Minangasli ... "beef rendang ($6.95) has never tasted so good—in New York, at least." ... "the Sumatran satay turns these meat sticks (choose lamb, beef, or chicken) into a full meal. The brochettes arrive flung like pickup sticks across marvelous cubes of compressed rice starch called lontong, flooded with a sweet dark sauce and garnished with red chiles and fried shallots. A dish of more savor and delicacy can hardly be imagined." ... 86-10 Whitney Avenue, Elmhurst, Queens, 718-429-8207 [Mouthfuls | chowhound]

Pascale Le Draoulec cautions readers to not be misled by an empty HQ ... "What makes [HQ's tuna tartare] rise above New York's tartare tonnage is the sticky brown nectar of curried honey that rings the raw fish. Spicy, sweet and so surprising." ... "Order the halibut, and you will be served a generous fillet riding a crisped hash-brown surfboard in a creamy sea of smoked mussels. Swiss chard makes a paltry (but delicious) attempt to cut the richness of this dreamy dish." ... (previous review: Moira Hodgson (TWIR, December 2, 2005)) ... web site, 90 Thompson Street, between Prince and Spring Streets, 212-966-2755 [MenuPages | Citysearch]

Eric Asimov believes Spiga "has mastered the art of offering flavors associated with sweetness -- cocoa, honey, even licorice -- without the sweetness itself" ... "Too many dishes contained dried fruit, honey or chocolate. Fearing the worst, we tried as many as we could. Instead, we found compositions of exquisite balance in which the chef, Salvatore Corea, brought out the underlying flavors of the ingredients without permitting sweetness to intrude." ... 200 West 84th Street, Manhattan, 212-362-5506 [MenuPages | Citysearch]

David Rosen gave 1 star to Taboon ... "The menu reads as enticingly as the decor, but the kitchen does a poor job translating words into plates. In fact, after the delicious homemade bread baked with tangy yogurt spread, there is little else that does not warrant critique." ... "whole sea bass and the chicken ... are irremediably dry." ... "steak is tasteless and stringy" ... "The bill for our large table already included a 20-percent gratuity, but our server informed us only after we had signed a credit-card receipt on we which we left an additional 20-percent tip." ... why did it get 1 star? ... 773 Tenth Avenue, at 52nd Street, 212-713-0271 [MenuPages | NYT | openlist | Citysearch]

Mona's Apple was disappointed by the fried artichoke hearts at Pair of 8's ... "But the sweet potato puree was excellent, almost like a very thick apple sauce, but with sweet potatoes. Mmm." ... (previous reviews: Frank Bruni (TWIR, January 20, 2006), Gael Greene (TWIR, December 9, 2005), Pascale Le Draoulec (TWIR, December 2, 2005)) ... 568 Amsterdam Avenue, between 87th and 88th Streets, 212-874-2742 [MenuPages | Gayot | Citysearch]

Joshua Bernstein says Palava Hut "is one of the warmest, most welcoming establishments I’ve visited in months." ... it carries "Guinness, Heineken and Beck’s in the stomach-pleasing 24-ounce size" for $4 ... "on one visit I tried fried rice, served alongside goat on the bone. It swam in a blandly named 'red sauce.' The okra-studded fried rice was savory and delicious--and large enough for two--while the goat was tender. The red sauce, however, was a five-alarm fire." ... sounds like a great place ... if you like music, read the entire article for a nice bonus ... 992 Atlantic Avenue, between Grand and Classon Avenues, Brooklyn, 718-623-3174

Steve Cuozzo is "Sick and Attired" ... "a tip for the female managers at Spice Market who wander the floor in Club Med-like, back-exposing sarongs, and for certain women I saw dining at Jovia the other night: Butt cracks have their place. That place, however, is not a restaurant where the proper appetite is culinary, not carnal. Call me stodgy, but lots of what passes for casual today makes me want to puke." ...

Peter Meehan writes that Falai Panetteria is "part patisserie, part bakery, part reasonably priced dinner spot. In fact, it's all those things at once, but it's hard to figure which is the most compelling reason to visit." ... "Veal meatballs ($7) are available as an appetizer and as a main course. And though ethereal is an overplayed adjective in food writing, it describes Mr. Falai's meatballs to a 'T.' They are light. They are impossibly tender. They are delicate in a way that most meatballs aren't." ... 79 Clinton Street, at Rivington Street, 212-777-8956 [Citysearch]

Big Apple Dining Guide had the Scandia Meatball Burger at Smorgas Chef: "On one half of a Balthazar bun sat 8 or 9 (maybe 10) swedish meatballs with melted jarlsberg on top" ... (sounds like Ikea) ... "was also served with chive mashed potatoes that tasted exactly how my Tante Kari makes them." ... ... web site, 53 Stone Street, 212-422-3500 [MenuPages | openlist | Citysearch]

Andrea Strong has a roundup of places serving melted cheese dishes ... Artisanal ... Home ... Craftbar ... Rosa Mexicano ... Mercadito ... Barbounia ... Country ... Christos ... Ama ... Butter ...

Andrea Strong believes the food at Nobu 57 "is as good as I remember it from many meals at Nobu downtown, and in fact it is even better" ... "the Yellowtail Sashimi with Jalepeno ... is perfect" ... "we were not prepared for how insanely good the king crab tempura with 'Amazu' sweet ponzu ($26) would be. The dish is a new to the menu, and it is brilliant" ... "the beef tenderloin ... was simply grilled and simply divine" ... (previous reviews: Frank Bruni and A Brooklyn Life (TWIR, September 30, 2005)) ... web site, 40 West 57th Street, 212-757-3000 [MenuPages | NY Metro | Citysearch]

Frank Bruni spent a week as a waiter ... "I learned that for servers in a restaurant as busy as the East Coast Grill, waiting tables isn't a job. It's a back-straining, brain-addling, sanity-rattling siege." ... but we agree with what Bruni's fellow-server Tina said, "Some people are interested in having the experience of being disappointed." ... Waiter Rant offers to trade places with Frank for a week ... and gave 1 star to The Spotted Pig ... "Two hours might in fact be an acceptable wait for the Pig's fantastic gnudi, which are soft, rich dumplings made of sheep's milk ricotta and topped with fried sage leaves, browned butter and Parmesan." ... "the roasted black bass [was] astonishingly moist, and the herbs atop it (cilantro, thyme, flat-leaf parsley) were so fresh that my companion wondered aloud if the Pig had its own roof garden." ... "Go for lunch on a weekday." ... "Skip weekend brunch." ... web site, 314 West 11th Street, at Greenwich Street, 212-620-0393 [MenuPages | openlist | Citysearch | Gayot]

The Bruni Digest had a scoop: "The Count poses as a WAITER??" ... and looks at Frank Bruni's Spotted Pig review: "The Spotted Pig: Too Hot Right Now" ...

NYC nosh wants a job near Cafe Zaiya, which "makes its own impressive selection of sweet treats and replaces them with fresh items throughout the day" ... "we are madly and passionately in love with the yakimochi. These little discs are made from pounded glutinous rice dough, flecked with black sesame seeds, and filled with a velvety sweet white bean paste. They are grilled or baked" ... also serves lunch ... (Salli Vates loves their sugar-powdered chocolate souffles) ... 18 East 41st Street, between 5th and Madison Avenues, 212-779-0600 [Yelp | Citysearch]

Amateur Gourmet ate at Cafe Asean: the green curry was "pretty good food in a charming environment" ... 117 West 10th Street, between 6th and Greenwich Avenues, 212-633-0348 [MenuPages | NYT | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch] ... and "liked the burger" at Sparky's All-American ... 333 Lafayette Street, 212-334-3035 [NYT | Gayot | Citysearch]

Twenty bucks a day went to the newly opened Hanco for banh mi, "the sandwich king of the eastern hemisphere, and one of the city’s premiere cheap eats" ... ordered the classic spicy (pork or chicken?) ... " the usual banh mi cold toppings were augmented by slivers of a green pepper, which presented some additional crunch" ... 85 Bergen Street, Brooklyn, 718-858-6818 ... and had an excellent Chinese New Year dinner at Grand Sichuan International in Chelsea ... "ordered something called a 'spicy lamb casserole' from the special Chinese New Year menu [that was] more like a stew than anything else" ... "could easily feed two adventurous people, provided they didn’t mind sucking the meat off of various bones (the meat is tender and flavorful enough to make this rewarding)" ... (note that Grand Sichuan International is a small NYC chain and they are different than Grand Sichuan on Canal Street in Chinatown) ... web site, 229 9th Avenue, at 24th Street, 212-620-5200 [MenuPages | NYT | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch] ... had dinner at Rocco’s Calamari (not the same as Rocco's Pizzeria on 5th Avenue between 78th and 79th in Brooklyn) ... "The calamari ($9), which arrived last, was by far the best dish, and the least generic. Fresh, perfectly fried, and flavorful, this was among the best presentations of that oft-abused shellfish I’ve ever tasted." ... "other than the fried calamari, none of the dishes were truly exceptional" ... 6408 Ft. Hamilton Parkway, Brooklyn, 718-833-2109 [Village Voice | Citysearch]

____________________________________

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Did we miss your favorite review?

Let us know: aguyinnewyork [at] gmail.com ... we're especially interested in hearing from NYC bloggers ...

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. . . . . . . . .

Technorati Tags: New York, NYC, Manhattan, restaurants, restaurant reviews, this week in reviews, week in reviews

Posted January 27, 2006 10:37 AM · Permalink · This Week in Reviews · Comments (0) · TrackBacks (2)

This Week in NYC Reviews - January 20, 2006

Winter Restaurant Week starts January 23 and runs for 2 weeks, excluding weekends: January 23-27, 2006 and January 30-February 3, 2006 ...

Also see our roundup of Michelin 1, 2 and 3 star restaurants with links to reviews ...

For a roundup of DC restaurant reviews from DC food bloggers and media, see This Week in DC Reviews at Hobnob Blog ...

NYC Restaurant inspection results online

Michael Saul warns: "Before you eat at your favorite restaurant, the city thinks there's something you should read - and it isn't a menu. A new Web site unveiled yesterday by the Department of Health and Mental Hygiene allows diners to know what inspectors found the last time they checked out the kitchens of the city's 21,295 eateries. "New Yorkers obviously love food and they love all information about food that they can get - this is providing more information to people," Health Commissioner Thomas Frieden said yesterday as he announced the site, www.nyc.gov/health/restaurants." ... and has a list of "Golden Apple Award winners" ... "Readers, uh, digest: City restaurant inspectors dish up grades on Web site," NY Daily News, January 19, 2006
Not a review, but we loved the title and lede from an article by Cynthia Kilian: "Good Nitro, and Good Luck" ... "LIQUID nitrogen isn't just for welders anymore. Some top chefs use it, too." ... "' It's very fascinating stuff,'" said Gilt chef Paul Liebrandt ... next hot culinary trick: oxyacetylene cooking ... welders use it and it's fascinating stuff ... bet WhiteTrashBBQ has some tips ...

Joe DeSalazar of foodie is moving from gothamist to decentcontent ...

Lauren Collins asks if 202 is "Restaurant, Bar, Boutique?" ... "Bubble and squeak, an ample casserole of cabbage and potatoes, is like a starch pie, browned on the top and creamy underneath." ... "missing the tuna burger--which, unlike most versions, never comes overcooked and is slathered with guacamole--would be the worse crime." ... 75 Ninth Avenue, between 15th and 16th Streets, 646-638-1173 [NYT | Citysearch]

The Girl Who Ate Everything had dinner at Soba Koh ... "ordered the early dinner set ($16), which included savory egg custard, soba (hot or cold), a tempura medley, and broccoli rabe" ... "The soba was flat and thin with a light flavor. Of course, it was delicious" ... "loved every piece of tempura" ... "loved" the black sesame pudding ... (previous reviews: NYC nosh (TWIR, November 18, 2005), Salli Vates (TWIR, August 19, 2005)) ... 309 East 5th Street, 212-254-2244 [Citysearch] ... and says "the cakes are ADORABLE!" at the Golden Dragon Boat Cafe and Bakery ... lots of pics of adorable cakes ... 111 Bowery, 212-274-1822

NYC nosh had dinner at Whym ... "the chopped salad, which here features asparagus, bosc pear, beet cubes, crumbled feta, and a basil vinaigrette ... works and is delicious" ... calamari, "served very lightly battered and dredged with a sweet chili sauce and a touch of harissa ... imports elements of Chinese and Middle Eastern cuisines in equal measure. The result is a genuine winner of a dish." ... stuffed pork chop with polenta "was very well-cooked" ... 889 9th Avenue, between 57th and 58th Streets, 212-315-0088 [Citysearch]

Robert Sietsema had Greek mountain food at Metsovo ... "anyone who arrives intent on ordering seafood must be crazy, or ignorant of the treasures this joint is capable of." ... "Mountain food depends on sheep and goats for its main courses, and there's nothing better than the baby goat fricassee ($22), which the menu refers to as 'Ali Pasha.'" ... "Lamb Yannina ($19) is another mountain standard. While it looks good on paper, it turns out to be rather dull in execution." ... 65 West 70th Street, 212-873-2300 [MenuPages | NYT | openlist | Citysearch]

A Guy In New York says the fries at Burke Bar Cafe are "incredible ...crispy, not soggy" ... also liked the margherita pizza and braised spareribs ... (previous reviews: Slashfood and A Hamburger Today (TWIR, December 16, 2005)) ... general web site, Burke in the Box web site, 1000 Third Avenue, 59th Street entrance, between Lexington and Third Avenues, 212-705-3800 [NY | The Strong Buzz | Daily News]

Pascale Le Draoulec gave 1.5 stars to The Cafe at Country ... "flavor and vibrancy were often left out of the equation and food tasted well, flat. This, despite the many clever and interesting flourishes from the kitchen." ... (previous review: Frank Bruni (TWIR, October 28, 2005)) ... 90 Madison Avenue, at 29th Street (in the Carlton Hotel), 212-889-7100 [MenuPages | Gayot | Citysearch]

Bergers & More had his first burger of 2006 at Paul's ... the burgers "were 8 ounces of delight ... greasy, flavorful and cooked to our specifications. They also got it right with the bun which was slightly smaller than the burger so you weren't stuck with a boring bun at the end. The shoestring fries were top-notch" ... the milkshake "was mostly milk and little shake" ... 131 2nd Avenue, between 7th Street and St. Marks Place, 212-529-3033 [MenuPages | NYT | Gayot | Citysearch] ... and did not like the sliders at Burke in the Box at Bloomingdales ... "the sliders which at $9.95 include 3 mini-burgers in haute-cuisine style ... looked terrific and tasted terrible. A serious miss." ... earlier in the day is better ... and what about the fries? ...

Moira Hodgson gave 1 star to Heirloom ... "portobello 'foie gras' ... doesn’t taste in the least bit like foie gras. It tastes like portobello mushrooms, and they are perfectly nice in and of themselves" ... the tofu was "leathery " ... had "a lovely salad of local greens laced with pecans and topped with candied grapefruit on sticks. Another terrific dish was made with grits, smoked hominy, avocado and queso fresco, with a roasted tomato poblano adding just the right note of heat and acidity." ... (previous reviews: Frank Bruni (TWIR, January 6, 2006), Salli Vates (TWIR, December 16, 2005)) ... web site, 191 Orchard Street, 212-228-9888 [MenuPages | Citysearch]

Veal Cheeks writes that his dinner at Per Se "was the best meal that I have yet eaten in this culinary capital. I will go one step further, before taking a step back. This was my first meal where all complaints deserve to be in small print." ... "failures are in the disposal, not on the tasting menu. The fact that this was the Chef's Tasting Menu, reconceived each market day, made its gaffe-free quality astonishing." ... "We selected the Chef's Tasting Menu: Nine courses composed daily, plus a few extras." ... "At the great restaurants, it is not doing the big things right, but doing the tiniest things astonishingly" ... web site, 10 Columbus Circle, at 60th Street and 8th Avenue, Time-Warner Center, 212-823-9335 [MenuPages | NYT | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch] ... and says that Heirloom "in its current incarnation has much to offer New York diners, but rethinking the menu could make this a destination restaurant, rather than a diverting curiosity" ... "the Stir-Fried Spicy Rice Flour Noodles and Root Vegetable Kimchee, created with broccoli stems, honshimeiji (beech mushrooms), and galangal (ginger-like) teriyaki sauce [was] a happy mixture" ...

Julia Moskin has an overview of Bukharian restaurants in Rego Park, Queens ... the "kebabs, stews, noodles and dumplings are savory and satisfying" ...

Mona's Apple likes Pommes Frites, "a specialty shop serving authentic Belgian fries" ... "highlight of PF is the plethora of sauces you can choose from. We tried the sampler of three: parmesan peppercorn, roasted garlic mayo, and "especial" which is onions on top of ketchup on top of mayo. You can't go wrong with either of these." ... web site, 123 2nd Avenue, between 7th and 8th Streets, 212-674-1234 [MenuPages | NYT | openlist | Citysearch]

Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld gave 2 stars to Blaue Gans ... "blutwurstgröstl, or blood sausage, is all crumbly baked goodness, mixed with roasted fingerlings, mounded on a fastidiously molded circle of tangy sauerkraut and sprinkled with fresh grated horseradish" ... "In this unpretentious, urbane context, nothing seems the slightest bit overdone." ... "Pork schnitzel is just as delicately breaded, remarkably light and greaseless." ... "As good as the goulash is, the classic Austrian dish called kavalierspitz-boiled beef shoulder, topped with apple-horseradish relish and served with the velvetiest spinach purée imaginable-is better." ... 139 Duane Street, near West Broadway, 212-571-8880 [NYT | Citysearch]

Steve Cuozzo asks some of the same questions we had in his Gilt review, "The Ego Has Landed" ... " Chefs don't come more charmingly full of themselves than young Paul Liebrandt, whose argument-starting, 'modern European' creations might easily set you back $250 a head." ... "But will customers whose checks are not picked up by a newspaper spend as much as they would at Daniel, Jean-Georges or Le Bernardin on a cult-figure, 29-year-old chef in a hotel dining room? Because, stripped of its hype, that's Gilt" ... "With magical dishes like ocean trout slow-cooked with clementines and sunchokes, it's even potentially great. But it makes you want to call 911 — and not because its $92, three-course dinner prix fixe comes with $18-$28 supplements. No, it's the shakedown wine list aimed at wow-the-babe high-rollers who won't know what to make of Liebrandt's cooking that made me scavenge like a vagrant to find anything under $200." ...

David Rosen awards 2 out of 4 stars to Gilt where "Servers descend upon tables with a clumsy attitude that indicates the first sign of troubles to come." ... "Three of the amuse bouches carry descriptions that could be used to describe toiletries. Air, bubbles and foam are respectively employed in combination with the words lemon, oyster and chestnut. Fortunately, the only one that tastes like soap is the lemon air, whereas both the oysters topped with zesty bubbles and the chestnut foam are deliciously appealing." ... "At these prices we expect perfection, and Gilt restaurant is still far from it." .. which is why it only gets 2 stars ... we hope next week is Gilt-free ...

Andrea Strong had dinner at Del Posto ... "Del Posto offers three things: magnificent design, impeccable service, and yes, phenomenal food. They had me at Posto. Indeed, the Batali-Bastianich Trio has a major success on its hands." ... "The vegetable fritto misto with bagna cauda ($15), a compilation of fried vegetables, is clearly the work of a fry-station genius." ... "salumi misti ($18) is also required eating, a selection of fantastic cured and dried meats served with a surprise" ... "There are 15 pastas to choose from at Del Posto, an overwhelming choice especially when you consider that they all sound amazing. ... The pastas are remarkable." ... "The only issue with the pasta tasting is that the courses are served one at a time, and this can add an hour to your dining experience." ... "The lamb three ways ($30) is a flawless dish" ... "the experience of dining there as a whole—the palatial design, the flawless service, the killer food, and the attention to detail—was extraordinary, unique and quite special." ... 85 Tenth Avenue, between 15th Street and 16th Streets, 212-497-8090 [MenuPages | Citysearch]

Frank Bruni gave 1 star to Pair of 8's ... "For $25 [Monday's only], Pair of 8's, a modest new bistro that doesn't feel like a comedown from where you really wanted to go, presents you not only with a two-course meal - appetizer and entree - but also with a glass of red or white wine." ... "The chef, Bill Peet, who worked at Lutèce and Café des Artistes, must believe that less is more when it comes to seasoning. It's a religion he should lose" ... "But his most successful dishes are several notches above what you usually find at a neighborhood restaurant." ... "sorbets and ice creams are made in house, and the sorbets in particular (coconut, lemon, passion fruit) are terrific" ... (previous reviews: Gael Greene (TWIR, December 9, 2005), Pascale Le Draoulec (TWIR, December 2, 2005)) ... 568 Amsterdam Avenue, between 87th and 88th Streets, 212-874-2742 [MenuPages | Gayot | Citysearch] ... and tried Dani ... "I was impressed by some of what I ate at Dani, including a thick, juicy pork cutlet with a thin, crisp crust. I was less taken with other dishes, including cavatelli with braised veal cheeks, which was underseasoned." ... 333 Hudson Street, at Charlton Street, 212-633-9333 [Citysearch]

The Bruni Digest looks at "Pair of 8's: Franklene's Basement" ...

slice finally got to DeMarco's ... and compares it favorably to Di Fara ... "the DeMarco's slices this weblog had Tuesday night for dinner and yesterday afternoon for lunch were very good approximations of the master's [Dominick DeMarco at Di Fara] craft." ... "a similar well-proportioned balance of crust, sauce, and cheese." ... "DeMarco's is very good. And it's only been open a short while. We suspect it'll only get better" ... 146 West Houston Street, at MacDougal Street, 212-253-2290 [MenuPages | Gayot | Citysearch]

Twenty Bucks a Day also went to DeMarco’s ... and had a "Pizza Margherita. It’s the simplest Neapolitan pizza out there – just crust, tomatoes, fresh basil, and mozzarella di bufala. It’s also the easiest to screw up – there’s not much margin for error with so few ingredients, and if any of them are off (or out of balance), the pie just isn’t the same. Fortunately, I was in the hands of a chef who was having an extremely good day." ... "The 12” Margherita is the most European pizza I’ve ever eaten in America" ... and had dinner at La Maison du Couscous ... "though it’s a little expensive, the food is worth traveling to try in any weather" ... "The couscous (interestingly also served in a tajine – I have no idea if this is typical) was sweet in an earthy kind of way, with golden raisins, prunes, and dates." ... web site, 484 77th Street, Brooklyn, 718-921-2400 [NY Metro | Go Brooklyn | Village Voice | Citysearch]

Gael Greene titled his quick review of Gilt "Is it Gilt or just plain brass?" ... web site, 455 Madison Avenue, at 50th Street, 212-891-8100 [NYT | Citysearch]

The Hungry Rose had dinner at Compass ... "salad of heirloom beets and ruby red grapefruit with Greek yogurt and pistachios ... blew me away ... a terrific combination of ingredients" ... "veal tenderloin ... was a rather large, tough and rather texture-less hunk of meat ... I felt I could find this in a diner" ... "mango mousse ... wasn’t the most impressive dessert I’ve had" ... (previous review: Frank Bruni (TWIR, November 25, 2005)) ... web site, 208 West 70th Street, between Amsterdam Avenue and West End Avenue, 212-875-8600 [MenuPages | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch]

Amateur Gourmet has a list of the best things he's eaten in the last two years ...

Big Apple Dining Guide says the 3rd time was the charm for wine at i Trulli ... Bucatini alla Guanciale ... really needs the chili flake. But the pasta was delicious and perfectly cooked. Also, just enough parmagiano." ... "Coniglio - Rabbit roasted in a clay pot with black chickpeas and rosemary ... The essence of rabbit simply wasn't there. The pancetta that wrapped the loin was too rubbery and added little to no flavor." ... "The desserts [Crespelle and Panzerotti] made everything just right for both of us." ... "Overall it was a good dinner. But a bit expensive for what we got. $107.50 before tip." ... web site, 122 East 27th Street, between Lexington and Park Avenues South, 212-481-7372 [MenuPages | NYT | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch] ... had a quick dinner at Petite Abeille: "ordered the Moules Jamaicaines (2 lbs of steamed mussels in a Jamaican curry sauce with apples) which was nothing short of delicious." ... bacon cheddar cheeseburger "was very good as well but the biggest disappointment was the frites." ...web site, 401 East 20th Street, 212-727-1505 [MenuPages | NYT | openlist | Citysearch] ... and had dinner at Cosette ... "escargots came out how I like them: slightly still sizzling (unlike the popping and overbubbling from La Petite Auberge). They were good and had a pleasant but not overly powerful garlic butter which I greatly enjoyed" ... "having tried the cassoulet at Park Bistro, Artisanal and now Cosette within the last few months, I found this to be my least favorite though all were quite different." ... web site, 163 East 33rd Street, between Lexington and 3rd Avenues, 212-889-5489 [MenuPages | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch]

Joan Reminick visited Ali Baba 2 several times ... "would readily return for the borani badim jam, sliced eggplant cooked in tomato sauce with onion and spices, topped with a creamy dollop of yogurt. Hummus, the thick, garlicky Middle Eastern chickpea spread, was good slathered onto the ridged pita-like house bread. I especially enjoyed the sambuseh, crisp dumplings stuffed with a well-spiced hash of ground beef, vegetables and seasoning." ... 17-19 Broadway, Hicksville, NY, 516-931-7111

Peter Gianotti gave 2 stars to Four Food Studio ... "Four Food Studio lands on Route 110 with the heat of a South Beach club, the cool of an upscale- downtown restaurant and the impact of an extraterrestrial. There's nothing like it on Long Island." ... "the crisp-tender combo of rock shrimp and calamari with citrusy aioli and the aromatic duck risotto are well done." ... "But steamed mussels turn up dry; and a shared opener of steamed Manila clams, while in savory broth, is overdone, too. The main course bouillabaisse, artfully arranged, is just bland and near soup-free." ... web site, 515 Broadhollow Road (Route 110), Melville, NY, 631-577-4444

____________________________________

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Posted January 20, 2006 08:07 AM · Permalink · This Week in Reviews · Comments (0) · TrackBacks (1)

This Week in NYC Reviews - January 13, 2006

Also see our roundup of Michelin 1, 2 and 3 star restaurants with links to reviews ...

For a roundup of DC restaurant reviews from DC food bloggers and media, see This Week in DC Reviews at Hobnob Blog ...

The Girl Who Ate Everything went for dim sum at 88 Palace ... and liked the "Shiny Green Dumplings" and "Ginormous Meat Balls" and "Chinese sausage wrapped in steamed bread" and "the super awesome turnip cake" ... what, no chicken feet? ... (previous review: NYC nosh (TWIR, September 23, 2005)) ... 88 East Broadway, under the Manhattan Bridge in the East Broadway Mall where you can also catch a Chinatown bus, 212-941-8886 [Citysearch]
The Bruni Digest, finally, gets around to Frank Bruni's review of Centrico ... "Centrico: Frank Said Knock Mama Out" ...

Peter Meehan likes the pizza at Adrienne's Pizza Bar ... "Pizza purists may be happiest with the nighttime pies [dinner menu], rendered with precision in a Neapolitan style. But the big rectangular pizzas [lunch menu], with their thinnish crusts, charred around the edges and toasted if not exactly crisp in the middle, are certainly good eating." ... 54 Stone Street, between Coenties Alley and William Street, 212-248-3838 [MenuPages | NYT | Citysearch]

slice hjghlights Peter Meehan's review of Adrienne's .. and eats take out from Fornino while at "a Mario Kart DS party" ... the pizzas "were certainly delicious but, as expected, suffered a bit due to time spent in the pizza boxes. Still, it was a luxury being able to order up such 1st place pies while racing for the prize" ... 187 Bedford Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-384-6004 [NYT | openlist | Citysearch]

foodite had baby cow pancreas at Craftbar ... "I took a bite through it's crispy fried exterior to find a pillowy and buttery texture and flavor that was good. It was really good. So good that it's probably unhealthy for you." ... (previous review: Adam Platt (TWIR, August 19, 2005)) ... web site, 900 Broadway at East 20th Street, 212-461-4300 [MenuPages | NYT | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch]

Steve Cuozzo has "some unsolicited advice for the people at new Telepan, the latest place out to prove that the Upper West Side Is Now a Serious Dining Destination: Be nice to your neighbors, because you'll need them when scene-making foodies from afar move on." ... (previous review: Andrea Strong (TWIR, January 6, 2006)) ... web site, 72 West 69th Street, between Columbus Avenue and Central Park West, 212-580-4300 [MenuPages | Mouthfuls | Citysearch]

David Rosen ate at Telepan.... "Among the appetizers, the scallops with mushrooms and spinach are flawless" ... "roasted sirloin steak with an oxtail glaze is by far the best main course we sample here. The steak is as fine as one served in a top-rated steakhouse, but the oxtail glaze gives it a deeper dimension that is both earthy and elegant." ... and did not like the decor: "The two narrow dining rooms, separated by a small oval bar and a charming wine room, are quite gloomy." ...

Veal Cheeks visited Russian Samovar, which "fashions their own vodka. Perhaps they don't rely on a bathtub in the basement, but the infusions are home-made. Among the choices are Tarragon, Garlic, Coriander, and Cranberry Vodka (the most popular). At the suggestion of a companion I ordered Horseradish Vodka, a peasant favorite. This libation was the high point of the evening, pungent while retaining the smooth fire of this fine liquor." ... web site, 256 West 52nd Street, between Broadway and 8th Avenue, 212-757-0168 [MenuPages | NYT | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch] ... and ate at 3 Asian restaurants ... Bali Nusa Indah: "a very satisfying post-theater treat." ... 651 Ninth Avenue, between 45th and 46th Streets, 212-974-1875 [MenuPages | NYT | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch] ... Cafe Mingala: "one of a few Burmese restaurants in town ... Although the ground beef and potato mix was curried, it was a curry that any Brit could love. I fantasize that Thai gourmets whisper that their neighbors are wimps, but the dish was a pleasant surprise: a Boeuf Wellington for everyman." ... 1393B Second Avenue, between 72nd and 73rd Streets, 212-744-8008 [MenuPages | openlist | Citysearch] ... Jackson Diner: "The Jackson buffet doesn't deserve a standing ovation, but at $9.95, it does what it needs to do. I particularly enjoyed the juicy Tandoori Chicken and the sweet, creamy Kheer (Indian rice pudding with raisins). " ... 37-47 74th Street, Jackson Heights, Queens, 718-672-1232 [NYT | Citysearch]

Owen Phillips raves about Fatty Crab ... "the salad of fried pork belly and watermelon, dusted with sesame seeds and set on the pickled rind of the melon—a sweet and savory contrast that makes you long for humid weather." ... (previous reviews: David Rosen (TWIR, December 16, 2005), Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld (TWIR, October 28, 2005)) ... 643 Hudson Street, 212-352-3590 [MenuPages | NYT | Gayot | Citysearch] ... we'll say it again: if you want real Malaysian food, go to Sanur ...

Veal Cheeks also went to Fatty Crab ... the "Watermelon Pickle and Crispy Pork" was "luxurious. The cool and sexy watermelon pickles kept the plate from pure decadence but it was as close as might be found outside Crobar. This was a dish for the Book of Days. Short Rib Rendang, braised with kaffir lime, coconut and chili matched the salad in indulgence." ... "Black Grouper Masak Lemak with a sauce of chilies and potatoes, poached in coconut broth with bok choy and jalapeno was libertine as well." ... Mr. Cheeks, get thee to Sanur ...

Moira Hodgson gave 2 stars to Barbounia, serving "modern Greek cuisine with Mediterranean influences." ... "your red mullet doesn’t arrive hot off the grill garnished only with a piece of lemon; it comes instead with a red-wine shallot reduction. And sardines, “fire-roasted,” are lightly coated with mustard oil and paired with a salad of Granny Smith apples and fennel. Charred octopus gets a kalamata tapenade and is laced with pieces of crystallized lemon. All are delicious." ... 250 Park Avenue South, at 20th Street, 212-995-0242 [NYT | Gayot | Citysearch]

Chris Erikson went searching for the "Real N.Y. Bagel" ... "The sad truth is, for all of New York's pride in its bagels, classic old-school bagels - the kind a generation of city Jews grew up eating, the kind that made New York bagels world-famous - are becoming as rare as 50-cent cups of coffee." ... but likes what he finds at ... The Bagel Hole: "The ultimate old-guard bagel: small, crisp on the outside, moist and chewy on the inside." ... 400 Seventh Avenue, Park Slope, Brooklyn, 718-788-4014 [Citysearch] ... Bruce's Bagels: "Slightly larger, but a top-notch bagel with a nice blistered crust." ... 1975-A Flatbush Avenue, in Marine Park, Brooklyn, 718-377-0061 ... The Bagel Spot: "Defiantly old-school; small and very chewy." ... 4305 14th Avenue, at 43rd Street, Borough Park, Brooklyn, 718-853-4450 ... Daniel's:"Modest-sized and beautifully blistered." ... 569 Third Avenue, 212-972-9733 [Citysearch]

Twenty Bucks a Day got back into town from Vermont ... and rips Mama's Food Shop: "The macaroni and cheese is, indeed, quite tasty – I’ll give them that much. But the veggies and starch really leave something to be desired. They’re served cold! I realize that the afore-mentioned menu explains that they’re served that way because 'Mama' said to do so, but I have a feeling that this 'Mama' isn’t the sort I’d want making my holiday dinners. The egregious laziness of cold vegetables is made particularly obvious by the presence of a microwave (WTF?) near the cash register (and, for what it’s worth, I don’t care that they’re crispy as hell because they’re made in a convection oven if you’ve still got to nuke them like they’re week-old leftovers). I tried the bok choy, the green beans, the turnips, the broccoli, and the sweet potatoes, and none made an impression large enough to overcome their lack of internal energy." ... "Mama’s 'lack of affectation' is a front for its extreme peculiarity, and not in the good sense of that word. " ... 200 East 3rd Street, 212-777-4425 [MenuPages | VillageVoice | NYT | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch] ... and says Nectar is OK ... "How does Nectar’s wrap rate on the global scale of lamb sandwiches? Well, I wouldn’t pick it over a good doner kebap, nor is it the equal of Bedouin Tent’s lamb or merguez sandwiches (both of which, I might add, are cheaper) – both bread and meat at Bedouin Tent are superior. But, for a change of pace, or for those Cobble Hillers who just need a quick bite on the way home, the Moroccan lamb wrap ($7.75) is a fine choice." ... 198 Court Street, at Wyckoff Street, Brooklyn, 718-855-6166 [Citysearch]

Adam Platt went to Falai, which "seems to have developed a following among uptown connoisseurs who favor fashionable new places downtown, and among fashionable Italians who like to dine in places that remind them of their fashionable restaurants back home." ... "The best was the eggy house fettuccini, tossed simply with butter and piled (for $45 a plate) with shavings of white truffle from Alba. If you think the appearance of $45 plates of fettuccini with white truffles is a sign that Clinton Street’s beatnik culinary revolution is over, you might be correct." ... 68 Clinton Street, between Rivington and Stanton Streets, 212-253-1960 [MenuPages | NYT | Citysearch]

eat drink one woman had dinner at Blue Hill at Stone Barns ... "The appetizer course was a knock out" ... Maine crab and "crisp scallop on a bed of slivered fennel and apple" ... "the fish courses [white poached cod and Atlantic char] were impeccable" ... "I pretty much squealed at my plate of Berkshire pork" ... "one of the best meals we'd had in years" ... web site, 630 Bedford Road, Pocantico Hills, NY (just past Tarrytown), 914-366-9600 [New York | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch] ... and at Zabb Queens ... "Its specialty is the Isaan cuisine of the northeast, the region my Mae's family is from. It's kind of like the 'soul food' of Thailand." ... "catfish labb looked a bit like cat food, but it was even better than the white meat chicken labb -- meaty, earthy and smoky, it was laced with plenty of roasted rice and chili heat, set off by the sharp sugar of sliced red onion. Crispy fish floated in a tom yam soup, its deceptive clarity only revealing the explosive lemongrass flavor on the tongue. The star dish was the last one to come to the table -- whole steamed catfish came liberally topped with a halitosis-insuring salsa of lime juice, raw minced garlic and fiery sliced Thai chilies. The white flesh was so tender that the skeleton released itself easily from the satiny white fillet." ... "Zabb easily gives Sripraphai a run for its money." ... web site, 7218 Roosevelt Avenue, Jackson Heights, 718-426-7992 [NYT]

A Guy in New York says Tony Dragonas "may have the best grilled hamburger in NYC" ... southeast corner of East 62nd Street and Madison Avenue, street vendor ... finalist in the 2005 Vendy Awards ...

NYC nosh says Big Nick’s Burger Joint & Pizza Joint "is a local landmark for good reason: its burgers." ... burgers were OK ... "the Crabcake Burger from the Specialty Burgers section of the menu [was] better with ketchup than the over-salted ‘lobster sauce’ that came with it, the crabcakes were decent, but not great: the large, flat patties were made up primarily of lump crab meat (which is what we expected) and an awful lot of binder." ... web site, 2175 Broadway, at 77th Street, 212-362-9238 [openlist | Citysearch]

Big Apple Dining Guide tried Trio ... "The caesar salad ($8) was pretty good. The lettuce was actually the best part. Nice and crispy." ... "The heavily peppered chicken (which was cooked just right) and the salty, flavorful broth and vegetables it sat on was a powerful and tasty combination." ... "onion rings ($5) were downright awful." ... web site, 167 East 33rd Street, 212-685-1001 [MenuPages | openlist | Citysearch]

Amateur Gourmet says the food at Lupa "was very good, not extraordinary, just 'hit the spot' good" ... "the balance of ingredients and dressing [on the salad] was perfect" ... web site, 170 Thompson Street, between Houston and Bleecker Streets, 212-982-5089 [MenuPages | NYT | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch]

Frank Bruni gave 2 stars to Al di La ... "the casunziei, a dish of house-made ravioli ... were impeccably cooked, firm but not hard, pliant but not mushy, with pillowy insides and a rich, vaguely grainy gloss" ... "Over the past year, Al di Là has been preparing a terrific dish of pan-roasted cod, wild striped bass or hake, depending on the night, with hen-of-the-woods mushrooms and plenty of butter." ... (previous review: eat drink one woman (TWIR, August 5, 2005)) ... 248 5th Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-636-8888 [openlist | Gayot | Citysearch] ... and has an article on the "stealth charges" at restaurants with the proliferation of "snacks" and "mid-course" dishes ... ... and also visited Colors ... "The restaurant hasn't been up and running long enough - and I didn't amass enough evidence - for a verdict. Just a few days old, the Colors I visited had many kinks to iron out, in the kitchen and in the dining room. Some food arrived colder than it should have been or under- or overcooked. It was sometimes difficult to get our server's attention." ... (previous review: Leslie Casimir (TWIR, January 6, 2006)) ... 417 Lafayette Street, between Astor Place and East 4th Street, 212-777-8443 [MenuPages]

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Posted January 13, 2006 09:27 AM · Permalink · This Week in Reviews · Comments (1) · TrackBacks (1)

This Week in NYC Reviews - January 6, 2006

Also see our roundup of Michelin 1, 2 and 3 star restaurants with links to reviews ...

For a roundup of DC restaurant reviews from DC food bloggers and media, see This Week in DC Reviews at Hobnob Blog ...

WhiteTrashBBQ reports that "A stuck up chef at Buck's Fishing and Camping in Washington DC has threatened Jason at DC Foodies with a law suit for posting pictures of his dinner on his website." ... D.C. Foodies has removed the post in question, which we believe is unfortunate ... a restaurant that doesn't want its food reviewed or photos of its dishes published is a restaurant that doesn't want your business ...
Leslie Casimir reports on Colors ... a restaurant that 50 workers, "many of whom worked at Windows on the World, now own and operate" ... 417 Lafayette Street, north of East 4th Street, 212-777-8443 (photos from September preview)

Slice says Tosca Cafe has "long been on the Slice 'places to try' list' ... it has "a coal oven, and that's a big deal. Coal-burners are a sort of holy grail in this town, as some of the best and oldest pizzerias use them to produce amazing pizzas. Such ovens are capable of reaching the insanely hot temperatures needed to make a pie crisp and give it oven spring while still yielding a satisfying chewiness and pliability in the crust." ... web site, 4038 East Tremont Avenue, Bronx, 718-239-3300

Pascale Le Draoulec gives 2 stars to Gradisca ... and liked the "pesto crowning four prosciutto-wrapped bundles of creamy buffalo mozzarella" ... "ravioli filled with buffalo ricotta and fresh herbs and drenched in a butter and sage sauce" ... "tummy-rubbing 'parmigiania' terrine of zucchini, eggs and mozzarella slathered with tomato puree and parmigiano." ... 126 West 13th Street, between 6th and 7th Avenues, 212-691-4886 [MenuPages | NYT | openlist | Gayot | Citysearch]

Robert Sietsema writes that "A handful of dishes are stunning" at Marrackech ... "while the rest are bland and undistinguished, from a cuisine that must be counted among the world's most exciting. Traditional lamb tajine ($16) is one of the stunners" ... as is "kefta tajine ($11), miniature lamb meatballs in a subtle tomato sauce, made extravagant by a pair of sunny-side-up eggs perched on top." ... 144 Hicks Street, Brooklyn, 718-855-2633

Joshua Bernstein had breakfast at Down South Cafe ... "The buttery eggs are richer than Bloomberg, while the sausage is cooked to a blackened carrot crunch. A mini-mountain of grits is capped by matching, egg yolk–size pats of butter." ... 349 Lewis Avenue (also Dr. Sandy F Ray Blvd.), between Halsey and Hancock Streets, Brooklyn, 718-574-5889 [Village Voice]

Veal Cheeks has a humorous post about Alice's Tea Cup, Chapter Two ... for brunch, "We selected Alice's Curious French Toast (oh, what a title that): "French toast bites with apple-cinnamon tea, baked bread pudding style, attacked with fruit coulis, vanilla cream anglais and syrupy sweet stuff." I can not possibly capture the essence of this establishment with more precision than does the title of this dish. This description is from the webpage, the menu claims that it contains "apple-brandy tea," an image that provoked a few moments of wry amusement before I came to wonder about the fruit coulis attacking defenseless French toast. That bites. As served, the dish was a glorious, if discordant, symphony of the candied and the sticky." ... 156 East 64th Street, at Lexington Avenue, 212-486-9200 [Citysearch]

Peter Meehan says that La Conquita has "the best rice and beans in Lower Manhattan. White rice and yellow rice; red beans and black beans: order one color of one and another of the other, opt for the sweet fried plantains and the vinegar onions. All of it will cost only $4. For $2 more you can get meat on top of the rice and beans (nearly two pounds of nourishment for $6)." ... 236 Lafayette Street, between Prince and Spring Streets, 212-226-9835

Twenty bucks a day thinks Burger Joint "is good, but I’m puzzled as to the cult that worships at its wood-paneled altar. The best thing about it may well have been the speed with which the burgers, fries, and shake were delivered"... web site,